Removing stock brake hoses

[dobias]

I would appreciate any suggestions on breaking loose the front stock hose block connections so I can finish the Spiegler hose installation. I have the proper line wrenches but cannot break them loose without taking a chance on damaging the hard lines or rounding the line fittings.

Will penetrating oil or applied heat help?

dobias <_<

 

[skyway]

Are you talking about the manifold near the tripple clamp?

 

[Warchild]

I would try heat. A hefty amount.

Like, use a heat gun set on "high" and cook them babies a good little while.

Between that, and applying sufficient force using proper line wrenches, you should be okay.

Make sure your line wrenches are a good fit (this pic from my Blackbird, not the FJR):

If you are truely uber-concened about it, consider having an experience tech "break" the initial hold for you.

 

[dobias]

Skyway,

Yes, that's the one. There's not much leverage room, is there?

Warchild,

Thanks, again, for your valued help. I'm off to Sears for a heat gun instead of using my butane torch. Sears has recently announced a new tool that looks like an abreviated line tool. It's supposed to provide exceptional grip on hex heads. I'll try to get that, too.

dobias <_<

 

[dobias]

Forget the Sears "Extreme Grip" wrenches, they aren't available in 10 mm.

dobias <_<

 

[dobias]

Warchild,

Success!

All I had to do was to remove all of the wiring I had running through the neck to the seat in a fiberglass sleeve, remove the battery and threaten it with the purchase of a Sears heat gun. I didn't even have to use the gun.

All I really needed was the space for my fat hands.

I gripped the original hose blocks with a large visegrip and had the leverage to break loose the steel line fitting with a line wrench.

Now, how paranoid should I be about getting brake fluid on the shoes (don't ask)and washing them off immediately with brake cleaner?

dobias <_<

 

[Warchild]

Now, how paranoid should I be about getting brake fluid on the shoes (don't ask)and washing them off immediately with brake cleaner?

You're liable to get varying degrees of replies here, but here's what I would do:

I would toss them. They are contaminated. Regardless of how fast you removed the fluid.

Wanna risk it for the price of a single pair of shoes?

Get new ones.

 

[yamahlr]

Sound advice Warchild.

 

[GunMD]

+1 on replacement...that fluid is some NASTY stuff. You'll have them on your mind the first time you're cooking down some twisty mountian road heating up the stoppers. Replace now, rest easy later.

 

[dobias]

skyway, yamahlr, GunMD & Warchild,

Warchild's advice was well received.

I'm waiting on a complete new set of EBC double H pads now.

I installed the contaminated pads while I bled the lines. The rear brakes had a hard pedal without a lot of work but the front ABS had to have the brake lever squeezed & tied down overnight to get the last bit of air bled. The front brake lever was much harder in the morning.

Everything will be well scrubbed with soap & water then the rotors will be sanded & recleaned with alcohol before the new pads are installed.

dobias <_<

 

[Ignacio]

Holding down the front brake lever over night worked for me too.

I had a little trouble with the stock front bleeders though. I'd get some air going by the threads while I was bleeding even when I'd open them just a little. On the advice of Warchild or somebody I tried a dab of thick grease around the threads and then did the bleed. That worked a bit better for me and the fronts are definitely stiffer.