Putting the gas tank back in place

[PTP]

PTP, a little fule spillage, huh?

No fuel spilled...lets just say gas tanks don't bounce very well. I learned the hard way about 8 years ago.

Now when a tank comes off any bike that I'm working on, it goes on the floor...but never on the bare concrete. I always throw a towel down first for the tank to sit on.

PTP

 

[PTP]

One thing I noticed when someone was doing an '06 -- don't think it was dale as he already had a problem even saying "Throttle Body Sync" at the time - - was...

someone removed their tank on the '06. Don't remember why they did - but they took it off. I think the added ease of being able to readily see the vacuum caps and easier access to them - probably made it worthwhile removing the tank. Since most of the work is already done - it doesn't present much additional effort.

With two people - you might just have one person LIFT the tank providing that easier access - then you don't have to worry about putting it on the floor and kicking it or disconnecting vacuum lines or anything else.

One thing that might be cool to do - don't know if it would work - would be to cut the jiffy pop appropriately - allowing it to be folded back. you would have to seal the cuts with something appropriate that would allow you to seal/re-seal frequently. giving you easier access to the throttle bodies. then you could just fold back without taking off the t-bar, etc.

Not sure that this would actually work, but it might be something to think about. How often do you have to do a tbs, anyway?

Removing the tank makes it easy to get at everything...removing the T-bar is a 60 second exercise. Folding the insulation over is a shortcut that a dealer would do. If this is DIY situation I see no reason not to do it the correct way. While everything is out of the way, take five minutes for a complete inspection of everything under the tank.

If I were to pull a tank and see the insulation bent, I'd have to assume that shortcuts were taken everywhere on the bike. That would be a sure sign of a DPO.

PTP

 

[tripletango]

Know this may not help unless you got a corbin for the 06. Any way for what it is worth.

Same frigging problem and all I am doing is loosening and lifting the tank to see where all the wires for the gps, escort etc will run out of sight.

Go to re bolt tank and the holes are quarter inch off. Ok so how to get the mothers lined up.

Push like hell and the tank barely moves.

Oh yea the saddle needs to be shoved hard forward to engage. Put the trim back on and shoved like mad and got the saddle in the requisite holes.

Got on the bike and bout busted me knackers shoving the tank forward.

Any way after dry shagging the tank finally got insertion of the first bolt.

Having got my rocks off with that the second sucker was duck soup.

 

[Warchild]

I wouldn't necessarily call it a PITA though.

Neither would I.

What I did say is that it's a PITA compared to previous model years, is all. It's still not a hard job.... it's just a lot easier on pre-'06 models.

 

[v65]

Couldn't be easier

 

[MotorSWATCop]

I did a TBS (600 mile service) on my 06 this past Wednesday. It was the first time I had ever done one. I lifted the tank and propped it with a 10" piece of 2X4 and tied it off to the back rack w/ soft cord. The only throttle body I had any problem getting to was the #2 because it was under a bunch of plumbing. I did remove the T-Bar and heat shield completely (2 minutes max). It gave me a lot more room to work. One throttle body was out of sync (#1) by a fair margin. Brought it to spec and buttoned up. Trust me; if I can do this an ape can!

NOTE: Another board member suggested running some fuel line from the vacuum nipples and capping them off above the heat shield. This would allow very easy connection to the Motion Pro w/o near as much removal of parts. I may give that a try on my next TBS. I always get this kind of advice once I have finished! (See ape comment above) :stunned:

 

[dcarver]

For the long haul, could a feller buy a used / crashed 06 tank, make some extenders for the electicals / hoses then place the tank in the shop rafters for super-ease of use? Not even use the stock tank at all?

 

[mdisher]

For the long haul, could a feller buy a used / crashed 06 tank, make some extenders for the electicals / hoses then place the tank in the shop rafters for super-ease of use? Not even use the stock tank at all?

Brilliant !

 

[FJRMGM]

"Yes, you have to take the heat shield blanket OFF, and unplug the fuel pump, and gauge wires from the tank (which route through it) to take it off. I removed the bolt from the back of the tank, and really got the tank out of the way to do this.

I wouldn't necessarily call it a PITA though. But then I haven't done a pre-06."

This sounds like a PITA compared to how easy it is on the pre-06's

 

[sleddoc]

I helped Warchild do about 8-10 '05's at WFO, he did mention the '06 was a PITA compared to the '05.
A fuller tank makes it harder when it is only you, but not impossible.

Agree with all that the rear hinge/pivot bolt has to be loosened (but not removed) to align the top two near the stem.

You '06 owners, what's different?

Is it the heat shield blanket thingy that gets in the way.

