ionbeam
2 FUN
FJRocha wrote in another thread
There are many fabric based riding outfits available that perform as well as or better than leather with one exception -- the textile based outfits are ONE AND DONE, whereas leather can take repeated get-offs. Many textile products actually have better armor over vulnerable areas. When you meet the pavement unexpectedly you want 3 things, impact protection, abrasion strength and tear strength. Look for pliable dense foam padding inserts for impact protection. Look for quality safety lock stitching; your gear is only as strong as it’s seams.
Stay away from any materials that have a Polyurethane coating that restricts breathing and can melt into the skin when sliding on asphalt. Polyurethane coatings make the material hold water longer and reduces the tear and abrasion strength by making the material stiff and bulky. When other companies use words like Ballistic, Hypertex, and Rocktex they are hiding the actual material name. Using Polyester or standard nylon for riding apparel is not safe. If you have a jacket or pant made in a foreign country material content must be shown.
Fabric riding clothing usually offers high quality armor in strategic areas. Check the type and rating of the armor. Check for sleeve straps that let you position the armor and hold it in place. Look for pockets so the armor can be removed for washing.
Weak material seams will make strong material useless, make sure the seams are Safety-Lock Stitch. Avoid any single needle stitching. Look for seams to be stitched using nylon thread with over 100 lbs tear strength. All seams should be double stitched on the outside.
Most fabric suits offer zip in liners which can be waterproof and insulated enough to make heated apparel unnecessary.
In order to give it the proper motorcycle abrasion strength the fabric must be woven together with Cordura and Lycra, eg Schoeller Keprotec. These are the only suits approved for road racing other than leather. Many names are given to types of Nylon to make it sound impressive. Only Cordura Nylon or Dynatec of 620 Denier or above is suitable for motorcycle gear. Denier refers to the thickness of the fibers in the weave, higher denier means higher abrasion and tear strength. Be aware that due to cost, some makers coat their nylon with a layer of polypropylene that under heavy pavement friction can melt into your skin.
Leather has long been a good protective fabric. However, many variables can effect its’ quality including, the type, age and diet of the animal it came from. Different methods used to clean, tan and dye the leather effect it as well. Unfortunately the best way to tell if the garment is made of good leather is to look at the price tag. Good leather costs more and that cost is passed on to the consumer. Leather should be worn snug because when leather folds it’s tear strength lowers considerably. As an organic material leather dries out and looses it’s flexibility over time. In fact each time leather gets wet and dries it can loose up to 20% of it’s tear and abrasion strength. If you purchase leather, get the best you can and care for it habitually, even if it’s just hanging in the closet.
<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>Tear and Abrasion Strength by the Numbers</span>
=========================================
At the end of the above posting on the -- err, other board, I lost all control and added this appalling line and link that resulted in my getting banned, it went someting like this:
You can get more information on Aerostitch riding suits here.
Neuman (Alfred E.???) is now protecting the Other Site from information like this.
Bad 'n Banned Alan :haha:
So, here it is --
There are many fabric based riding outfits available that perform as well as or better than leather with one exception -- the textile based outfits are ONE AND DONE, whereas leather can take repeated get-offs. Many textile products actually have better armor over vulnerable areas. When you meet the pavement unexpectedly you want 3 things, impact protection, abrasion strength and tear strength. Look for pliable dense foam padding inserts for impact protection. Look for quality safety lock stitching; your gear is only as strong as it’s seams.
Stay away from any materials that have a Polyurethane coating that restricts breathing and can melt into the skin when sliding on asphalt. Polyurethane coatings make the material hold water longer and reduces the tear and abrasion strength by making the material stiff and bulky. When other companies use words like Ballistic, Hypertex, and Rocktex they are hiding the actual material name. Using Polyester or standard nylon for riding apparel is not safe. If you have a jacket or pant made in a foreign country material content must be shown.
Fabric riding clothing usually offers high quality armor in strategic areas. Check the type and rating of the armor. Check for sleeve straps that let you position the armor and hold it in place. Look for pockets so the armor can be removed for washing.
Weak material seams will make strong material useless, make sure the seams are Safety-Lock Stitch. Avoid any single needle stitching. Look for seams to be stitched using nylon thread with over 100 lbs tear strength. All seams should be double stitched on the outside.
Most fabric suits offer zip in liners which can be waterproof and insulated enough to make heated apparel unnecessary.
In order to give it the proper motorcycle abrasion strength the fabric must be woven together with Cordura and Lycra, eg Schoeller Keprotec. These are the only suits approved for road racing other than leather. Many names are given to types of Nylon to make it sound impressive. Only Cordura Nylon or Dynatec of 620 Denier or above is suitable for motorcycle gear. Denier refers to the thickness of the fibers in the weave, higher denier means higher abrasion and tear strength. Be aware that due to cost, some makers coat their nylon with a layer of polypropylene that under heavy pavement friction can melt into your skin.
Leather has long been a good protective fabric. However, many variables can effect its’ quality including, the type, age and diet of the animal it came from. Different methods used to clean, tan and dye the leather effect it as well. Unfortunately the best way to tell if the garment is made of good leather is to look at the price tag. Good leather costs more and that cost is passed on to the consumer. Leather should be worn snug because when leather folds it’s tear strength lowers considerably. As an organic material leather dries out and looses it’s flexibility over time. In fact each time leather gets wet and dries it can loose up to 20% of it’s tear and abrasion strength. If you purchase leather, get the best you can and care for it habitually, even if it’s just hanging in the closet.
<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>Tear and Abrasion Strength by the Numbers</span>
=========================================
At the end of the above posting on the -- err, other board, I lost all control and added this appalling line and link that resulted in my getting banned, it went someting like this:
You can get more information on Aerostitch riding suits here.
Neuman (Alfred E.???) is now protecting the Other Site from information like this.
Bad 'n Banned Alan :haha:
Last edited by a moderator:
