rebuild at 30,000 miles?

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Price for the Gen III Schock Assy ( 2009 # Shock Absorber Assy, Rear 3P6-22210-10-00 ) appears to have gone up about $200 from what it was a couple of months ago. At around $600 you might want to take a look at some of the offerings from Penske, Ohlins and others.

 
I agree with a lot of what all of you have said. I am going to do the forks on the 4th of Aug. What oil do you suggest that I use in the forks? I know the book says Yamaha 01. I also know that it will cost a lot. Is there anything else that can be or, should be used in the forks?
I rode through your fine town on Saturday...... I would use a 5W, and Bel-Ray is likely available most places.

 
Price for the Gen III Schock Assy ( 2009 # Shock Absorber Assy, Rear 3P6-22210-10-00 ) appears to have gone up about $200 from what it was a couple of months ago. At around $600 you might want to take a look at some of the offerings from Penske, Ohlins and others.
Stadium Yamaha still shows $425 for an OEM '13-14 shock. But, we're less than a couple hundred where you can score a quality aftermarket emulsion (rebuildable) shock...your choice of brand!

--G

 
I had the bike on a 250 mile ride on Sat. Everything appeared to be fine to me. I am thinking the best thing to do is, just leave it alone until it starts to ride funny. The forks should be done next week.

 
I agree with a lot of what all of you have said. I am going to do the forks on the 4th of Aug. What oil do you suggest that I use in the forks? I know the book says Yamaha 01. I also know that it will cost a lot. Is there anything else that can be or, should be used in the forks?
I use 10 wt and set the suspension a little softer than Fred likes to. IMHO there's no settings that will please everyone, you've got to pick a starting point and adjust for you from there. I've found that a lot of it is the conditions of the roads you ride, plus I am not a canyon carver requiring the optimum race track-like suspension performance. I don't mind dragging a peg once in a while but it is certainly not my predominant riding style. Down my way the roads are better than average so I tend to set for a plusher ride. But I've been up your way- the roads are crap and stiffer settings are a must. Fred's settings may be the ticket for frost heave but here it's way too harsh, also IMO hence the " drink-the-kool-aid, absolutely-necessary-to-upgrade" thinking.

IMHO If you ride mostly decent roads the rear is fine and just changing fork oil will make a minor and barely noticeable difference.

 
I agree with a lot of what all of you have said. I am going to do the forks on the 4th of Aug. What oil do you suggest that I use in the forks? I know the book says Yamaha 01. I also know that it will cost a lot. Is there anything else that can be or, should be used in the forks?
You should use the same viscosity oil that the designer used....and Yamaha 01 is about a 4wt oil (in spite of Yamaha calling it a 10wt oil in some of the service manuals). Unfortunately not all 5wt oils are the same, some are actually closer to 7wt but suspension fluids have consistent viscosity and the numbers you want are 85/150.

One very good alternative is Honda's SS-7, it sold by the pint for about $6.00 and it only takes 3 pints to do both forks.

 
I did not know that the changing of the fork oil was going to be so easy! Looking at the oil that came out of the forks, it was dark in one and shinny in the other, it smelled bad. I think that is the first time the fork oil was ever changed on my bike. I plan on changing it again in another 20,000 miles. I used the Honda SS-7 fork oil that is red in color. I will see if it still is red when I change it.

I also changed the tires that were on the bike. My friend has a machine to change the tires, that was not that hard either. Harbor Freight has a machine to change tires for $40. They also have a balancing machine for $40. I am going to look at getting one of each. My friends machines are not from Harbor Freight but, he said if they can do the same thing as the machine he has to go get it.

 
I did not know that the changing of the fork oil was going to be so easy! Looking at the oil that came out of the forks, it was dark in one and shinny in the other, it smelled bad. I think that is the first time the fork oil was ever changed on my bike. I plan on changing it again in another 20,000 miles. I used the Honda SS-7 fork oil that is red in color. I will see if it still is red when I change it.
Red in color? All the of the Honda SS-7 I have is clear in the color, the Honda SS-8 (10 wt) is a purple/red color....its been a while since I bought any, maybe Honda changed the colors.

 
I can chime in that at 30,000 miles, my 2003's bushings were quite well worn. If you're going through all the trouble, I would recommend replacing them (and the seals at that point since they'll be out anyway)

 
I had the bike on a 250 mile ride on Sat. Everything appeared to be fine to me. I am thinking the best thing to do is, just leave it alone until it starts to ride funny. The forks should be done next week.
Sounds like you're at that place in life where pretty much anything else you do with your money will garner you a better return on your investment. If you're not experiencing any dissatisfaction with the ride quality on your bike don't worry too much about something you've read on the internet, not everyone rides the same ride.

 
I am going to let the seals alone, they weren't leaking at all. Why replace them when there is nothing wrong.

I would agree that we all ride differently. I will say that after changing the fork oil, the bike rides and handles differently! I like it a lot better now.

 
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