Does the tank really have to come off (completely off) :blink:

I completely removed the tank on my 06 to lighten the throttle spring and didn't have any problem putting it back on. ? On the front mount the threaded fixed holes lines up at the far edge of the elongated holes in the mounting plate, the easiest way to put the tank back on is to slide the 12mm rear pivot bolt in place but leave the nut off, then set the tank down in place and then pull the 12mm pivot bolt at the rear of the tank and slide the tank carefully forward and get the two front bolts threaded but leave them loose so you can slide the tank back as far as possible and then slide in the pivot bolt in the rear. This way you will not have to worry about cross threading the two front bolts.

 

[FJRocket]

Well, Jay, did you get it back on?

I think the '06 tank is easier to remove/replace than the earlier models. Easy to take out 2 bolts at the front, nut and bolt where it swings at the back, then disconnect the two electric plugs and the "leak...s a litttle... proof" fuel line plug and take the tank completely off.

I can remove the screw ("rivet") on the heat shield then coax it out rearwards without removing the T-bar, but of course the tank has to be removed. My shield is now shaken, not stirred. Really, no worse for the wear functionally. And yes, a needlenose or a nice long pair of hemostats works great to remove the lil caps and spring clips.

Have you guys been doing TBS on '06 without completely removing the tank? Wondering how you get the shield out of the way to get down in there. Oh, I get it, you remove the T-bar then pull the heat shield out from the front (or just fold it back), with all the lines still connected.

 

[Cal24Master]

I helped Warchild do about 8-10 '05's at WFO, he did mention the '06 was a PITA compared to the '05.
A fuller tank makes it harder when it is only you, but not impossible.

Agree with all that the rear hinge/pivot bolt has to be loosened (but not removed) to align the top two near the stem.

You '06 owners, what's different?

Is it the heat shield blanket thingy that gets in the way.

Does the tank really have to come off (completely off) :blink:

The tank doesn't lift as high without unbolting the rear, but it isn't really that big a deal. I removed the t-bar, it is only three bolts, and I don't want to damage the heat shield. Getting to the #2 rubber cap is kind of tricky. If you haven't done it before and don't know where to look, removing the tank might be helpfull. I used a long needle nose pliars and got it done pretty easy. Other than that, it is just like the earlier ones.

Tom

 

[Dickf]

I did one weeks ago on my '06 AE, and recall it being very easy. Yes, the plastic wrap (small fairing) around the back of the gas tank comes off. front and (I think) rear bolts from the tank, and then I used a rubber bungee from the back of the bike to the top of the takn to lift it up. Pleanty of room to remove the T bar, then the tank electrical plugs that trap (pass through) the foil shield, then the foil shield. A pair of hemostats make pulling the rubber caps pretty easy. If there is enough gas in the tank, you can fire it up and adjust the TBs.

The shop manual talks about removing the tank, but it isn't necessary. If you do remove the tank, you must reinstall it (or something else) to get the engine to run.

Dick

 

[jayshaw91]

Yep, I got the tank realigned. It just wasn't a good day for maintenance, I guess. Things happen.

I'll be trying the TBS again very soon. Maybe tomorrow!

 

[Blue Thunder]

Yep, I got the tank realigned. It just wasn't a good day for maintenance, I guess. Things happen.
I'll be trying the TBS again very soon. Maybe tomorrow!

I thought I was the only one who had some learning to do with the TBS. I have an 06A and dutifully performed the TBS at 600 miles. It really did not need it as all the carbs were within specs. I adjusted one just slightly. I read where some guys do the sync with just tilting the tank, but on the 06, that does not leave a lot of room to get at #2 and #3. So, I was horsing around with the tank positioning and the wife asked me why it was taking so long. She steps in and holds the tank next to the bike with the gas connected. I quickly removed the foil, the ends, attached the hoses, and started the bike up. The actual sync didn't take long at all, but I needed the wife to hold the tank for me. I did not have to take the T bar off either, but the foil definitely needs to be peeled back. Now, my wife brags how she stepped in and saved the day for me. It's definitely a lot easier job with 2 people.

 

[6mmbr]

06A - had no problems with the tank, just folded up the jiffypop.

..but, I had a hard time holding the 4000 rpm with the throttle. I would slowly advance the throttle and when go to about 3200 would surge past 4000 without any twist of the wrist. It would repeatedly do this. Eventually, had to go past the rpm and drop down on 4000 and could just hold it there. Everything was in sync (1700mi), but it would be difficult for me to keep the rpms constant while adjusting the mercury.

Anyone else with such a "touchy" throttle.

Any suggestions/recommendations etc..