Replace mirrors .. but ..

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rogdeb

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Yes .... I searched 1st ... to no avail ! So :-

I've replaced both my mirrors over the years through one reason or another :rolleyes: ... but ... never gave a thought to torque values. I'm now replacing the stockers with FZ1 mirrors and checked the service manual for more information.

My question ...... I'm finding no reference to torque values or if I should even loctite them. Should I assume there are no references, or did I miss something? Any help would be appreciated Guys.

 
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Yes .... I searched 1st ... to no avail ! So :-I've replaced both my mirrors over the years through one reason or another :rolleyes: ... but ... never gave a thought to torque values. I'm now replacing the stockers with FZ1 mirrors and checked the service manual for more information.

My question ...... I'm finding no reference to torque values or if I should even loctite them. Should I assume there are no references, or did I miss something? Any help would be appreciated Guys.
Have you checked FJRTech or micapeak? They might have that info...

 
Yes .... I searched 1st ... to no avail ! So :-My question ...... I'm finding no reference to torque values or if I should even loctite them. Should I assume there are no references, or did I miss something? Any help would be appreciated Guys.
I would loctite them. I have had them come loose. After loctite, no problem.

 
If the fasteners are already assembled and tight you can apply Loctite "green" 290 which will wick in along the threads and lock the nuts. Plus it is easier to disassemble when required then "blue" Loctite but works just as well.

 
You should just give up on replacing those mirrors and sell me the FZ1 mirrors instead... :p

[SIZE=8pt]or use lock nuts or blue loctite and snug them down[/SIZE]

 
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In a non-Friday mode: Do NOT loc-tite the bodywork bolts!!!!!! It will degrade the plastic that the spring nuts slide onto, and turn them to powder. And there's no torque spec.

In full Friday mode:

WTF is it with this obsession with torque specs!!!??!??!??!??!?!?!?!

If it ain't squeezing a gasket or a bearing, it just needs to be tight. You know when it's tight. If you break the fastener or the part being fastened, it's too tight. If you can turn it without tools it's too loose. In between is what you want.

When you put a handle on a cabinet do you need a torque spec? When you put the cable on the back of your TV do you need a torque spec?

If you really don't know when a basic fastener is tight enough, get someone else to do your work . . . . . :D

Just to add, I have seen a rather low torque spec. The valve covers bolt on my '95 Probe GT were spec'd at 7 inch-ounces! The gasket was a soft pliable rubber-like material, which turns to bakelite as it ages (thus the replacement.) There was a fairly complicated tightening sequence, too!

 
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Definition of "Ride Quality" in straight-line, zero elevation Floriduh vs. other parts of the more civilized world (where they have actual curves in the road) may vary.

:p

 
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