brewj99
Member
Anyone changed the rear wheel bearings? checked the rear wheel, has a very slight wiggle. Got the manual, but hoping someone has gone before and has some tips/tricks. Mine is a 2012 with 44k.
Rear wheel bearings
- Thread starter brewj99
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
08FJR4ME
-WYNPRO-
Not me, but if it is anything like the front have someone else do it. I suspect it is. Waiting to here. Someone must have done this but for the life of me I don't recall seeing anything either. Life of bearings seem to be a mystery with FJR's. Some last forever and some go at 12K.
Go figure.
Dave
Go figure.
Dave
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
The crew that goes to the Owasso tech days changed one a while back. It was FUBAR. Don't remember who was there, but its usually Huron, BillyFitz and a few others.
exskibum
~<>~<>~<>~<>~
I recall a post or thread (by OCFJR, I think) in which he described the progression of last stage symptoms (and something about repair) of a front wheel bearing, . . . while on the road, IIRC.
08FJR4ME
-WYNPRO-
Google search and you tube unproductive. If you do decide to replace them please take pictures on the procedure for the rest of us folks.
Dave
Dave
To have bearings go bad in only 44k miles would be unusual. Before you commit to replacing them maybe look a bit closer at it to be sure. If you do find the bearings are sloppy already and don't have the tools to replace them you could always pull the wheel and bring it to a machine shop you trust.
One bit of advice would be to replace them only with either the OEM or good quality equivalent bearings. I've heard some real horror stories about some of the more well known (cough... All Balls... cough) after-market brands going bad very quickly after installation. I would steer clear of those.
One bit of advice would be to replace them only with either the OEM or good quality equivalent bearings. I've heard some real horror stories about some of the more well known (cough... All Balls... cough) after-market brands going bad very quickly after installation. I would steer clear of those.
clocklaw
Well-known member
I had mine replaced by the dealer. I had hit a pothole bad enough to bend the front wheel and damage the bearings in the rear. They were very reasonable on the price to do it (I am thinking $20 or so) and after watching them complete the task I know I got the best of them this time. They were a bear for the professionals to do, I would not dare attempt them myself.
Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
What was the difficulty. Wheel bearings are normally an easy change. Is there something unusual about the FJR?
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
What about the guys that have powder coated their wheels. Kieffer FJR comes to mind. I may have spelled that wrong...
FJRay
Well-known member
Lots of MC wheels have a spacer between the bearings that can't be moved far enough to get a punch in place to remove the bearing. Once you get the first one the second one is easy. I usually machine a tool for each application and save it for the next one but not everybody has a lathe and mill. It not recommended to reuse a bearing after beating on it with a hammer
hppants
Well-known member
I've done it twice on my nighthawks, and the parts breakdown looks like the FJR wheel assy is the same. FJRRay is correct - getting a punch to go past the spacer an onto the inner side of the first bearing to drive it out is the hardest part. If I have to do that again, I'm going to invest in an internal bearing puller like this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/pullers/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html
A couple of other handy tips from my experiences:
1. When removing the bearings, put a little (not a lot) heat on the hub using a plumber's torch. The AL wheel will expand and help the process.
2. Put the new bearings in the freezer a few hours before you install them. They will contract ever so slightly, but combining that with a little (not a lot) more heat during the re-assembly process will make them go in like butter.
https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/pullers/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html
A couple of other handy tips from my experiences:
1. When removing the bearings, put a little (not a lot) heat on the hub using a plumber's torch. The AL wheel will expand and help the process.
2. Put the new bearings in the freezer a few hours before you install them. They will contract ever so slightly, but combining that with a little (not a lot) more heat during the re-assembly process will make them go in like butter.
Redfish Hunter
Gone Fishing
When the forum paid for the new motor in Patriot's bike Dad and I rode over there to check on the progress. The mechanic showed me the play in the rear wheel while the bike was on the lift. Patriot had previously installed All Balls front and rear, they were shot with very low miles. The rear was astonishingly, scary bad, the amount of slack was hard to believe.
