Randy Horn Install spun out of control

[Floridave]

I've got a wiring harness from Randy for my Fiam Blaster horns. I'm working on the install, and wonder what else needs to come off before I try to fit the horns on?

:lol:

Ok, seriously, this project did start off as just installing a pair of horns. But I really wanted to get in there and see just what I had under all that plastic. I did all this over Memorial Day weekend. I've only had the bike short while, but am loving it.

The bike had 15,100 miles when I tore it down, which is getting close the the 16,000 maintenance so I took care of some of that, and I was also worried about the grounding plugs under the tank that some have had melt. I had some outlets and stuff just sitting to be installed, so rather that do a little here and a little there, I just dug in and did it all. Everything went back together and I've ridden about 1200 miles on it since I finished this.

List of items completed...

Install Horns using Randy’s wiring harness.

Disable Auto Windshield Retract

Checked/Greased/Secured 7 of the grounding connectors

(4 under tank/3 behind front cowling)

Installed Signal Dynamics LED Voltmeter

Changed spark plugs to CR8EIX iridium

Installed Powerlet

Installed standard 12V outlet

Installed Battery Tender pigtail

Installed Driving Lights with 3 position switch

( On with bike power, Off, On with high beams)

Changed Oil/Filter

Removed glove box solenoid to completely disable lock (I much prefer this, can open the box anytime)

Did hitch pin secure connection for both panniers

Dual HyperLites on rear

TopBox installed, I built my own adapter for the Bestem topbox bracket.

A few notes from all the things I worked on...

On the horn install, (Fiam something Blasters), same ones that Randy shows in his pics for the install on the 2006 model. I used the FIAM supplied brackets, and did not need to cut any plastic. Install was very simple, worked perfectly. Harness was great, I had everything I needed to build my own, but I'm glad I got his. Quality.

Signal Dynamics LED voltmeter module. I’ve had this for a while, and removed it from a prior bike before selling that bike. This install, I had the opportunity to learn a lot about how it really works, since I’ve always been a little skeptical of it. When first deciding where to put it, I was testing it with various wires on the bike. I was getting bad readings, sometime green, but going to yellow, red, blinking red. It was doing all sorts of things when turn signals were turned on, high beams, the horn being honked, when just about ANYTHING was changed that used electric power, it bounced to yellow or blinking, both with just electrics on, or with bike at idle or even revved. It worked fine when direct to battery or with wires right at the battery. I finally decided to get the multimeter out, and get some ‘real’ readings. Turns out, the voltmeter was performing exactly to the specs.

Flashing Green - Voltage Above 15.25 VDC

Steady Green - Above 12.9

Steady Amber - Above 12.6

Steady Red - Above 12.1

Flashing Red - Below 12 VDC

On the various wires I was using to test, the windshield retract, glovebox, grip heater, running ligts, etc. ( all on left side of bike), I was getting weak readings, even with the bike running. Never saw 13, most from high 11’s to 12.5, depending on what I was turning on or off, idle or not. Well, now I knew the voltmeter was working perfectly, and apparently had just informed me of a bad battery or electrical problem. I decided to move on to other things for the night.

Two things I did after that, I opened up and checked the 4 ground connectors under the tank, (they all looked perfect), but I greased them, wrapped the front right floppy one with tape, and tied it down so it wouldn’t move. Secondly, I also had put some double sided tape on under the battery terminal nuts, to hold them up in place. I decided that might not be a good idea since it reduced that contact area. I notice when I removed the positive lug, it wasn’t really tight, not real loose, but not really snugged like it should be.

The next morning, with everything put back together, that problem was gone, I’m not 100% sure what it was, probably the batter lug/tape combo. I’m getting 13 plus volts when running, and turn on and off everything voltage stays on all the wires I tested, including driving lights(according to multimeter), and the LED voltmeter stays green. ( I did leave the key on, with engine off for a minute or two with driving lights and hazards on, and it went yellow pretty quickly.) Long story, but I did get the opportunity to know just what’s going on if I start seeing colors other than GREEN on the LED.

On the grounding connectors that some on this forum have had melt or come close to it. Mainly front right side of tank. I found 4 of those under the tank, 3 in the instruments. I checked, dielectric greased all of them, and taped or zip tied them if they were hanging. All of mine looked perfect, no corrosion. ( when I was doing all of this, I actually dielectric greased ALL of the connections that I worked with on final re-assembly.)

