Removing the front ABS sensor...any tricks

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rocketdoc

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I am pulling my front wheel to have a tire change done, and I have run into a snag with one thing, on the left side the ABS sensor has to be removed from the housing before the calipers can be removed. I have removed the bolt that secures the sensor, but cannot get the sensor out of the housing. The thing is magnetic to ferrous tools, but I can't imagine that is what is holding things so solid.

Any tips here would be much appreciated.

 
I copied those pages and have consulted my Service Manual, just wondering if anyone else has had this problem.

 
Now that the bolt has been removed, rotate the sensor. If it will not rotate, probably spooge in there, tap it gently downwards near or at the hole for the mounting bolt, so that it breaks the seal of the round ID that is holding it together. No harm should come to your sensor with this technique, since normally the fit is not tight at all.

 
It has corroded, well actually, the housing has. Raw aluminum. I ran into this on the rear one. Carefully pry it out, clean the sensor and housing, then paint the interior of the housing and let it dry well. No more sticky.

 
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Great and welcomed replies Skyway & Radman. You are absolutely correcto mundo. I used a box knife to pry between the housing and sensor and gradually got it to move up and down a bit, then pried some more until I could get the blade of a flat screw driver in there, then finally worked it out.

Watching the aluminum corrode like this is depressing, I will deal with it as suggested.

Here is a picture of the problem...

https://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c147/JBa...ld/IMGP4063.jpg

 
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I forget where you live, rocketdoc, but it looks like an area of high humidity, perhaps? That's some nasty stuff going on there...

I have never liked the way Yamaha goes about it's hardware plating and general anti-corrosion prevention measures. :angry:

 
Vancouver Island. Ride all year. Yes it is the wet coast. Twister from the other board suggested Galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals.

Dielectric grease the parts before reassembly. Sounds like a good plan. I am going to check and clean the rear sensor as well.

 
How much more salt is in the air if you live right on the ocean? Isn't it likely that excess salinity in addition to humidity plays some part here?

Iron oxidizes and forms rust, isn't the white crapola basically the aluminum eqiuvalent of rust?

Cheers,

Jim

 
Vancouver Island. Ride all year. Yes it is the wet coast. Twister from the other board suggested Galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals.Dielectric grease the parts before reassembly. Sounds like a good plan. I am going to check and clean the rear sensor as well.
Well, rust on iron is iron oxide and the white coating that forms on aluminum is aluminum oxide. The difference is that on aluminum the oxide actually forms a protective coating on the aluminum. The nasty stuff on the sensor is probably caused by dissimilar metals interacting and a coating of dielectric grease or thread anti-sieze should help.

I always use anti-sieze on any screws or bolts that thread into a different alloy, especially aluminum. Anti-sieze for things that will come apart again, loctite for things that I don't expect to take apart very often.

I don't have anti-lock so I can't say for sure but if these parts are subject to heat from braking then you want to be careful not to use lubricant that can melt and get onto your pads or rotors.

 
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