Room For Risers - 06?

[Maywannayamaha1300]

Painman....you say they allow the bars to be wider. How exactly is that so? I know there are 3 sets of parallel holes for the 2 pins under each bar. Don't you have to use the pins in parallel? Or can you use one hole from one row and one from another?

 

[drhines]

Just curious, on the install sheet of the risers it talks of adjusting the bars to the position you want and then tighten the nut and bolt down with a torque wrench to "23 Nm." It then goes on to mention the Yamaha torque specs for the handlebar fasteners are "17mm Nut - 47Ft-Lbs and the 8mmCap Screw - 17Ft-Lbs." Question is what the heck is "23 Nm?" PM. <>< :blink:

Painman

Thanks for calling this to my attention on the torque specs. 23 Nm is the torque spec for 05 and previous model handlebar bolts. I put that in my instructions since I did not have the new 06 specs at time of writing and was going to go back later and change which evidently I forgot to do. It is still correct for the cap screw but the 17mm nut is 47 Ft-Lbs or 64 Nm.

The correct torque value is in the Supplement instructions.

8mm Socket Head Cap Screw torque is 23Nm or 17 Ft-Lbs

17mm Nut torque is 47 Ft-Lbs or 64 Nm

These are the values in the Yamaha spec book.

Warchild state above that 23Nm was 31.5 Ft-Lbs. According to my calculations that would not be correct.

1Nm = 0.73756 Ft-Lbs, therefore 23Nm*0.73756=17 Ft.-Lbs

Someone correct me here, if I am wrong.

Guess I will spend the rest of this rainy morning in Arkansas emailing everyone to make sure they understand instead of playing golf.

Doug Hines

 

[Pappy]

For those hard-to-find conversions (newton-meters to foot-pounds for example)

Handy-Dandy Online Unit Converter.

I liked the risers but am a little nervous about the lack of an anti-rotation feature. Other than a huge torque value, there's no way to prevent the handlebars from moving (resulting in warnings not to use them for tiedown). Of course they'll be fine under normal conditions but I'd worry about what would happen if the bike was dropped or what you'd do if you had to trailer it.

Nice finish and complete kit.

Offtopic Comment

When Greygoose rolled into my garage, I was amazed at how hot the bike was. I honestly think my '05 is cooler with all the heat mods I've done to it.

Pappy

 

[drhines]

For those hard-to-find conversions (newton-meters to foot-pounds for example)
Handy-Dandy Online Unit Converter.

I liked the risers but am a little nervous about the lack of an anti-rotation feature. Other than a huge torque value, there's no way to prevent the handlebars from moving (resulting in warnings not to use them for tiedown). Of course they'll be fine under normal conditions but I'd worry about what would happen if the bike was dropped or what you'd do if you had to trailer it.

Nice finish and complete kit.

Offtopic Comment

When Greygoose rolled into my garage, I was amazed at how hot the bike was. I honestly think my '05 is cooler with all the heat mods I've done to it.

Pappy

In reference to Pappy's lack of an anti-rotation feature on the 06 Risers I have the following. At first I was going to put pins in the bottom of the risers for anti-rotation but that would not allow you the feature of being able to spread or narrow up the handlebars to your liking. Many riders complain about the angle the wrist meet the grips on the FJR, and with this design you can narrow the bars up and really get them close to you or spread them out. I just thought that more purchasers would appreciate this option over being able to tie their bike down on a trailer by the handlebars. I personally never tie a bike down by the handlebars anyway. The FJR works nice with soft ties around the fork brace up under the nose cowling. In reference to what happens if the bike was dropped, I did not test this, but if someone would like to donate their bike for testing we can find out. Yamaha has a torque spec of 47 ft-lbs on the 17mm nut. That is pretty high torque for a handlebar nut and makes the bars very stable under normal operating conditions. However, if you want to plan for the event, put the small allen, 17mm socket, 6mm hex drive in your tool kit. Then if you do drop it and it moves, you can just loosen it up, put it back in the right place, and tighten it down again.

