Wow. That’s a lot of dosh. I guess that is some good extra motivation to do this pain-in-the-ass preventive maintenance, to avoid having to pay that amount . Thanks for the tally, pants.
Relay arm bearing time.
- Thread starter hppants
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RossKean
Well-known member
I did the math a couple years ago and came to the conclusion that a low mileage used one was worth it compared to refurbishing. I got one in like-new shape for a hundred bucks.
Heen
Barefooter
hppants
Well-known member
Ross - I was hoping for the same luck you had, but it didnt happen.
All - had a thought last night. (It happens occasionally).
Since there is no inner race to hold the needles in place, what do yall do to protect them while installing the bearings? Grease the heavily and hope the grease holds the needles? Press or drive the bearings with the collar installed? Other?
Also- thinking about putting the bearings in the freezer first to contract them a bit and aide in the installation process. Thoughts on that?
All - had a thought last night. (It happens occasionally).
Since there is no inner race to hold the needles in place, what do yall do to protect them while installing the bearings? Grease the heavily and hope the grease holds the needles? Press or drive the bearings with the collar installed? Other?
Also- thinking about putting the bearings in the freezer first to contract them a bit and aide in the installation process. Thoughts on that?
There is an inner race. It is the collar. The new bearings also come with a wax-like substance between the rollers that holds them in place when the collar is removed. On my '05 I picked all of the waxy stuff out and replaced it with wheel bearing grease. I like having more grease in the bearing rather than the retainer wax. The grease keeps the rollers in place pretty well too, but shoving the collar in makes it so they can't come out.
Chilling parts to be pressed in is pretty much SOP.
Chilling parts to be pressed in is pretty much SOP.
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BkerChuck
Second hand vegetarian
I posted these in the other forum but felt I should share them here as well. These are what came out of my bike at 125k miles without being serviced.
Of course this is the bike that carried me for the 680 consecutive day riding streak in PA and as such it was ridden in rain, some snow, and roads that get treated with brine and salt. This damage is completely my own responsibility and could have been avoided if I'd taken the time to tear into it. The job is a PITA but obviously worth it. With a decent relay arm and fresh rear shock the difference is amazing.
Of course this is the bike that carried me for the 680 consecutive day riding streak in PA and as such it was ridden in rain, some snow, and roads that get treated with brine and salt. This damage is completely my own responsibility and could have been avoided if I'd taken the time to tear into it. The job is a PITA but obviously worth it. With a decent relay arm and fresh rear shock the difference is amazing.
John d
Well-known member
^^^ I hope Yamaha sees that and rethinks their design for servicing requirement. Nothing should be that hard to service that most people would rather leave alone than do. I would gladly pay a few extra dollars for a bike that comes standard with zerk fittings, like the old ZG1000 Concours has.
Aluminum expands more per degree of heat rise than steel shrinks during cooling (same temp gradient) I found that warming the relay arm prior to pressing in the bearings was helpful. Wear gloves.
Canadian FJR
Canadian FJR
I serviced the relay arm bearings twice on my old ‘03.
Is there anything different with my ‘18 that I should be aware off. Plan to remove and inspect this winter.
Canadian FJR
Is there anything different with my ‘18 that I should be aware off. Plan to remove and inspect this winter.
Canadian FJR
dcumpian
Well-known member
Based on what I've read on here, I just did my 2018 a few weeks ago and I didn't run into anything radically different. You still have to get those bolts out, and it is a pain the first time.
I actually ended up disassembling the center stand and was able to get everything apart by only removing the right hand bracket. I left the "left" one alone because there is a welded bracket that holds a fuel drain and made it way too difficult to get to the left hand bracket bolts.
Reversed the bolts on reassembly and it should be much easier next time.
Dan
Canadian FJR
Canadian FJR
How many miles on your '18 and what kind of shape was everything in?
Canadian FJR
Canadian FJR
dcumpian
Well-known member
Right at 18500 was when I did it. Everything, bearing wise, was in really good shape, but the exterior needed a good cleaning. I used Lucas Red 'n' Tacky grease and stuffed the bearings.
Dan
philter
Well-known member
I scored a really nice relay arm off an 09 with 16,000 miles for 28 dollars. Woohoo. Just got it today. {yeah I'm braggin, LOL}
Couple of questions. I heard what you guys said about the front underside of the arm being sandblasted, and It didn't seem quite right, but Dang, the front underside of the one I bought, at only 16,000 miles, was rough as heck. I can't imagine actual "sand" doing that at the "relatively" slow speeds we ride at. Perhaps small rocks and pebbles kicked up by the front wheel? I know the arm is soft aluminium but still. I am curious if mine, with 60-70 thousand miles will be better or worse.
What do you guys think about just stuffing some more grease into those pretty, clean, bearings, as opposed to scooping them out of there, removing the waxy stuff everyone says they are packed with and replacing it with axle grease???
