Retiring (and Riding) in Mexico

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FJRBound

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Wife and I are thinking about retiring in or near San Miguel de Allende. I know that importing my '16 FJR on a permanent basis is impossible; I might have to sell it, then buy an FJ-09 once in Mexico (Yamaha does not sell the FJR in Mexico). Alternatively, could bring it into the country on a tourist visa for six months. Would then have to remove it from Mexico. Or renew the tourist visa at the border.

My question: are there any forum members living and riding in Mexico? I'd like to get some idea whether I'd even want to continue riding after moving to Mexico.

Thanks!

 
Others may chime in with some firsthand information.

However advrider.com is a great source for answers to those questions. Tons of useful info there.

 
ADVRIDER is some really good advice.

I don't live there, but I try to get down there to ride as often as possible. For me, riding would be one of the big reasons TO move down there.

 
Have a friend in Mexico. He says depending where you live, the roads are not as good as they are here. I'd sell the FJR and find something smaller, lighter, and able to handle dirt roads.

Maybe a Triumph Bonneville? ;)

But yeah, you should have a motorcycle there......why would you ever stop riding????

 
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I've never taken my FJR down there yet. If all goes according to plan, I'll fix that in about 2 weeks.

I bought a Super Tenere for the sole purpose of riding in Mexico and Alaska/Yukon, etc. Took my Wing to Mexico the first time and found out in short order that it wasn't the bike for there. The Tenere works out mighty fine. Big BMW presence down there.

 
I rode about 3,000 miles in Mexico in 2007 both on the mainland and the Baja. The roads varied from very smooth to two lane goat trails and the most common motorcycles I saw (by far) were BMW GS models. I was riding a GL1800 but had a very nice V-Strom at the time with a Wilbers shock...leaving it home was a big mistake.

 
Thanks for the feedback. I've owned a V-Strom and my last bike was a Super Ténéré, but I'm really more of an FJR guy. Neither of those other bikes ever saw much use off pavement.

Why would I ever stop riding? I guess if finances forced me to retire somewhere where the roads or some other factor (e.g., highway safety) made it impossible to enjoy riding. Hoping that's not the case in and around the state of Guanajuato. I'm really not interested in the whole ADV scene.

Thanks!

 
Well, I didn't get the FJR put back together in time, so I had to take the Super Tenere. Sometimes things just work out the way they're supposed to. The FJR really wasn't the bike for this trip. There are some perfectly spectacular surfaces in Mexico, and then there are some that are not fit for donkeys. Quite often the lines between the two are not very clearly defined.

There were a few reasons for making the trip south this time. The first was the ever-present need for the moto-psycho-therapy. In addition, the BigMoneyRally organizers, in their infinite wisdom, decided to put some pretty substantial bonus points in Mexico for (I believe) the first time ever. They did this to coincide with an Asphalt Rats Endurance Motorcycling/ IronButt Association Mexico event that was sponsored by the Resistencia Motorcycle Club in Queretero...the 2017 Resistencia BunBurner Gold Challenge.

While a BunBurner Gold, 1500 miles in 24 hours, is no small thing no matter where you are, in Mexico they seem to take an almost diabolical pride in making theirs especially challenging. Every scenery imaginable, temperature extremes, traffic, towns, 21 toll booths, mountains, deserts, military checkpoints...you name it. You get through one of these and you've done something.

Lots of talk about how dangerous Mexico is. I'm sure that is probably true somewhere, but all of my experience has been the exact opposite. I have never felt unsafe or threatened anywhere. This comes with a dose of common sense; I don't spend time in the border towns and I behave reasonably wherever I am. I find that once I get into the interior of the country, the people are as warm and friendly and helpful as you could hope for. Even the military checkpoints haven't posed any problems. More than anything, the soldiers are more interested in our bikes. I'm sure that these are fine young men serving their country, but it seems that the older I get...the younger they get; babies with fully automatic weapons. I'm happy for them to check out the bike to their heart's content as long as they are not angry at me. These exchanges are never more than a few minutes and usually end with smiles and waves.

Queretero is just north and a little west of Mexico City. It's situated in the mountains at about 6100 feet; clean, safe and becoming quite modern. I've been through there before, but had never stayed. This was a very enjoyable stay and I have plans to return.

The headquarters for the event was a really interesting place called the Black Dog House. It's an assemblage of shipping containers arranged in a U shape stacked 2 high which provides a courtyard in the middle which they have covered. One of the containers is a full bar (of course.) The container on the second level in the middle is the sound stage, and the others are different food venues. Kind of like having a ring of food trucks and the food is really good. From what I was able to gather, this place is considered "neutral ground" for all the motorcycle clubs. I saw many different clubs represented, but no tensions or posturing of any kind. Everyone was having a great time and getting along splendidly.

Started the clock at 5:04am on Friday morning and headed south toward Mexico City. The route turned west past Morelia to Guadalajara, and then north-ish through Aguascalientes, Zacatecas, and Durango. At Durango the route turned back toward the north/east through Torreon and Monclova before heading south back to Queretero. Made it back at 4:43. Back to the hotel for a hot shower and a cold beer (in the shower,) and a little sleep before the activities kicked back up.

Really enjoyed spending time with a fantastic bunch of folks. Some of the most incredible hosts you could imagine. Gracious an accommodating in ways I have no right to expect. I only hope I can do as good a job of making them feel as welcome when they come north.

Left early Sunday morning; back in the States right at dark. It was a good trip.

 
Thanks for the feedback. I've owned a V-Strom and my last bike was a Super Ténéré, but I'm really more of an FJR guy. Neither of those other bikes ever saw much use off pavement.
Why would I ever stop riding? I guess if finances forced me to retire somewhere where the roads or some other factor (e.g., highway safety) made it impossible to enjoy riding. Hoping that's not the case in and around the state of Guanajuato. I'm really not interested in the whole ADV scene.

Thanks!
You don't have to go off road to appreciate an ADV bike. Dirt roads and poorly maintained paved ones are far more navigable, and at a faster pace, on a bike with longer travel, softer suspension.

I would not consider retiring any place in the world that had issues that would require giving up riding a bike (for any reason) before my health does that. YMMV

 
Had the pleasure of riding The Baja peninsula in May / June 2013. 8 days of pure enjoyment. Roads were comparable to all roads in North America. FJR had no issues. I'd go back in a heart beat.

Rob

 
I've ridden through central Mexico from coast to coast a few times - roads are pretty good, secondary roads are in great shape (generally) but the topés (speed bumps) in the villages will tear the lower chin fairing and possibly the centre stand off your FJR at anything beyond a very slow walking speed, and a lot of them will probably damage you even at those low speeds. Definitely would consider something a bit more "adv-ish" down there. I've ridden R1200 GS and F700 GS down there and both are really well suited.

Hope this helps

Griff

 
Thanks, everyone, for your comments. We have airline tickets to fly into QRO and explore San Miguel de Allende and Guanajuato in April. I could be riding the FJR down there, more-or-less permanently, later this year.

 
Guanajuato is a really interesting town - really enjoyed the tunnels in and out of the centre, like riding through a mineshaft. Very cool!

Griff

 
I'm hoping to get down around the Guanajuato/Jalisco area to do a little sightseeing/retirement scouting this fall. Maybe I'll run into you.

 
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