Quick question: Which Mobil1?

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Dan23

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2006
Messages
401
Reaction score
0
Location
NE US
Service SJ? Or something else?

Please, please, no oil controversy. I just want to know which Mobil1 I should buy at the auto parts store today... local WalMarts don't carry a suitable Mobil1.

Thank you in advance. Just a single knowledgible reply will suffice. I tried search...
uhoh.gif


 
Service SJ? Or something else?
Please, please, no oil controversy. I just want to know which Mobil1 I should buy at the auto parts store today... local WalMarts don't carry a suitable Mobil1.

Thank you in advance. Just a single knowledgible reply will suffice. I tried search...
uhoh.gif

2013EngineOilSpecs.jpg


So, API Service class SG and JASO MA are the requirements stated in the owners maual, then you pick the weight based on expected temps.

Which Mobil1 oils meet both of those requirements? The Racing 4T 10W40 is the only one that does, as far as I know.

The JASO standards are to ensure that the oil will work in an application with a wet clutch. None of their automotive oils are tested to a JASO standard. That doesn't mean that you can't successfully use them, just that they did not bother to test it. MAny people use the Mobile 1 automotive oils in their engines with no clutch issues. I have been using the 15W50 in my '05 lately and it works fine.

Just be sure to avoid any oils that have the "Energy Conserving" words on the API doughnut label, like the middle example below

motor-oil-api-donut.png


 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks to both of you for clear, concise replies.

I would not have strayed far off course, as my plan was to find a Mobil1 that is NOT energy conserving. I've always tried to find one that has the upper temp. range of 50, basically not worrying about the lower limit range. My bike is more likely to need that-- sitting in traffic, say-- than the likelyhood of starting and riding below 30 F.

Now it's off to the store to find the right oil.

Thanks again.

 
for many, Shell Rotella Synthetic in the dark blue gallon jug at WalMart is a big bang for the buck

$23 a gallon

those "motorcycle specific" synthetic oils seem to be really expensive...$8 to $10 a quart

 
for many, Shell Rotella Synthetic in the dark blue gallon jug at WalMart is a big bang for the buck$23 a gallon

those "motorcycle specific" synthetic oils seem to be really expensive...$8 to $10 a quart
$14 a liter retail here! (FYI 1 liter = 1 short quart)
smile.png


 
I just put in some Mobil1 15W50 and my FJR is shifting like butter....much smoother than the Yamaha dino oil that was in there.

I have heard that the JASO MA rated oils do protect your cam lobes better than oils without that rating.

I have a friend who's a cycle mechanic and he says that when he does engine work the cam lobes of people who run car oil have flat spots........people that don't run JASO rated oil he claims have more cam lobe issues.

I may switch to that MOBIL1 cycle oil just to be safe...also CASTROL makes a dino cycle oil that is JASO rated just picked up some on sale at AUTOZONE for $3.99 a quart!!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
15-40 WINTER 15-50 in Summer here in PA.

Again advanced Auto had a sale 32.99 5 quarts Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 oil filter. I also received a 10 off coupon for 50 or more spent. I bought 10 quarts and 2 filters for car and the bike for 56 bucks. I just can not see how other then the new Energy Efficient oils, Dino or Synth, can be an issue at 5000 or 6000 mile oil changes, never going to wear or degrade a good oil no matter what flavor in that amount of time. I never reach that on my car as I do not drive it more then 5000 a year so it gets changed on season only.

Run what you like the damn motor does not know or care as long as it is lubricated.

 
I just can not see how other then the new Energy Efficient oils, Dino or Synth, can be an issue at 5000 or 6000 mile oil changes, never going to wear or degrade a good oil no matter what flavor in that amount of time.
granted

for me, it's insurance in case somehow the bike overheats or loses half it's oil or something weird like that

 
I love this thread! Chose to check it out more out of curiosity than anything else. OK, I use Yamalube 20-50 Synthetic. It even has a picture of an FJR13 on the label! Of course, I don't ride much in super low temps like under 30F. I live in Las Vegas, spend a lot of time idling in traffic and the bike sometimes goes to 4 bars on the temp gauge, when the fan goes on. I use the Yamaha filter, but have used Frams in the past in other bikes with no problems ever. Oh yea, I change oil and filter every 5000-6000 miles. Level in the sight glass never changes between oil changes. Even at 6000 miles, the oil that comes out looks GREAT!

 
Zombie thread resuscitation!

I just put in some Mobil1 15W50 and my FJR is shifting like butter....much smoother than the Yamaha dino oil that was in there.
I have heard that the JASO MA rated oils do protect your cam lobes better than oils without that rating.

I have a friend who's a cycle mechanic and he says that when he does engine work the cam lobes of people who run car oil have flat spots........people that don't run JASO rated oil he claims have more cam lobe issues.
Your cycle mechanic friend was either pulling your leg or a bull-*******. JASO MA rating has nothing to do with protecting cam lobes. The only thing it specifies is it limits the dynamic friction characteristics so that the oil can be used in a wet clutch bike without causing clutch slippage. In essence, JASO MA oils cannot have friction modifiers in the formula that make them too slippery. Technically, a non-JASO MA oil might very well protect a cam lobe better than one that qualifies.

15-40 WINTER 15-50 in Summer here in PA.
The concept is a good one, but the logic and choices are wrong. Being water cooled, the FJR engine runs at very nearly the same temperature once warmed up regardless of the ambient temps. So if you prefer an **W50 oil in the summer go right ahead and run a * * W50 oil in the winter too.

The number that you should consider changing is the first one, as that specifies how easily the oil will flow when cold. So you may want to run 20W50 in Summer and 15W50 in winter. But realistically, you can just run the 15W50 oil year round as the engine will not experience any added wear due to the better flow during hot weather.

All oil is good....some better than others....all oil does not qualify for the JASO MA rating.
True, but... many oils that could qualify as JASO MA do not bother applying for the certification because their target sales is not to motorcyclists. Auto drivers could not care less if the oil is JASO MA since there are no cars around whose engine oil bathes the clutch, The cost of the JASO certification is not free, so that will either drive the price of the oil up or cut into the manufacturers profit margin, neither of which would be desirable.

So to summarize:

Any oil rated JASO MA is OK to use with a wet clutch.

Some oils not rated JASO MA are also OK to use with a wet clutch.

Some oils without JASO MA that happen to include excessive friction modifiers (like those with the "Energy Conserving Star") are not OK to use with wet clutches as you may get excessive clutch slipping under load.

I love this thread! Chose to check it out more out of curiosity than anything else. OK, I use Yamalube 20-50 Synthetic. It even has a picture of an FJR13 on the label! Of course, I don't ride much in super low temps like under 30F. I live in Las Vegas, spend a lot of time idling in traffic and the bike sometimes goes to 4 bars on the temp gauge, when the fan goes on. I use the Yamaha filter, but have used Frams in the past in other bikes with no problems ever. Oh yea, I change oil and filter every 5000-6000 miles. Level in the sight glass never changes between oil changes. Even at 6000 miles, the oil that comes out looks GREAT!
Thanks for dredging up this old thread from the past. There were a few dis-informative replies in it that I failed to notice back when it was running, and they are worth correcting. Obviously, following the manufacturers own brand of recommended oil and filters is a sure way to get the right thing in there.

As the old saying goes... You may be able to find something better, but you won't pay more.
wink.png


 
Last edited by a moderator:
Top