Questions after doing rear tire/brake, lube splines, shifter pivot, etc.

[FordBoy33]

First notable maintenance on the bike for me as the second owner, other than changing oil and final drive fluid. I took advantage of a rear tire change and did some other maintenance while the rear wheel was off to get the new tire mounted. Bike has 46K miles on it. I'm assuming none of this has been done before. Rear pads had either 1/4 or 1/3 left on them, but I went ahead and replaced them with new OEM pads. Also lubed the splines on the drive, wheel, shaft and UV joint with Honda Moly 60. Went ahead and lubed the shifter pivot, too.

When I went to take the slide pins/bolts out of the rear caliper, the front one came out easily, but the rear one stuck a good bit. Turned out it has some threads chewed up on the bolt and in the caliper. Searching on the site, I see that others have experienced this same problem. I was able to get mine back in there securely (before reading about anti-seize, etc.), so I guess I'll deal with it the next time around. Sux, though. I assume this is the first change of those pads at 46K miles.

Anyway, a few questions:

1. The head of the T-50 bolt at the front of the left foot peg (right behind the shifter) is nearly stripped just after this one service. I'd like to replace it with a hex bolt. Is there a standard part somewhere that other owners have used to replace this T-50 bolt? Any thoughts on this?
2. How do you avoid scratching up the top of the right side of the swing arm when removing/reinstalling the bolt that secures the rear brake torque arm? It's fairly tight in there and the head of my socket wrench left some marks.
3. I followed the suggestion to torque the acorn nuts securing the pumpkin to the swing arm after installing the wheel. I may not do that again next time, as it was much harder to torque those nuts with the wheel in place. The top inside nut was darn near impossible to get torqued, and I finally ended up just using a wrench on it by hand. Is there a trick to this? I managed to get the bottom inside one by using a few extensions that placed the torque wrench forward of the tire.

Thanks for any input.

 

[BkrK12]

Quote FordBoy33:

3.I followed the suggestion to torque the acorn nuts securing the pumpkin to the swing arm after installing the wheel. I may not do that again next time, as it was much harder to torque those nuts with the wheel in place. The top inside nut was darn near impossible to get torqued, and I finally ended up just using a wrench on it by hand. Is there a trick to this? I managed to get the bottom inside one by using a few extensions that placed the torque wrench forward of the tire.

Next time, slide the axle through without the rear wheel on and snug up the axle bolt just a little and then torque the acorn nuts. The axle will keep everything aligned and the missing wheel will give you more clearance for the torque wrench.

Dan

 

[rbentnail]

Anyway, a few questions:

1. The head of the T-50 bolt at the front of the left foot peg (right behind the shifter) is nearly stripped just after this one service. I'd like to replace it with a hex bolt. Is there a standard part somewhere that other owners have used to replace this T-50 bolt? Any thoughts on this?

Can't help you here as mine is still OEM. But if I had to replace it I'd look for a stainless steel cap screw. It shouldn't be that big a deal, the "T-50" is the tool designation not the thread designation. The thread is a standard metric thread like any other bolt that size. Heck, you can prolly order a new OEM if you'd like. I usually throw fasteners like that one in with an order from a distributor when I'm getting something else.
 
 

How do you avoid scratching up the top of the right side of the swing arm when removing/reinstalling the bolt that secures the rear brake torque arm? It's fairly tight in there and the head of my socket wrench left some marks.

I use a door wedge. Really, go to your local hardware store a pick up a package of wooden wedges used to plumb door frames. They're like $2.89 for 12. A couple good uses I've found:
- push brake calipers/pads apart right before installing wheel, front or back. The wedge is slightly thicker than our brake rotors, just push it on thru and it separates all the pads at the same time nicely;
- I lay them places, like the right side swing arm, to keep metal tools from scratching paint. They're wedges so they slide out easily instead of pinching like a straight block would.
 
Use your imagination, I bet you can come up with a few uses of your own.
 
 

I followed the suggestion to torque the acorn nuts securing the pumpkin to the swing arm after installing the wheel. I may not do that again next time, as it was much harder to torque those nuts with the wheel in place. The top inside nut was darn near impossible to get torqued, and I finally ended up just using a wrench on it by hand. Is there a trick to this? I managed to get the bottom inside one by using a few extensions that placed the torque wrench forward of the tire.
Thanks for any input.