Also, I bought a metal cutting blade for my HF oscillating tool. I have never cut serious metal with the oscillating tool, only wood and nails and I am fearful that tool won't cut the bolts to the center stand and I will get stuck removing the exhaust or have to bend the hell out of the exhaust to get them out. Anyone use an oscillating saw to cut those bolts???
Lastly, if anyone wants the old arm after I get it out, it's yours for the shipping. I have no idea what I will find when I get it out.
Thanks
Couple of questions. I heard what you guys said about the front underside of the arm being sandblasted, and It didn't seem quite right, but Dang, the front underside of the one I bought, at only 16,000 miles, was rough as heck. I can't imagine actual "sand" doing that at the "relatively" slow speeds we ride at. Perhaps small rocks and pebbles kicked up by the front wheel? I know the arm is soft aluminium but still. I am curious if mine, with 60-70 thousand miles will be better or worse.
What do you guys think about just stuffing some more grease into those pretty, clean, bearings, as opposed to scooping them out of there, removing the waxy stuff everyone says they are packed with and replacing it with axle grease???
Also, I bought a metal cutting blade for my HF oscillating tool. I have never cut serious metal with the oscillating tool, only wood and nails and I am fearful that tool won't cut the bolts to the center stand and I will get stuck removing the exhaust or have to bend the hell out of the exhaust to get them out. Anyone use an oscillating saw to cut those bolts???
Lastly, if anyone wants the old arm after I get it out, it's yours for the shipping. I have no idea what I will find when I get it out.
Thanks
Full House
Well-known member
The centerstand bolts are not that hard. I cut mine with a sawsall with a metal cutting blade in about 15 seconds each. Clamp the head with vise-grips to keep the bolt from turning.
RossKean
Well-known member
No need to pick out the bearings and "waxy" stuff, IMHO. Smear a little fresh waterproof grease in there and call it good - as long as the bearings appear to be in decent shape with little to no corrosion.
I'll give $20 plus shipping for that used relay arm. Good donor for a grease fitting mod. If your 'score' relay arm has the collars in it, I'd like the ones in your take off too. Good indicators of the condition of the bearings. PM me, please. Thanks
hppants
Well-known member
Agree with the above. Quite frankly, the hardest part of this job is to decide how you want to hang the bike. This is how I did mine:
Cutting the C/S bolts is no big deal, but you do need a sharp blade. Use some oil on the blade teeth and they will but like butter. I bought some OEM bolts to replace, but there is nothing special about them - any hardware store will have those in stock.
My only regret is not doing it sooner. I ended up replacing my bearings and collars. I'm not entirely sure that I had to, but the waxy crap was so corroded that I didn't want to take any chances.
Cutting the C/S bolts is no big deal, but you do need a sharp blade. Use some oil on the blade teeth and they will but like butter. I bought some OEM bolts to replace, but there is nothing special about them - any hardware store will have those in stock.
My only regret is not doing it sooner. I ended up replacing my bearings and collars. I'm not entirely sure that I had to, but the waxy crap was so corroded that I didn't want to take any chances.
philter
Well-known member
I built a black pipe hanger thingy a long time ago,, So that's no problem. Just got through of 10 days of miserable cold flu, and need to spend a couple of days catching up, need to put a Strut on my grandson-in-law's Tacoma, and move my daughter to her new apartment, than it's back to pleasing myself. LOL
FJReady, the parts from the take-off are yours if you want them after we see what they look like. I am an old Salisbury boy so I would love sending them to you. LOL
The last time I was under the FJR, was when I put OBND's take-off 14 shock on, and at that time I had some looseness on the front bearing, but the wide part where the legs attach and the part where the shock attached seemed to be in great shape.
FJReady, the parts from the take-off are yours if you want them after we see what they look like. I am an old Salisbury boy so I would love sending them to you. LOL
The last time I was under the FJR, was when I put OBND's take-off 14 shock on, and at that time I had some looseness on the front bearing, but the wide part where the legs attach and the part where the shock attached seemed to be in great shape.
philter
Well-known member
Almost everyone who posts pictures of their garage/shop have clean organized work area's, I wonder if everyone but me has an organized shop, or am I the only one who will post of pic of my disastrous garage. LOLAgree with the above. Quite frankly, the hardest part of this job is to decide how you want to hang the bike. This is how I did mine:
Cutting the C/S bolts is no big deal, but you do need a sharp blade. Use some oil on the blade teeth and they will but like butter. I bought some OEM bolts to replace, but there is nothing special about them - any hardware store will have those in stock.
My only regret is not doing it sooner. I ended up replacing my bearings and collars. I'm not entirely sure that I had to, but the waxy crap was so corroded that I didn't want to take any chances.
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