Re: '06 Handlebar Risers

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i agree, i moved my bars back a few days ago, really wasnt much wiggle room left. i didnt explore the wires any further to see if any slack could be had, but unless there is some additional length i dont see how risers will be doable. i do like the full back position much better, that together with the grip puppies has really helped my discomfort. now just have to address the saddle...

a possibility to skyway...???

assuming there is some slack there, could it be possible to create block that used stock mounts, then install new stud from underside of block and tapped hole for allen. that would move bars up and back, could also retain stock adjustablility with some pins installed on underside of new block.

just a my .02

tony

 
I will have to get next to an 06 again and investigate exactly how far the bars can be moved before the cables become an issue.

 
Two quick questions, Skyway...

1.) Have you conceived of any possible way where some sort of adapter cna be built that allows one ot adjust the "sweep-back" of the bars. It is not the height that's my problem. It's the angle. I would love to be able to "straighten 'em out" - i.e. rotate them forward slightly to straighten out my wrists.

2.) If not, would it be possible to make some clamp assemblies that bolted on where the original bars do on a 2006, but allow you to use conventional handlebars, or even Renthal or Answer tapered aluminum bars - like Ricardo Kuhn does here:

https://www.motomacondo.com/protapers.html

https://www.motomacondo.com/protaper_roadster.html

Thanks!

Dallara

 
Two quick questions, Skyway...
1.) Have you conceived of any possible way where some sort of adapter cna be built that allows one ot adjust the "sweep-back" of the bars. It is not the height that's my problem. It's the angle. I would love to be able to "straighten 'em out" - i.e. rotate them forward slightly to straighten out my wrists.

2.) If not, would it be possible to make some clamp assemblies that bolted on where the original bars do on a 2006, but allow you to use conventional handlebars, or even Renthal or Answer tapered aluminum bars - like Ricardo Kuhn does here:

https://www.motomacondo.com/protapers.html

https://www.motomacondo.com/protaper_roadster.html

Thanks!

Dallara
The rotation method may be the only way to achieve some rise with or without cable issues.

Funny you should mention the replacement bar assemblies in the links, Ive done exactly this for a friend in the past on a TLR1000 in conjuction with a Scotts steering dampener. SS lines were required due to the greater distance involved, but that was it. Only afterward could you appriciate what it did for that bikes handling while navigating over Hwy108 and Hwy4 Sierra Passes. :dribble:

 
I'll repeat an earlier question, as I never saw it answered before (though feel free to pelt me with rotten fruit if I simply missed it); Would it be possible to design risers that allow you to change the 'sweep' of the bars? My right wrist gets a little painful at times and would prefer to have the bars angled out a bit more, not so tucked in...

 
So, Skyway...

Please tell me you are saying that you CAN come up with a way, or piece, that allows you to rotate the bars forward and take about 10 to 15 degrees of sweep out of them!!! :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo:

Man, if that's the case I'll sign up for a set right now - paid in advance! :clapping:

After my experience with Ricardo Kuhn's bars I am convinced that it is the excessive sweep in the stock FJR bars that is causing me hand and wrist issues.

Even if what you came up with was a completely different arrangement that used bar clamps, and therefore standard or tampered handlebars, too... That would be terrific, and just as good for me. As long as the height didn't change too much, and the bars were actually being rotated forward as they were brought back closer to the rider, then it would stand ot reason no changes in cable or hose lengths should be necessary - i.e. as long as the tip end of the bars ended up in about the same place, with only sweep removed, then none of the cable/hose distances have really changed, right?

Thanks!

Dallara

 
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