All of the things I installed was stuff I had removed from other bikes before selling, or I had bought them for other bikes and never installed them. The driving lights are cheapy $30 55watt driving from Advanced Auto. They will be great as a daytime “don’t pull out in front if me” attention getter. I’ve never had driving lights, and currently am not in a situation where I need super reaching night lights. I wired these with relay and Always On/Off/High Beam On and set it up so I can easily pull the leads out of the front vent, and replace them without getting into the bike AT ALL. Wiring them to pass under the Gerald bracket, and right into the front vent is just excellent. Couldn’t be cleaner.

I connected a blue LED from Radio Shack below the driving light switch(beside the heated grip control) to indicate they are on. The Voltmeter is also shown.

The Luggage Pins

Scary drilling the plastic for the outlets...

Worked out ok though...

Rear fender shortened, top box installed, locking quick release.

Driving Lights

Reflective Rear

I feel a lot more comfortable with the bike now that I've got this far into it. Lovin' the FJR!

 

[Jagermeister]

Damn.

Why don'tcha install a Christmas tree on the luggage rack!

 

[UselessPickles]

I used the FIAM supplied brackets, and did not need to cut any plastic. Install was very simple, worked perfectly.

Are you sure you have good clearance between the horns and the forks? Pay attention to where stuff would be if the forks were compressed while the handlebars are turned.

I shortened the FIAMM brackets, drilled new holes in them, bent them a bit, trimmed the inside black fairing pieces and trimmed some excess plastic off the horns themselves to get the horns tucked away nicely. I am 100% confident that my horns and forks will never meet:

 

[Floridave]

I used the FIAM supplied brackets, and did not need to cut any plastic. Install was very simple, worked perfectly.

Are you sure you have good clearance between the horns and the forks? Pay attention to where stuff would be if the forks were compressed while the handlebars are turned.

I WAS sure, until your post. I checked that there was no problem turning stop to stop, but compressed? No, I didn't do that, maybe I wasn't thorough enough in my checkout. I will do that again, and get some photos.

Thanks Useless.

 

[worldbound4now]

Turn the fork stop to stop and look down from the top along the fork tubes. You should be able to visualize whether or not there is impact potential. If you're having trouble, zip-tie a string to the outer (lower) fork tube and pull a straight line up to the upper portion of the fork (where you adjust your rebound damping). This should give you good visual to potential impacts.

signed.... a victim of the 1st generation Superbrace error that split my front brake lines on impact because I had too little preload. Paranoia helped me install my horns correctly.

 

[Floridave]

I don't know guys, I'm turning lock to lock, sighting down the forks from the top, and I don't see any way they could hit the horns. I've looked from the bottom and I have pleny of room as far as I can tell. Next day or so I'll take some pics and let you see what you think.

What I did was use the metal bar/brackets they supplied. Mounted them in the same place as the factory horns, then I did bend/twist the bracket inward, to turn and pull the horn in to the plastic and radiator as close as possible, but I did not cut anything.

Also, I was able to do all this with NO plastic on the bike, so I could really get in there and set them like I wanted. The opening for the horns point straight down, and I think the longer bracket gets them farther away from the forks than if they sat up higher.

Actually, you can see the horn in my pic of the stripped bike on front. I'm not 100% if that was the final resting place, but you can see how the horn is dropped a little lower, and turned in to match the curve of the radiator.

In any case, I'll get some pics so you can see what i've got.

Turn the fork stop to stop and look down from the top along the fork tubes. You should be able to visualize whether or not there is impact potential. If you're having trouble, zip-tie a string to the outer (lower) fork tube and pull a straight line up to the upper portion of the fork (where you adjust your rebound damping). This should give you good visual to potential impacts.
signed.... a victim of the 1st generation Superbrace error that split my front brake lines on impact because I had too little preload. Paranoia helped me install my horns correctly.

 

[Greg E.]

I don't believe that there will be an interference problem unless you add a fork brace; then there will be a problem.

-GSE-

 

[FJR Flyer]

I did the same install with the FIAMM horns, used their brackets, no cutting or modding. Just a little tweak bending. Made my own harness, though.

Impressed with how deep you jumped into the bike.

 

[Floridave]

Damn.
Why don'tcha install a Christmas tree on the luggage rack!

Hey if it keeps one of our wonderful Florida drivers off my ***, it's worth it! AND I find the top box much more useful that a Christmas tree, though it's an idea I'll kick around come December. B)

Below is a pair of pictures I took, identical setup. Lights were on, not brake lights, just tail lights. It was night, and raining(which is what the spotty reflections are, rain in the flash), bike is parked in my driveway about 20-25 yards in front of my truck with low beams on, plus camera flash. I am standing against the bumper between the truck headlights. Left side, the bags are removed and sitting beside each side of the bike so you don't see the reflective tape from Alex. (you actually can see a white round decal on the front of the bags showing) I coverted the other reflective tape with a towel.

