Recommended "bar back" product not requiring line extensions?

[Bill Lumberg]

What product do you use or recommend to move the bars up/back? I'm looking for a product that provides the max movement available without having to extend the brake or other lines. Also, if you recommend a product, did you install or have a shop install? Thanks in advance.

 

[NMRoadRunner]

These farkel gurus are gonna want to know what year FJR. Mine is a Gen II and I use a Heli Bar top triple clamp set up

 

[Fred W]

Assume you are talking for a new 3rd gen here.

There are only a few options.

1) Simple spacer type bar risers. These are made by various folks. The ones I have are 28mm (a tad over an inch). They do not provide any pull back or change in bar angle. No hydraulic line or cable length issues.

$55 shipped from eBay

(there are others out there)

2) HeliBars Riser Bridge

You remove the bars and add a "Bridge" type spacer. You can choose one of three positions for your bars when installing. No bar angles are provided but that can be inferred by the bar width. The wider the bars the more open the angle will be.

Most forward location:

• 1" taller than stock
• 1 1/2" rearward
• 3" wider than stock at 28 1/2" - greatly improves rider leverage.

Middle location:

• 1" taller than stock
• 2 1/4" rearward
• 1 1/2" wider than stock at 27"

Most rearward location:

• 1" taller than stock
• 3" rearward
• Stock width at 25 1/2"

The HeliBar bridge does require lengthening the hydraulic brake hose, but they provide you an extension hose to do that.

The same unit fits all second and third gen bikes and the cost is $239.

3) Motorcycle Larry Riser Plate

You replace the upper triple clamp with theirs. These move the bars 1 3/4" back and 1 1/2" up. They also open the bars by 4 degrees forward to change the bar angle. They say no problems with cable or hose length. You have to move your ignition switch over to the new triple clamp.

The A models cost $300 and the ES specific model costs $320.

The reason I already knew all of this is that I am not fully satisfied with the simple risers. Because I am 6'2" and perched on a Russell seat I need more than the 1" riser provides and would also like to modify the bar angle to be more like my 1st Gen was. I am seriously considering investing in the MCL Riser Plate because, although it is the most expensive, it seems to be the best total solution, IMO. But I may end up opting for the Heli Bridge for economic reasons

 

[Mihalis fjr]

Very easy installation

01-05

https://www.mv-motorrad.de/en/MV+Handlebar+Adapter+Plate+Yamaha+FJR+1300+from+2003+up+to+2005+with+Solar+Thermometer.htm

06-13

https://www.mv-motorrad.de/en/Yamaha+FJR+1300+2006+up+to+2012+MV+Handlebar+Adapter+Plate.htm

2014

https://www.mv-motorrad.de/en/MV+Handlebar+Adapter+Plate+Yamaha+FJR+1300+2013+Variant+AE+and+ES+with+Upside+Down+Front+Fork.htm

Review

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/146408-my-impressions-of-the-mv-motorrad-bar-riser/

 

[ahchiu]

MV Motorrad risers has bar angle adjustments and for under $300.00 I think it's the best bang for your bucks.

 

[Fly Bye]

I use a gen II Heli Bar and love it.

No extensions necessary.

 

[Fred W]

Very easy installation

01-05

https://www.mv-motorrad.de/en/MV+Handlebar+Adapter+Plate+Yamaha+FJR+1300+from+2003+up+to+2005+with+Solar+Thermometer.htm

06-13

https://www.mv-motorrad.de/en/Yamaha+FJR+1300+2006+up+to+2012+MV+Handlebar+Adapter+Plate.htm

2014

https://www.mv-motorrad.de/en/MV+Handlebar+Adapter+Plate+Yamaha+FJR+1300+2013+Variant+AE+and+ES+with+Upside+Down+Front+Fork.htm

Review

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/146408-my-impressions-of-the-mv-motorrad-bar-riser/

Thanks. Forgot about that one. I wasn't aware they had one for the ES. That is definitely in the hunt.

I use a gen II Heli Bar and love it.
No extensions necessary.

Not anymore. The only riser they now sell for the 2nd and 3rd gens is the bridge I linked to above, which comes with the brake line extension.

 

[Redfish Hunter]

Just curious, why are you against extending the brake line? That was the easiest part of the entire installation process. Removing the top triple clamp was the biggest issue for me and that was more mental than physical.

I have the Heli-Bar Bridge and yes, it does require the brake line extension they provide in the package. Yes, I think that looks bad but I don't feel any loss of brake performance or feel.

All of Fred's info on the Heli Bar Bridge is correct and per Heli Bar's literature. BUT!!! They advertise this bar riser as "3 position adjustable" and Fred was kind enough to provide those numbers for us. That is not exactly correct. They are infinitely adjustable between the two outside points. You can set them anywhere in that range and tighten them down, just like the MV Motoradd.

 

[Fred W]

They advertise this bar riser as "3 position adjustable" and Fred was kind enough to provide those numbers for us. That is not exactly correct. They are infinitely adjustable between the two outside points. You can set them anywhere in that range and tighten them down, just like the MV Motoradd.

That's good to know. Makes me want to go the HeliBar Bridge route even more. Plus they are right here in New England (Maine) which is nice.

 

[idfc]

HI Fred, these blocks look good. Did you have to cut the metal wire holder? How tight are the lines after the installation?

Thanks.