Simple- I've never torqued them <_< . They're acorn nuts so basically the stud they screw on to bottoms out on the inside of the cap. I put a small dab of antiseize on them and tighten by hand. AFAIK they've never come loose. I say that b/c they're always there the next time I take them off. And I suggest you follow the "torque specs" loosely- many folks have created problems doing them to the letter. I have always generally ignored them but I have also be wrenching for 30+ years so experience kicks in. What I do is tighten something until it feels tight, not grunt on it just tighten it, ride and check it again later. If it's loose then tighten it. If it's tight then I got it right.

 

[Constant Mesh]

I use a simple L-shaped hex key to hold the bolt at the upper end of the caliper rod. Short end into the bolt and long end back down along the swingarm. During loosening the hex key will pivot up and stop against the muffler support bracket. During tightening I place something (plastic spacer) which can be easily removed down between the hex key and the swingarm. As you tighten the nut the hex key will rotate down onto the spacer and swingarm. Once tight you can remove the spacer which loosens the hex key for removal from the bolt head. One could use a hex bit socket with a long bit and stay clear of the swingarm. I have the L-shaped hex key so I use it.

Don't know about a replacement for the "star" headed bolt up front. It's a fairly large diameter bolt which would have a large socket head. They may have wanted a rounded head which would be smaller and less prominent in that location. Max clearance between the bolt head and the shift arm.

For the two times I've had the rear drive off I've always had the wheel off when tightening the four acorn nuts. I just use a simple box end wrench on the nuts. Steel nut on a steel bolt so precise torque is not that much of an issue. I do run the axle through the drive and the swingarm (pinch bolt loose) before I tighten the four nuts just to make sure the drive alignment is correct and the axle's not binding to ensure easy wheel mounting.

With the drive turned on its side in your photo I might have expected some oil to leave through the breather on top. Maybe it's not possible. Maybe it's not a breather?

I haven't removed the caliper bolts you mentioned. Others have noted problems with them. I won't be removing them until it's necessary. Maybe one can apply some penetrating oil to assist in their removal.

 

[SLK50]

#2. I use a long 10" extension to be able to ratchet the nut from the left side of the bike and a hex bit and possibly a 3" extension on the right.

FWIW, that 10" extension is one of the most frequently used tools in my toolbox.

Besides getting at hard to reach fasteners it keeps the ratchet handle away from

easily scratched or dented surfaces.

 

[Chuck35]

I have always generally ignored them but I have also be wrenching for 30+ years so experience kicks in. What I do is tighten something until it feels tight, not grunt on it just tighten it, ride and check it again later. If it's loose then tighten it. If it's tight then I got it right.

30 + year auto tech here too!

They taught us to tighten it till it strips (that "little extra") then back it off 1/4 turn :yahoo:

 

[kaitsdad]

All good advice, even some tips from the collective that will make my life a bit easier. Thanks, Everyone !!

I've had a slide pin stuck in the caliper result being fully stripped threads. Had to replace the entire rear caliper (and the pin) to fix it. The anti-seize is a damn good idea in this location.

This is/was the time to take care of lubing that pesky relay arm - you have to remove all that stuff plus some in order to do it. Based upon what you found and the miles at 46k, I doubt your bike has had it done.

Overall, you've done a very complete job - but I would prepare yourself for the enjoyable, absolutely fun process of removing and replacing the relay arm next time you're in there. This is one of the true joys of FJR ownership.

 

[JamesK]

A little off topic, but looking at your picture, that bike is waaaay too clean for a 46k machine, where those miles done on a dyno or something

 

[FordBoy33]

Thanks for the feedback, everyone!

 

[Constant Mesh]

In your photo the wheel appears to be resting on the brake disc. While the disc is probably the most resilient/toughest part of the wheel I try to avoid applying any force to it except when installing the caliper. It's bolted rigidly to the wheel. It doesn't float like the front discs.

Of course, I've never seen how the tire changing guy handles the wheel. He probably picks it up and sets it on the machine with his hands caressing the disc.