Rear Axle removal

[Fred W]

Here's what I do: I put the bike up onto the center stand on top of a piece of 5/4" lumber (decking material). This is mainly to make it easy to get the wheel out from under the fender once the axle is out.

Then I put a piece of 2x8, about 4 foot long, lengthwise under the rear wheel. Then I take a small 2x4 block, about 6 inches long and wedge it cross wise under the 2x8 to form an adjustable angle ramp. Slide the 2x4 further under the 2x8 ramp until you get the desired lifting tension.

Now with the weight of the wheel off the axle it should be easy peasy to get that axle shaft out.

Sorry, no pitchers! :blink:

 

[FJRBluesman]

Not to be a smart arse, but.... The nut is off, correct?

We're puzzled why it would be so hard to remove.

 

[dsmack]

Here's what I do: I put the bike up onto the center stand on top of a piece of 5/4" lumber (decking material). This is mainly to make it easy to get the wheel out from under the fender once the axle is out.
Then I put a piece of 2x8, about 4 foot long, lengthwise under the rear wheel. Then I take a small 2x4 block, about 6 inches long and wedge it cross wise under the 2x8 to form an adjustable angle ramp lever. Slide the 2x4 further under the 2x8 ramp until you get the desired lifting tension leverage and lift.

Now with the weight of the wheel off the axle it should be easy peasy to get that axle shaft out.

Sorry, no pitchers! :blink:

Fred ~ There, I "fixed" it for you... Archimedes is our friend! :clapping:

Your description is an excellent example of an application of leverage that should simplify the job tremendously.

My only additional suggestion would be to have a helper hold the front brake applied to prevent levering the bike forward off the stand, with predictable results... :glare:

Right On! (and Ride On as well... B) )

Don

 

[Fred W]

Here's what I do: I put the bike up onto the center stand on top of a piece of 5/4" lumber (decking material). This is mainly to make it easy to get the wheel out from under the fender once the axle is out.
Then I put a piece of 2x8, about 4 foot long, lengthwise under the rear wheel. Then I take a small 2x4 block, about 6 inches long and wedge it cross wise under the 2x8 to form an adjustable angle ramp lever. Slide the 2x4 further under the 2x8 ramp until you get the desired lifting tension leverage and lift.

Now with the weight of the wheel off the axle it should be easy peasy to get that axle shaft out.

Sorry, no pitchers! :blink:

Fred ~ There, I "fixed" it for you... Archimedes is our friend! :clapping:

Your description is an excellent example of an application of leverage that should simplify the job tremendously.

My only additional suggestion would be to have a helper hold the front brake applied to prevent levering the bike forward off the stand, with predictable results... :glare:

Right On! (and Ride On as well... B) )

Don

Thanks for the amplifying comments, Don. The reason I chose the words I did (ramp vs lever) is that I really don't yank up on the "lever" portion and don't use the 2x4 block as a fulcrum point. I didn't want to give those ideas. But you are correct that in reality it is a simple lever (with the fulcrum being the end of the 2x8) and the 2x4 block being used to exert the leverage.

Good catch with the thought of the potential for rolling forward off of center stand. Many folks use a strap or other device of some sort to lock the center stand forward while doing wheel maintenance, to prohibit any such gravitational excursions of their bike during such wrassling about. I have just used care in the past, but should really think up some better center stand lock for future use.

 

[Rob R]

After repeated attempts of whacking on hardwood against nut, and twisting axle, it finally came out. I can see no evidence of grease or dry grease on the axle. The axle has some surface rust that I will need to polish off before greasing. Since this is my first rear tire change I never found the time to disassemble to check. While wheel is off I will do the shaft splines and other maintenance. This sure was a PIA, however not as much as reattaching the return throttle cable.

Thanks for all your help.

Rob

 

[Fred W]

After repeated attempts of whacking on hardwood against nut, and twisting axle, it finally came out. I can see no evidence of grease or dry grease on the axle. The axle has some surface rust that I will need to polish off before greasing. Since this is my first rear tire change I never found the time to disassemble to check. While wheel is off I will do the shaft splines and other maintenance. This sure was a PIA, however not as much as reattaching the return throttle cable.
Thanks for all your help.

Rob

Wow. A 2006 and this is the first rear tire? You sure your name isn't BrunDog?

The good news is, after you get it all good and greasy, it'll slide in and out real easy next time. :dribble: :blink:

 

[rocketdoc]

After repeated attempts of whacking on hardwood against nut, and twisting axle, it finally came out. I can see no evidence of grease or dry grease on the axle. The axle has some surface rust that I will need to polish off before greasing. Since this is my first rear tire change I never found the time to disassemble to check. While wheel is off I will do the shaft splines and other maintenance. This sure was a PIA, however not as much as reattaching the return throttle cable.
Thanks for all your help.

Rob

Now you are an expert, so wasn't that fun? When you are re-nstalling your shaft put the bike in gear, it will make it a lot easier to get seated.

And finally, if you use a wide blade screw driver to open up your brake pads, it will make slipping those calipers on a lot easier. Then after it is all buttoned up and torqued, pump your rear brakes :blink: BEFORE you head out to test things.

Ride safe amigo.