Right side is uncovered and setup like on the road.

Right side bike LOOKS like I'm closer, but I'm not, EXACT same setup. Compare the size of the taillights, or exhaust.

It would be a pretty big difference on a rainy night at speed, especially with the movement of the bike and helmet.

 

[FJR Flyer]

I also have the Bestem trunk. Put in a brake light flasher, got it off of ebay for about $11. Flashes for 5 secs then goes steady.

 

[Randy]

Hard to beleive as thorough as you were that you forgot to put the clutch lever back on. Damn rookies.

j/k - nice work. Amazing how many times small projects have turned into 'while i have it apart...'

 

[fangjkf]

You mentioned a 3-way switch for the lighing. Curious to know what type/brand of switch you used? I am looking for the same thing but not satisfied with choices so far.

 

[Floridave]

You mentioned a 3-way switch for the lighing. Curious to know what type/brand of switch you used? I am looking for the same thing but not satisfied with choices so far.

I'm not sure brand, but it's was a Marine toggle switch from a boating store. Has a black rubber top. 3 position, on/off/on

with 3 poles to connect to. Very easy to mount, just drill a hole. Very easy to work with gloves.

The blue LED indicator was an afterthought, glad I did it now. That was just an LED and resistor from Radio Shack.

Searches on here will find some really nice rectangular switches, but I didn't have that much real estate with the heated grip contoller.

 

[luvtoride]

Reflective Rear

If you'd like to light up the rear just a tad more, consider putting SOLAS tape under the useless reflector of the top case.

I did that. Works wonders!

BTW... good job.

 

[Floridave]

Yea, I love the Solas tape, I'm out of it now used my last bit on a horse trailer, but the bright white tape you see above the reflector is very close to the same.

I haven't decided what to do with the topcase yet. The whole red/orange piece going around it is pretty crappy. I'd like to cover it with something, just haven't decided yet. I've resisted wiring the topcase, just because i want to be able to easily take it off and not have a wire from the bike loose. I do have dual Hyperlights that flash on braking, so I'm not too worried about the topcase lights. If I did wire it, I'm probaby make my own up with some LED's.

On another note, I used several products from vendors on this forum and want to say they were all top notch products. Things like this are part of what makes this site SO valuable to us FJR owners. To get these first rate quality, but very small market, niche products that no big company is going to manufacture, made just for us with personal customer service.

RANDY HORN WIRING HARNESS

Randy's horn wiring harness was well worth the money. I actually had relays and everything I needed to build my own, and could have easily done so, but with the reviews I heard hear, I figured it would just be the easy way to go. An absolutly top quality product and workmanship. I'm glad I got it, and in fact, when I wired my driving lights, power outlets, etc, I did by best to build up to his standards. Definetly improved MY workmanship by copying him. The horns work great. Thanks Randy.

ALEX REAL INDUSTRIES

Alex's at Real Industries reflective decals on the bags are excellent. I wanted the red, but asked to have the very narrow strip that goes beside it on the lid in black. In addition, I got the side pannier black reflective decals and I removed the side marker blocks off the bags. I really like the FJR and tuning fork logo, makes it all look like it belongs on there. I can understand some not liking the red, I am much more concerned with function and being seen than being 'pretty', the red is obvious day or night, rain or shine, but if the red is offensive, you should really consider the black, with one or both of the logos, it actually looks BETTER than the plain black plastic luggage. And the black reflecting makes you look SO much bigger at night or in heavy rain when people are using lights.

Just a minor issue, when they were packaged and sent to me, the red printed decal and reflective black side decal were placed face to face. so one of the side decals picked up some of the tuning fork logo. Just a mention from me, and I wasn't asking for a replacment, just letting him know that it happened to prevent future issues for him with people pickier than I. Alex immediatly replaced both that red and black side decal, no questions asked. A good product is great and this is, but good service makes it even better. thanks.

Garauld LIGHT BRACKETS

Garauld's driving light brackets. Not a lot to say about them except they fit perfect, absolutly NO issue with anything. Install could not have been any easier.

They are working great, lights seem very stable, they are made to compliment the bike, and not just something stuck on as an afterthought.

Reflective Rear

If you'd like to light up the rear just a tad more, consider putting SOLAS tape under the useless reflector of the top case.

I did that. Works wonders!

BTW... good job.