Reusable oil filters

[kootenayguy]

I am a huge believer in regular oil changes. I have seen stainless steel, reusable oil filters for sale in many magazines, anyone have any experiances with these?

 

[RaYzerman19]

First of all their filter media doesn't trap small enough particles as compared to good regular filters. Secondly, if you add up the cost and inconvenience of cleaning these things, you might find you can't justify it. IMHO, stick to good regular filters, and no Frams!

 

[Catfish]

I've been using them on several bikes (FJR, DRZ, KTM 950, all sorts of KLR's, etc.) for years and I've been selling the Scotts stainless steel filters for years also.

I like not having to worry if I have a filter "on the shelf" for my next oil change.

I take the stainless element and drop it in a plastic container (Chinese food soup containers work wonderfully) with some degreaser.

Swish it around, spray it with some contact cleaner or rinse it with tap water then some compressed air to dry it out.

I've had a couple of bike that I've ended up with 2 stainless filters for and it's really nice to have one clean and dry in a container ready to go in but I wouldn't spend the money to do it.

I think to set that up for the FJR would cost you an extra $80.

 

[happyPuppy]

Filters are pretty cheap, I would not risk it myself.

 

[Patriot]

no no no...I don't believe those reusable filters are the preferred yellow color...no way shud they be adorned on a Feej...

 

[Fred W]

Filters are pretty cheap, I would not risk bother with it myself.

Phicst.

There's a reason it comes with a spin on disposable filter: Convenience.

 

[FJRay]

I have used the Oberg and the Racor in industrial and marine. The filtering is fine but for the bike and as cheap as good filters I wouldn't bother.

 

[SPORT]

As an aviation mechanic I'd say why? Filters are cheap. Messing with re-usable filters/screens is messy and time consuming.

Responding to Yzerman19, Although I agree that some filters do not block as much contaminates, I will argue that it is not necessary either. The only real contaminates needing to be blocked would be those that a re-usable screen can catch. Contaminates that damage an engine are things like steel slivers or chunks from a failing oil pump, cylinder rings or the like. Anything smaller will more than likely filter through without damage. If anyone mentions sludge as a possibility, I'd say find a new oil.

I only replace my oil filter ever 6,000 miles while the oil is serviced every 3,00 0miles. We cut open and inspected filters EVERY oil service and the ONLY time we ever had build up in a filter is when we already knew something was wrong (i.e. rings, valves, bearings, metal slivers from oil pump gears, or the like~things that would clog a filter). That is to say, as longs as the bike is performing and sounding as it should, I don't worry about servicing the filter every 3,000 miles. I wouldn't advocate this to everyone, it's just what I do based on nearly 20 years of turning wrenches.

I won't enter into a debate over this only because it is based primarily on my years of personal experience mixed with some professional education.

 

[FJRay]

Come on now. We haven't had a good oil argument in a long time. I can't argue much as I have 40+ years of wrenching and don't see much wrong with your logic. I do the filter each time cause its easy and cheap but I do the final drive also just because its there and the drain pan is already dirty . I do like extra virgin oil.

 

[SPORT]

Come on now. We haven't had a good oil argument in a long time. I can't argue much as I have 40+ years of wrenching and don't see much wrong with your logic. I do the filter each time cause its easy and cheap but I do the final drive also just because its there and the drain pan is already dirty . I do like extra virgin oil.

Now FJRay, we all know that feelings get hurt when personal bias' are torn apart, spit on, wrung through the ringer, stepped on and flushed down the toilet. We ned to show sensitivity, compassion, and above all maturity.

Awe, #$*! you all! Let the debate begin. :assassin:

 

[03HiYoSilver]

Also, I would not go the after market filter system if you have a YES Warranty program in place.

This is one sure way to get some warranty work possibly denied... not worth the risk.

After the warranty, then have at it.

 

[protondecay123]

Also, I would not go the after market filter system if you have a YES Warranty program in place.
This is one sure way to get some warranty work possibly denied... not worth the risk.

After the warranty, then have at it.

I have the Scott's on my '05. I just get the oil I want and get after it. While the oil is draining I wash and dry the filter. Nothing to it.

 

[JamesK]

I've seen the re-usable filters too at $80 and read the stories about how they may not be as good at filtering... But as others have said, a good quality filter is so cheap these days that why bother, take a chance with YES, and in general. You can buy a Purolator PL14612 PureONE 2 pack for $6.99 on Amazon, when they have sales, which is often.

And besides don't we have a responsibility to live up to our designation as a disposable society, I'm sure doing my part

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

As an aviation mechanic ...I only replace my oil filter ever 6,000 miles while the oil is serviced every 3,000miles.

...it's just what I do based on nearly 20 years of turning wrenches.

I won't enter into a debate over this only because it is based primarily on my years of personal experience mixed with some professional education.

Certified MSF coach for the state of PA since 2004

...I have 40+ years of wrenching ...I do the filter each time ...I do the final drive also ...

With all this wealth of experience on display, what do you guys think of MamaYama's FJR (owner's manual) periodic maintenance directives of: engine oil change every 4000 miles, oil filter change every 8000 miles, and final gear oil change every 16000 miles?

Too late...? Too soon...? Don't know...?

Is MamaYama 'playing it safe' (too conservative)? Or, they may not be primarily concerned with your motorcycle's health (too long/don't care)? Or, they don't have a clue...?

 

[FJRay]

In the case of our type bike where the oil lubricates the clutch and transmision, I think regular changes are needed to get the suspended particules out of the system. As far as the interval, I think it depends a lot on driving conditions. I wouldn't hesitate to extend it if all I did was endless hiway miles but if constsant city and stop and go is the case then **** builds up faster so a shorter interval is better. In some large industrilal applicationns the oil isn't changed but filtered and run through a centrifuge to remove particules and then more additives are used to bring things up to the right levels and it goes right back into service I do my stuff at 3,000 miles intervals because I like to except my tractor and it gets fresh stuff every 50 hours of engine load time. I do the filter every time because they are cheap and I don't have xray vision to see what is in there tht may be plugging up the works. My 48 Ford doesn't have a filter.

 

[RaYzerman19]

Come on now. We haven't had a good oil argument in a long time. I can't argue much as I have 40+ years of wrenching and don't see much wrong with your logic. I do the filter each time cause its easy and cheap but I do the final drive also just because its there and the drain pan is already dirty . I do like extra virgin oil.

Now FJRay, we all know that feelings get hurt when personal bias' are torn apart, spit on, wrung through the ringer, stepped on and flushed down the toilet. We ned to show sensitivity, compassion, and above all maturity.

Awe, #$*! you all! Let the debate begin. :assassin:

Agree with you, Sport. We often debate theory, and the flaw is not applying what real world experience and conditions are. But, nothing like a good debate. I gather most filters will take out 30 micron particles (or perhaps a bit bigger in the case of reusables), whereas a premium filter like a PureOne may take out much smaller. Just for argument's sake, as filter material starts to clog up, there is a point at which it is clogged and doesn't the by-pass valve kick in, causing unfiltered oil to be circulated? Of course, providing we're following recommended oil and filter change intervals, none of our engines are that dirty, nor do the filters ever reach that clogged stage. However, the large particle filters are less likely to clog than the finer particle filters.........

Now, in the practical sense, we need to know what particle size starts to become harmful, or, to put it in perspective, it might help to understand just exactly how big 30 microns is (it is very small). The filter manufacturers have all decided for us a happy medium, then try to confuse us with marketing strategies..... That FRAM "you can pay me now or pay me later" was quite the campaign, yeah?