Rear shock shot I think

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So, exactly how do you determine if you need a new rear shock?
On motorcycles we use different terminology than cars, especially for the rear shock. Technically there is a spring and a shock absorber, but on a motorcycle they are all one unit (unlike the rear suspension on cars which tend to have leave springs and separate shocks). The shock and spring are designed to work in tandem to get the bike stable and the tire on the ground through a bump. With an absolute ideal setup when you hit a bump the tire would follow the terrain of the bump and you sitting on the seat would not move at all.

The spring absorbs the energy from the bump by compressing, but compressed springs don't dissipate the energy they store it, meaning that it will return back to it's normal length with some force. If the spring is too strong when you hit a bump the rear tire will jump off the ground, too soft and the suspension will bottom out. Crankshaft feels like his shock compresses to easily (he pushed the back of the bike down). That is actually a spring issue, and can be adjusted to some extent by adding preload. I would be really surprised to find out that the spring on crankshafts bike is so worn that he can't add enough preload at 4400 miles to compensate, especially for an 185 lb rider.

Springs are not capable of controlling the rate at which they compress or stretch, all they want to do is return to their rest length. A compressed spring will expand past its rest length, causing it to shrink again, but it will shrink past it's rest state, causing a kind of pogoing action. This is where the shock absorber (or damper) comes in. The shock absorber controls the rate at which the spring compresses or decompresses. If you go over a bump compressing the spring, on the other side of the bump the spring will stretch due to it's being compressed and because the tire has just found some more room to travel downwards. If the two combined are strong enough the spring could actually bounce the tire hard enough into the ground on the downside to lift it. Here is where you need the shock to control the action of the spring.

So, if the shock absorber is shot you will see a lot of oscillation in your suspension or harsh action from the spring. If the spring is shot the bike will wallow. The converse is not true however, often oscillation and wallowing can be tuned out using the adjustments on the shock. Ok, there is a lot more to talk about here, but there is some basics.

Does your bike handle OK? Does the tire stay on the ground over bumps? Under hard acceleration? What about accelerating out of a corner with the bike leaned over uneven terrain?

 
4,400 miles with a 185 lb. rider is nothing. My '07 stock shock is finally shot at 66,000 miles. As FredW said, you should get a second opinion.

The reason aftermarket shocks last 15-25,000 miles is because they are designed for less stiction. That means they operate better, smoother etc., but you trade off longevity of the seals. If the stock shock shows no sign of leakage and the rebound adjustment functions properly, then there's a damn good chance it's just fine. A decent OEM/stock shock can easily be a 50,000 mile part for a rider less than 200 lbs.

Now that's not to say that you cannot benefit from aftermarket suspension upgrades. There's no comparison between the handling of aftermarket that's properly setup, and OEM tweaked to its max. If you have YES warranty you have options.

 
... If the stock shock shows no sign of leakage and the rebound adjustment functions properly...
I think this is where the problem comes in. I don't believe the rebound adjustment is functioning properly
We have about 7 of the OEM shocks right now, if anyone wants one just pay the frieght on them and they are yours.

 
... If the stock shock shows no sign of leakage and the rebound adjustment functions properly...
I think this is where the problem comes in. I don't believe the rebound adjustment is functioning properly
We have about 7 of the OEM shocks right now, if anyone wants one just pay the frieght on them and they are yours.
I assume that these are 2nd gen take-offs that won't fit a 1st gen w/ ABS, right?

[edit] Just found in the FJR matrix that the shock is interchaneagble between all years. PM sent

 
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Hope this isn't too much of a hijack. I've read a bunch of the shock threads and the write ups on GP Suspension (with photos!) but nobody ever pointed out that the OEM shock was not rebuildable. Or I missed it. Doh!

So, the procedure for a suspension upgrade is to buy an aftermarket shock (Ohlins, Wilbers, etc.) and then have it modified for my weight and riding style by a reputable shop?

Phew! $$$$$$$

 
So, the procedure for a suspension upgrade is to buy an aftermarket shock (Ohlins, Wilbers, etc.) and then have it modified for my weight and riding style by a reputable shop?
Not really. A reputable dealer will determine your normal riding load and driving style during a pre-sale interview and sell you the shock with the spring that fits your weight.

You'll have to putz some with sag and damping, but theoretically any suspension dealer worth his salt will fix you up with the right spring from the get-go.

Wouldn't it piss you off to buy a $1000 Ohlins, THEN have to send if off to be sprung correctly?

Edit: BTW, I don't have the Ohlins on my Feej, but I DO have them on my ZRex. Bought 'em HERE and literally saved $200 off the price I could find anywhere else on the 'net.

That was 3 years ago, but may still be worth checking out.

 
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+1 to Dave at GP. He's shipping one of the OEM's he has laying around the shop to me. Helluv'a nice guy!

My OEM is still in working order, but with it having to haul my fat ass around, with pillion and extra gear, I know it will wear out in less time than most. It'll be nice knowing I have a back up sitting around in my garage! Thanks again Dave! GP will definately be on my list to call when the upgrade time comes around....

 
Unless there has been some serious abuse of the shock absorber, there is no way it should be worn out at 4400 miles. If it is really worn out, you should be able to get a warranty replacement either through just your dealer or with the assistance of Yamaha Customer Service.

 
Well, I got someone else to take a look at my rear shock. He did the normal push test and noticed the same thing, an awful lot of bounce. We adjusted the compression by turning it all the way in ( clockwise ) and the shock stiffened up. Backed it out 6 clicks and things seem fine. The shock responds as expected and no bounce. Great!

Now what is odd, is the other day when I began this thread we did exactly the same thing with no noticeable difference. In matter of fact, after our first adjustment (turning clockwise and backing off x# of clicks) and no difference we went reversed everything thinking we originally went the wrong way. However, both results were the same leading us to believe there was something wrong with my shock. Can someone try to explain what could have gone wrong there?

 
Can someone try to explain what could have gone wrong there?
beer.jpg


 
Crank,

I've have an '05 with about 7,000 miles of mostly 'two up riding (~335#)' and my impression was that my shock suspension seemed to vary from time to time with no explanation. I attributed it to tire pressure, subjectiveness, etc. I thought that it was just my imagination, but after reading this maybe there is something to it? :huh:

GP,

PM sent

 
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I think things should respond instantly. Maybe the fluid has to equalize (though I don't see how that would happen) or the orifice were plugged and loosened/freed up when you were riding with the adjusment in another position. IIRC, it has been mentioned that the needle gets stuck and riding in the "open" position will sometimes free the needle.

OR....maybe the OEM shock is "just" tolerable and you should begin a savings plan for an aftermarket shock.

 
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