Rostra Cruise Control Insall Questions

[Richouse]

I just got one of these jewels and about to start the install. I have read through this post but its still leaves some questions for me.

Ed says he just connects the red and brown wires together so the unit is always on. 1st. where did he connect these 2 wires to on the bike? 2nd. I would like to be able to turn the cruise on and off since I'm going to use the control pad that came with it. So where should I hook these wires independently? I guess installed on a bike the preferred method would be hooking them together. I'm just wondering where a good switched power source is? and what does the wire look like.

 

[wfooshee]

Hooking the brown and red wires together forces the unit to always on if power is applied to those wires.

Pick up power at the blue wire going to the running lights. That's 12 volts with key on.

If you're adding, or planning to add, a lot of electrical devices, consider installing a fuse block as your first add-on. It gives you power distribution to future additions without having to run something down every time.

There is no harm in forcing the unit to always on by connecting brown and red together. It will disengage with brakes or clutch, and there's always the bike's kill switch. The cruise draws a very small amount of current, and that draw is microscopic if it's not engaged.

 

[Richouse]

ok, I have another question...

I am using the keypad that came with the kit. It has 6 wires to it. Red, Brown, Yellow, Grey, Green, Black.

I know what all are for except the Grey and Brown. I know one is a keypad back light but not sure which one (grey I think) if so what is brown?

 

[ionbeam]

ok, I have another question...

I am using the keypad that came with the kit. It has 6 wires to it. Red, Brown, Yellow, Grey, Green, Black.

I know what all are for except the Grey and Brown. I know one is a keypad back light but not sure which one (grey I think) if so what is brown?

The Red, Brown, Yellow and Green wires get inserted into the 4 pin connector, there should be a color coded label on the connector. The Grey wire goes to switched ignition voltage to supply power for the LEDs on the keypad buttons. The Grey wire can simply be tied to the Orange wire. The Black wire goes to ground.

Red = 1

Brown = 2

Green = 3

Yellow = 4

Brown, Green and Yellow will go to the servo. The Red wire will exit the servo side of the connector connector as an Orange wire that goes to switched ignition power.

 

[Richouse]

ok, got the wiring figured out. Now for the dip switch settings...

I have an '07A so here is what I think?

Gain: dips 1&2: off

Pulses/mile: dips 3,4,5,and 6: all on (for highest pulse rate)

Engine/setup timer: dips 7,8,9: Assuming a 4 cylinder setting but which one High or Extra High???????

VSS Source: dip: 10 on?? (for square wave input. not sure on this one???)

Transmission: dip: 11 off (manual trans.)

Control Switch: dip 12: on/closed (I decided to use some radio shack momentary buttons that are closed until pushed)

Someone please verify these dip switch settings and let me know about the ones I don't know....

Thanks Guys!!!

Richard

 

[ionbeam]

Edit: Rostra Electronic Cruise Control

:blink: Does your Rostra really have DIP switches 8 - 12?

 

[wfooshee]

:blink: Does your Rostra really have DIP switches 8 - 12?

Indeed it does. Manual for Rostra. Not sure it's the same unit he has exactly, and the switches are nothing like the AVCC switches.

I would think the first two switches should be set for low or even extra low sensitivity. That would equate to low-weight/high-power. If sensitivity is too high, the thing will throw the throttle around pretty hard.

Pulses per mile may actually be up near the max. (Unlike the AVCC, which can't even read the Feej's VSS and relies on tach only, the Rostra requires a speed input, either from the VSS or from another sensor, like a magnet kit on a wheel.)

Setup timer should be 4-cyl low, again to keep it from jerking the throttle on set. That may need to be adjusted up.

Manual tranny, of course, and no idea on sine wave vs. square wave.

I think Alan's refernces to the orange wire go out the window, too, as the Rostra's pad doesn't have an orange wire, doesn't look like.

All this is going by the manual I found. If it's the wrong manual, give us the Rostra's model number and maybe we can find the right manual and give you better answers.

 

[Richouse]

I got it from Murphskit. This One..

Part Number: 250-1223

 

[wfooshee]

That is indeed the manual I linked in my previous post, so those things I said should apply.