Doug Hines

 

[painman]

Painman....you say they allow the bars to be wider. How exactly is that so? I know there are 3 sets of parallel holes for the 2 pins under each bar. Don't you have to use the pins in parallel? Or can you use one hole from one row and one from another?

Maywannayamaha1300, Doug beat me to the answer. I mounted the new risers for the 06 in the rear position but now because of the design on the risers I am able to spread the bars out to a wider position that you weren't able to do before. You have to be careful doing this as you don't want to bind the pins in the bars or the slider nut when you torque them down. Its all in the instructions with the risers. I just used my finger to locate the adjusting nut under the top tree and moved the nut as far to the rear as possible on both sides which moves the bars out and secured the fasteners down. You do not want to just grab the end of the bars to do this as you will bind the fasteners. Just make sure everything is in align. And you want to do one bar at a time with one side tightened down while you do the other. Just be careful and it will work well. I might say I went for a test ride this morning and the new position is the cat's meow. PM. <><

 

[bmwhd]

OK, please:

Let's see some install photos and pics of the finished (and I assume powdercoated) risers!

 

[HIS2006]

Just curious, on the install sheet of the risers it talks of adjusting the bars to the position you want and then tighten the nut and bolt down with a torque wrench to "23 Nm." It then goes on to mention the Yamaha torque specs for the handlebar fasteners are "17mm Nut - 47Ft-Lbs and the 8mmCap Screw - 17Ft-Lbs." Question is what the heck is "23 Nm?" PM. <>< :blink:

Painman

Thanks for calling this to my attention on the torque specs. 23 Nm is the torque spec for 05 and previous model handlebar bolts. I put that in my instructions since I did not have the new 06 specs at time of writing and was going to go back later and change which evidently I forgot to do. It is still correct for the cap screw but the 17mm nut is 47 Ft-Lbs or 64 Nm.

The correct torque value is in the Supplement instructions.

8mm Socket Head Cap Screw torque is 23Nm or 17 Ft-Lbs

17mm Nut torque is 47 Ft-Lbs or 64 Nm

These are the values in the Yamaha spec book.

Warchild state above that 23Nm was 31.5 Ft-Lbs. According to my calculations that would not be correct.

1Nm = 0.73756 Ft-Lbs, therefore 23Nm*0.73756=17 Ft.-Lbs

Someone correct me here, if I am wrong.

Guess I will spend the rest of this rainy morning in Arkansas emailing everyone to make sure they understand instead of playing golf.

Doug Hines

Web site with a Torque Conversion Calculator.

https://www.sciencelab.com/data/conversions...onversion.shtml

Same web site with all kinds of Conversion Calculators.

https://www.sciencelab.com/data/conversion.shtml

 

[Stiltz]

You guys are getting me scared here about the cable lengths. If they don't fit then Yamaha has a quality control issue with their cable length's because mine went on with absolutely no problem. However, as I have told others, my bike is the only one around here in Arkansas that I can test, and it wouldn't be the first time I've seen a manufacturer have such problems. According to my measurements you only have to pull the handlebar 1" higher to get it over the new mounting stud than you do the original Yamaha stud, then the handlebar is lowered over the stud giving more slack in the cables.
Time will tell as the first 30 sets of risers will be shipped out tomorrow. That is if I can get off the forum and get your risers packaged and addressed. Let me know how your install goes.

Doug Hines

Got my Risers on friday and put them on right away. NO cable issues. :clapping:

 

[kaitsdad]

Got them yesterday (Thanks, Mr. Hines !! )

Put them on today. Had to snip a single ty-wrap to free up some slack for the right handlebar.

Muy Muy Bueno. My wrists are now at a very comfortable angle.

Long ride tomorrow (It's Father's day, after all !! ) so it's the litmus test.

Lookin forward to it.