R1 Shift Arm

[145hp]

Hi everyone,

I was wondering if anyone could help me with the R1 shift arm mod?

I just got it and I'm not sure how to install.

Thanks,

Ed.

 

[Pending]

https://p083.ezboard.com/ffjr1300ownersasso...tart=21&stop=36" target="_blank">My Webpage

 

[145hp]

Thanks,

WIll have to wait till she is done at the dealer (8000mi service)

 

[moby one]

R1 shift mod. Help me out here, what advantage is there to the mod?

mo

 

[radman]

It's a shorter arm, results in a faster shift. Don't have to move the foot as far to complete the shift, if in a left turn and shifting, less likely to tap the dirt with yur toe.

 

[RTSR1/FJR]

For even a shorter and stronger arm, look at this. It an arm off of a '98-'99 R1. I use it on my '04 R1. Takes alot of the sponginess out. Only dif is you have to use a longer bolt w/nut for the heim joint due to the arm not being threaded. Arm is much stronger! Stock '04 was bending under racing conditions.

Oh almost forgot, here's the p/n: 5EG-18112-00

 

[kerhrhr]

Hey,

I got my 01' R1 shift arm yesterday, and went ahead and installed it. Had some great help from Mike, thanks Mike. The change out was pretty straight forward, although I did take it a step further than has been described on this site.

I reviewed some information on the FJR1300info.com page about lubricating the pivot points, and the one in particular that came to mind was the shift linkage pivot point that is directly behind the Left Foot peg/Cover Plate. It is directly behind the "bubble" on the foot peg, and is an intrical part of the foot peg. I had read that it was bone dry from the factory, so I decided that while I was in there already, I'd check mine out, and mine definately was. Something that I didn't realize was that the sidestand is directly bolted to the frame via the two bottom bolts of the Left Foot peg/Cover Plate, so when I removed it, down came the kickstand. Not a problem, since I was doing the changeout while the bike was on the center stand.

When I fully removed the Foot Peg, I noticed that there was a substantial amount of what appeared to be grey High Temp bearing grease spattered all over the back of the Foot Peg. Looking for the source, I found that the front U-joint of the drive shaft had the grease all over it too. I wiped away the grease off of the Foot Peg, and looked for any sort of damage at the U-joint that would have made it sling grease everywhere down there, but I didn't see any.

At any rate, during reassembly, I installed the shift arm to the shift linkage, with the allen head bolt facing the engine, and then reinstalled the whole assembly (sidestand, shift linkage, foot peg) all at once. One further note that I hadn't seen anyone write about was the alignment of the shift lever with the cast "tick marks" on the foot peg/cover plate. I didn't even notice the tick marks until almost completely done with the change out, but it worked out anyway.

Now for the info you've been waiting for. How well does it work? Well, in my opinion, it is a definate improvement. Most of the "clunky" sound that used to come from the tranny happened during low RPM shifts in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears, at least for me. Now I would say that its much more quiet than it used to be, at low RPMs. During a higher load, the "clunk" is gone. It almost shifts like an automatic, nearly undetected. I would say that after racking up some more miles, I only have 1300 miles on it now, and when I eventually shift to Shell Rotella T/STP combo, the "clunk" will be a distant memory at all RPM ranges. Thanks to all who have given insight/input on this mod. It really does help.

Aaron

 

[radman]

The clunk will never go away. Nothing will help to reduce it as much as technique. Believe me.

 

[BlueWing]

Never mind...some of you guys type faster than my brain works! My question is all cleared up. :blink:

 

[kerhrhr]

Hey Radman,

After having said it would all me a distant memory after more miles, and using the Shell oil combo, and of course riding it today, I have come to the conclustion that you are probably right. Technique has come into play more than once. I haven't made the switch on the oil yet, and obviously don't have that many more miles on it, but there have been times when I must have shifted just right, at the right RPM, or something, because I have moments when all seems perfect. No tranny noise..........nothin', and then other times, "clunk, clunk, clunk....".

It has gotten me frustrated on a number of occasions. The harder I try to stop it from making noise, the more "out of sync" my shifting feels. I definately feel the tension when I am riding........I've tried paying attention to when I shift, i.e. what RPM, how I manipulate the clutch, etc. and make mental notes of what I did right, when there is no noise. I guess it's just going to take time...........

Aaron

 

[FJRMGM]

at 12k miles on my '05 the clunk is waaaaay less than in lower mileage.

Switching to Shell Rotella T and 8 oz of STP oil treatment does help considerably, along with the R1 shifter linkage.

I was just noticing how smooth mine shifts on the way to work this morning.

 

[teerex51]

8 oz of STP oil treatment

Mike,

can you give me more details about this STP product?

Thanks

Stef

 

[radman]

Stef-this stuff

The way to make a quiet, smooth, fast shift is to begin moving the shift lever just as the clutch pull starts. Do it right, and you will find the shift is done before you thought possible. It's all in the timing, with practice it will become habit, and clunks will be the exception, rather than the rule.

 

[teerex51]

Much obliged, Rad :good:

Stef

 

[twowheelnut]

Stef-this stuff

The way to make a quiet, smooth, fast shift is to begin moving the shift lever just as the clutch pull starts.  Do it right, and you will find the shift is done before you thought possible.  It's all in the timing, with practice it will become habit, and clunks will be the exception, rather than the rule.

I was having a beer at my local watering hole a couple of months ago when in walked (lumbered?) restaurant regular, Andy Granatelli, early for his dinner date with his wife, Dolly. He took up a position to my right at the bar and though he recognized me, we've never met and he introduced himself to me with a nod and a hearty hand shake. We chatted about cars and racing with Chef James, who came out to greet Mr. Indy, and the conversation turned to STP. Chef made a few, um, choice comments about the stuff and Andy just smiled and said, "Yep, that 'stuff' made me a lot money!" And with a wink of his eye, he stood up and turned to join Dolly who had just strolled through the door.

 

[Toecutter]

Oops. Wrong thread. Meant to be here.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

The old story about STP: it was an un-wanted substance called "paratac" (or, something like that?) that was removed from base-stock oils in the refining process. Andy Granatelli helped dispose of barrels of the stuff (by putting it in little blue/red cans) and made Million$.

 

[black mamba]

Hey Kerhrhr....

I share your frustration about achieving smooth shifts. Those that suggest that technique plays a big role in this matter are right..... to a degree. However, I've been riding for over 40 years and have owned a fair number of bikes and I find the FJR to be the most difficult of all in trying to establish a smooth shifting rythm. It seems that on all my other bikes, a smooth, clean shifting pattern just naturally developed. I find, with the FJR, I'm allways having to make a conscious effort to achieve what should be a second-nature result. Shifting quickly, with a one-motion move ( pulling in the clutch and working the shift lever at the same time ), helps the most but a clean, not-have-to-think-about-it shifting routine is still illusive to me. A small price to pay, though, for getting to ride the best bike in the world.

 

[Bike Effects]

I had a friend of mine who is a CHP ride my FJR yesterday. His first comment was how smooth the shifting was. I use synthetic oil and have the R1 shifter arm. Shifting was pretty good before the mods too.