That mechanic told us that All Balls had been very good but the quality had dropped off and advised me to stay away from that brand at all cost.
BikerGeek99
Yeah, it's a concrete corn cob. So?
Good memory, 'Zilla!
That was TripperMike - the needle bearings in his rear had disintegrated. Watching the gunk that had been bearings come out of the hub was something.
I'll PM him a link to this thread.
Yeah that was my bike. Although the wheels felt solid, checking for any sign of slack by hand, it just didn't feel right when riding it. Hard to describe, but it just didn't feel like it was tracking "true" in the turns.
Long story short, the center bearing in the rear was GONE. Totally ground to dust. So yes, the spacer that would normally be between that bearing and the one on the starboard side, was damaged and loose in the wheel. Replacing the bearings aren't too bad, but if you have to grind the race to get it out, be patient and don't rush it.
Thinking back, it was kinda funny to see Ray's reaction when he finally realized where that middle bearing had gone.
BTW I believe I had about 130K+ on my bike, but that's not say a bearing can't give up the ghost any earlier.
Long story short, the center bearing in the rear was GONE. Totally ground to dust. So yes, the spacer that would normally be between that bearing and the one on the starboard side, was damaged and loose in the wheel. Replacing the bearings aren't too bad, but if you have to grind the race to get it out, be patient and don't rush it.
Thinking back, it was kinda funny to see Ray's reaction when he finally realized where that middle bearing had gone.
BTW I believe I had about 130K+ on my bike, but that's not say a bearing can't give up the ghost any earlier.
BikerGeek99
Yeah, it's a concrete corn cob. So?
To add to Mike's comments - the indicator that I recall was a scored axle. The axle on Mike's bike had some serious wear / scores on it. Mine, at aboot 100K at that point, was still in good shape. So, perhaps, when doing a rear tire change, do a visual inspection of your axle. If it don't look right, something prolly ain't right.
I had forgotten about the scored axle, but the Geek is correct. There were a couple times prior to changing out the bearings, where I had to "encourage" the axle to come out with a 2 x 4 tapping on the end. That axle has since been replaced. So even though the wheel didn't wiggle, there were indicators that something wasn't right.
hppants
Well-known member
Clarifying my previous post, it seems that the rear wheel on the FJR is different from my previous experiences (3 bearings instead of two). Admittedly, I only checked the front wheel parts breakdown, which shows 2 bearings. None the less, I believe my methods described above would be applicable.
Mike - I believe your having the tap the axle out was definitely a contributing factor to your bearing failure. Those needle bearings (center) and non-tapered roller bearings (outer two) are designed to take good radial loads, but ZERO lateral loads. This is a good reminder to put a light coat of moly grease on the axle before re-installing it during tire changes (which of course I always do).
Cheers.
Mike - I believe your having the tap the axle out was definitely a contributing factor to your bearing failure. Those needle bearings (center) and non-tapered roller bearings (outer two) are designed to take good radial loads, but ZERO lateral loads. This is a good reminder to put a light coat of moly grease on the axle before re-installing it during tire changes (which of course I always do).
Cheers.
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I did the front bearings a while back. No different than my FJ. The FJ has three bearings in the rear, but one is in the cush drive. Have to look at the parts fiche for the FJR. The third bearing is a needle bearing?
I get all my bearings from CBR Bearings. Small shop with excellent service. Charlie only sells quality stuff. No chinese crap. And he has minimal shipping charges. Which makes the total price reasonable. I need to give him a call so I have the rear bearings in hand in case I need them. I'm pushing 94k miles on the originals. I check them at every tire change.
I get all my bearings from CBR Bearings. Small shop with excellent service. Charlie only sells quality stuff. No chinese crap. And he has minimal shipping charges. Which makes the total price reasonable. I need to give him a call so I have the rear bearings in hand in case I need them. I'm pushing 94k miles on the originals. I check them at every tire change.
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