Removing Fuel Rail?

[SickDog]

Down to the last steps on my cruise control install - now it's time to drill the hole in the throttle stop tang. I've tried using a long flexible drill bit extension but the drill bit is too eratic to keep it centered on the tang. Then I went out and bought an extra long drill bit. When I attempted to drill the hole the drill bit danced around and skidded off the tang (I guess I should have placed some tape around the tang so the bit could get some bite before attempting to drill the hole). When the drill bit danced off the tang it nicked the throttle cable... I had to take the bike to the shop and have the cable replaced. Damn. Since the shop was into the engine I asked if they would drill the hole but they wouldn't - liability issues they said.

So...do I bring the bike home and attempt to remove the tank and the fuel rail? Any suggestions or instructions or advice on this task? Or should I save the hassle and have the shop keep the tank off, remove the fuel rail, and then bring the bike home and drill the tang only to return it to the shop to have them reinstall the tank and fuel rail?

If I sound a bit frustrated- I am.

 

[Pappy]

The fuel rail is held by two #3 phillips-head screws and a number of connectors. Remove the two screws (they're highly torqued so if you don't have one, get a #3 screwdriver!).

The FI's have two rubbers gaskets where they tap into the throttle bodies, one for the injector end and one for the hole. Be careful with these as the throttle body gasket tends to come off with the injector and could be lost.

I used a very fine drill to pilot the hole. They are easier to control and will guide the 5/32" bit right through.

I'm in the middle a huge winter farkling session and just finished hooking-up the throttle linkage.

Pappy

 

[Timbo2015]

I also found the two screws holding in the rail to be very tight. I used an impact driver to loosen them to avoid stripping them out.

I think you would be far better off, considering both time and hassle, if you remove the rail yourself. It really isn't that hard. If you can do the rest of the CC install, you can do this.

I used a Dremel to drill a small pilot hole in the tang first. I used the cotterpin method of attaching the CC cable to the tang.

 

[radman]

The pilot bit method is superior. No need to remove the rail if this method is used. Use care to get the pilot hole perfect-then use a buttonhead screw for cable fastening. I did and the action is flawless with no chance of hangup or cable fraying.

Size was 4mm IIRC. Placed it as close to the tip of the tang as possible. Pilot was a new 5/64 bit.

If you must remove the rail, +1 on using an impact to break the screws loose. The rail actually pops off easily, I just don't think it's necessary using a pilot bit.

 

[BrunDog]

+1 on rad's commentary. The BHSCS is totally the way to go. Why everyone continues to struggle with grinding down screw heads, nails, and cotter pins is beyond me. The button head will not touch the cable, and even if it did, would cause no damage.

You do NOT need to remove the rail. While it does make it harder to get hardware into the tang, it can be done.

I used a long 1/8" bit and it fit through the gap in the injector and the rail casting. See this thread, under "Part 2", the fourth picture down: Hit the rat on me!

-BD

 

[SilveradoSlick]

Another vote for removing the rail. It's possible to do it without removing the rail but klutzes like you and me can handle screws and connectors better than precision drilling and installing little tiny bits of hardware between the injectos. An automatic punch might help with the drilling.

 

[TWSTYS]

I removed the fuel rail when I installed the cruise control.

Something to think about...

Cover the injector ports with tape while you drill the tang. While drilling, there will be metal shards flying off the bit. You do not want those shards ending up inside the injector ports! I also held a vacuum cleaner hose next to the drill bit while drilling. You may want to use compressed air to blow away any sand and other gunk that may be in the work area before removing the rail.

I've done it 3 times now. I just could not get my clumsy fingers in there to work without removing the fuel rail. Just like SilveradoSlick said, it wasn't just drilling the hole. It made it easier to insert the screw, nut and eyelet for the chain.

I never would have succeded the first time if not for the instructions from those who went before me and posted those instructions. Thanks!

Steve

 

[Pepperell]

I removed the rail. Use the correct size driver on the screws. Many screw drivers have a hex cast into the shank near the handle which allows you to put a box end wrench on to get enough torque. I haven't needed to use an impact driver using this method. Don't drop the little rubber thingies as you pull the rail up.

Pepperell

 

[radman]

I guess I should add I had the benefit of a Vista Cruise already installed. With this I was able to open the throttle all the way and lock it for easy access to the tang. Any method of holding the throttle wfo would facilitate the drilling job.