 

[Richouse]

I really appreciate all the help I am getting here but I still have some issues...

I am thinking its the buttons I have. I bought them from radio shack and they are closed when not pushed.(current CAN go through when button is not pushed) and open when pushed.

I may need the other kind. ie. Open when not pushed and closed when pushed.

Unit is getting power and has a good ground but will not do anything. will not go into diagnostic mode.

 

[Richouse]

It was the buttons... I needed the normally open buttons. I got it to the Diag. function and everything tested ok. went for a test ride and it engaged but it pulses. It speeds up 4-5mph then slows down 4-5mph, up and down over and over.

I read a post earlier that 8cyl. low should be used. I'll try that setting and see...

 

[Zorlac]

I don't know which Rat Shaq push buttons you're using but I've found some of their momentary push buttons to be POS.

FWIW, I'd be shopping at Digikey or Allied for some real PB's.

 

[bhick]

It was the buttons... I needed the normally open buttons. I got it to the Diag. function and everything tested ok. went for a test ride and it engaged but it pulses. It speeds up 4-5mph then slows down 4-5mph, up and down over and over.

I read a post earlier that 8cyl. low should be used. I'll try that setting and see...

Rich, If you have the electronic rostra as I do all switches are off except 7 , I have 2 magnets installed on rear wheel so that will change your switch for signal type. I tried to use the vss on my 06 abs, but the yellow/white wire at the ecm wouldn't work. Also very little slack in the throttle when closed,just a touch. Mine increases one mph, then settles down and locks in.I used the rostra control, relay from battery controled by lights, relay on brake wire,no tach wired just brake shut down.

 

[Richouse]

It was the buttons... I needed the normally open buttons. I got it to the Diag. function and everything tested ok. went for a test ride and it engaged but it pulses. It speeds up 4-5mph then slows down 4-5mph, up and down over and over.

I read a post earlier that 8cyl. low should be used. I'll try that setting and see...

Rich, If you have the electronic rostra as I do all switches are off except 7 , I have 2 magnets installed on rear wheel so that will change your switch for signal type. I tried to use the vss on my 06 abs, but the yellow/white wire at the ecm wouldn't work. Also very little slack in the throttle when closed,just a touch. Mine increases one mph, then settles down and locks in.I used the rostra control, relay from battery controled by lights, relay on brake wire,no tach wired just brake shut down.

When you tried to use the VSS wire and it didn't work what did it do? Did it now work at all or what???

Also, Has anyone hooked up the Tach wire or the Neutral Safety switch wire? If so where does it hook to?

If they are not connected and the bike is clutched will the cruise cut off? I know the audiovox cc-100 will...

 

[wfooshee]

You will not need the neutral wire. That's for cars with an automatic transmission, to keep it from running the engine if the shifter gets bumped out of Drive.

There is no conceivable purpose on a mtorcycle for the cruise to know when it's in neutral, since it can't be unless you downshift at least three times first, which will in itself disengage the cruise.

You will need the tach wire, which is how it knows you've hit the clutch. Engine will go up but road speed won't, and it disengages.

 

[Richouse]

You will need the tach wire, which is how it knows you've hit the clutch. Engine will go up but road speed won't, and it disengages.

Ok where do I connect the tach wire? Surly there is a wire at the ECU I can tap into. Do you know which one???

Thanks,

 

[wfooshee]

One of the ignition coils up front, behind the battery. One of the coils has a gray wire with a red stripe. That's the one.

That wire is present at the ECU, but it's lots easier to get to at the coil.

 

[Richouse]

One of the ignition coils up front, behind the battery. One of the coils has a gray wire with a red stripe. That's the one.

That wire is present at the ECU, but it's lots easier to get to at the coil.

I have looked and looked with no avail for a wiring diagram for the ECU. I really appreciate all the help. All of my electrical connections are down by the ECU so hopefully it won't be a problem finding that wire. That wire doesn't change colors from the coil to the ECU that you know of?? So if I find a gray wire with a red stripe at the ECU that's it??

 

[wfooshee]

Should be.