Assume you are talking for a new 3rd gen here.
There are only a few options.

1) Simple spacer type bar risers. These are made by various folks. The ones I have are 28mm (a tad over an inch). They do not provide any pull back or change in bar angle. No hydraulic line or cable length issues.

$55 shipped from eBay

(there are others out there)

 

[Fred W]

HI Fred, these blocks look good. Did you have to cut the metal wire holder? How tight are the lines after the installation?

Thanks.

Yes, you do have to cut those metal wire cable looms, no matter what riser option you go with. I used the cutters in a pair of Vice Grips and it nipped them with no problems. With these spacers there is no problems at all with cable or hose lengths.

The biggest problem with these simple spacers is they do not fix the bar angle issue. When they went to the 2nd generation FJR back in 2006 they moved the handle bar angle inward (more acute) and it doesn't line up with the way your wrists angle, so you end up putting too much pressure on the outsides of your palms. My hands end up taking a snooze after about 2-3 hours of continuous riding. My first gen bars never did that and I never altered the bar angles.

I tried punching the outside pins out of the spacers to allow them to pivot outwards, and that helped some, but you lose some of the rise by rotating the bars forwards, and the bars were not secure from rotation with the spacers in there due in part to to the painted surfaces. So I put the pins back in and am waiting to go another step forward.

 

[Redfish Hunter]

Dad likes the change in bar angle on the bridge. We are running it about 2/3 of the way back which allows a flatter bar angle, wider bars and still moves the bars way back from the stock position.

He also mentioned a slight improvement in the effectiveness of his mirrors since his shoulders are farther away from them.

 

[xcsp]

Regarding the metal wire looms, I didn't cut any on my '14 when I installed the MV Motorrad riser plate.

 

[Fred W]

Regarding the metal wire looms, I didn't cut any on my '14 when I installed the MV Motorrad riser plate.

Ok I stand corrected. The MV Motorrad plate must use the stock bolts to hold the plate on the top triple clamp then.
All of the other options replace the 4 stock handlebar bolts. The two bigger bolts (with the large nuts on the top) are connected to each other and the wire cable guides under the triple clamp.

 

[idfc]

Thank you so much Fred, I sincerely appreciate your reply.

Now you got me thinking. May be I do need both. Height and angle changes...

Thanks again!

HI Fred, these blocks look good. Did you have to cut the metal wire holder? How tight are the lines after the installation?
Thanks.

Yes, you do have to cut those metal wire cable looms, no matter what riser option you go with. I used the cutters in a pair of Vice Grips and it nipped them with no problems. With these spacers there is no problems at all with cable or hose lengths.

The biggest problem with these simple spacers is they do not fix the bar angle issue. When they went to the 2nd generation FJR back in 2006 they moved the handle bar angle inward (more acute) and it doesn't line up with the way your wrists angle, so you end up putting too much pressure on the outsides of your palms. My hands end up taking a snooze after about 2-3 hours of continuous riding. My first gen bars never did that and I never altered the bar angles.

I tried punching the outside pins out of the spacers to allow them to pivot outwards, and that helped some, but you lose some of the rise by rotating the bars forwards, and the bars were not secure from rotation with the spacers in there due in part to to the painted surfaces. So I put the pins back in and am waiting to go another step forward.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

Invaluable info to a noob. I went with helibars. Only real concern is extending the brake line. I think I can handle the rest. Has everyone who has installed heli's extended their brake line?

 

[nkavanau]

Had 1" riserd installed and was never really satisfied with them, so I Installed the Heli Bridge on my 06' and absolutely love them. Set them all the way back and they make a huge difference. As for the brake line extension, really simple, and they do include above average instructions. The extension piece may not look the best, but I'm a function over form guy, so I don't care.. I'm also way to cheap to buy a new custom line when there is nothing wrong with the old one...

 

[Fred W]

I'm resurrecting this thread and old question that never got answered, because I am considering the same thing:

I went with helibars. Only real concern is extending the brake line. I think I can handle the rest. Has everyone who has installed heli's extended their brake line?

I realize that they provide the brake line extension (but curiously no extension for the clutch) and that it isn't a huge issue to add the extension and bleed what little air will be introduced. But, quite honestly, I think their extension piece with it's 90 degree angle fitting, looks like a bad kludge. Why they didn't come up with something a bit more sanitary is beyond me.

The MV Motorrad plate has very similar rise, setback and angle adjustments, and they get by with no hydraulic hose extension(s) simply by disconnecting the support brackets on each side of the steering stem (where the hoses go into the frame) and adding repositioning blocks to provide about 1/2" increase in the slack.

That plus, I know already that I will not be wanting to run the bars in the furthest back angle, as that would be the same angle that the stock bars have, and that is what I'm wanting to change. I think I'll be wanting to run the bars at about the mid point, angle wise, which will mitigate the need for extending the brake hose somewhat.

So, the question remains, has anyone tried to install the HeliBar Bridge on a 3rd Gen without installing the provided hydraulic hose extension?

 

[Blind Squirrel]

Food for thought: The thing I noticed on my Gen I when I added my risers/backs and a RDL is that it elevated me to the point where it put my helmet into the turbulence zone no matter what windshield I tried. I could bring the windshield down and get clean air, but I could not get a clean, quiet pocket without hunching down, thus defeating the purpose of risers.