Routing Power to the Rear Seats?

[BruceWA]

HELP

I have spent some time searching and have not found an answer. Spent the time and removed the dash and side panels in preparation to install a power distribution setup. Unfortunately I have opted for the PDM60 and am somewhat confounded as to how to run the power to the rear seat compartments. Did note some of you folks have gone under the tank and I'm beginning to think that I should remove the tank to look. Anyone with info and a good plan it would be much appreciated, as always some pictures would also be great.

If you didn't note this is a 2013 FJR.

My thanks!!

Bruce

 

[sickchilly]

When I installed my Eastern Beaver distro block, I ran from the battery under the tank along the right side frame and then into the under seat compartment. I did not remove the tank, just popped it up in front. Remove seats, two bolts in front of the tank and the panel over the battery. Easy peasy.

 

[BruceWA]

Thanks Sick! That will be my next move, still have to run leads back to the front for several of the FARKLES. Man, Yamaha doesn't spare the fasteners!

Was shocked at how many and varied they are, sheesh. No doubt it will be an adventure trying to remember what went where!?

How about some others offering their wisdom too!!

 

[sickchilly]

It's not that rough. Most parts will only go back where they came from. If you have to, get a couple sheets of paper and draw a grid on them. Then label the grid by part location and place the parts in their square. As long as you don't dump the sheet off the table, you'll easily be able to see where each fastener came from.

 

[BkerChuck]

I've used one of those dry erase markers in the past. Put a dot on a bolt and a corresponding dot on the panel where it goes. It cleans off real easy and makes it pretty simple to keep track.

 

[Twinrivers]

Out of curiosity what are you powering under the rear seat? Then again if your answer is likely to cost me money then forget I asked

 

[BruceWA]

Out of curiosity what are you powering under the rear seat? Then again if your answer is likely to cost me money then forget I asked

The PDM60 fits nicely under the riders seat, lots of room and it will make it accessible should I need to check any faults. No charge for my answer

. Just don't want to see my new shiny FJR wind up a as ball of fire.

 

[Niehart]

Bruce, I bought my wire at a local boat store. They have very well insulated wire in all sizes.

 

[littlefish]

Bruce, I bought my wire at a local boat store. They have very well insulated wire in all sizes.

Yes, marine supply stores have lots of good wire to use for this application. You need 10ga from the battery to the fuse block for a 30a service, 12 ga will get you 20a and 14ga will get you 15a back in the back. You protect this service wire run with an inline fuse on the hot lead. Match the fuse holder and fuse size with the size of the wire you run. FWIW, I ran 12 ga wire for a 20a service.

You will also need some correct wire size ring terminals with holes to match the bolt size on the battery terminal and then on the other end attaching to the fuse block. You want to crimp these or crimp and solder. Just don't solder only because heat alone can cause the connections to come lose. If you're not sure what I'm talking about, have the marine supply store make them for you!

 

[BruceWA]

Bruce, I bought my wire at a local boat store. They have very well insulated wire in all sizes.

Yes, marine supply stores have lots of good wire to use for this application. You need 10ga from the battery to the fuse block for a 30a service, 12 ga will get you 20a and 14ga will get you 15a back in the back. You protect this service wire run with an inline fuse on the hot lead. Match the fuse holder and fuse size with the size of the wire you run. FWIW, I ran 12 ga wire for a 20a service.

You will also need some correct wire size ring terminals with holes to match the bolt size on the battery terminal and then on the other end attaching to the fuse block. You want to crimp these or crimp and solder. Just don't solder only because heat alone can cause the connections to come lose. If you're not sure what I'm talking about, have the marine supply store make them for you!

I'll check out our local boat shop, the only one. Thinking about using PosiTaps to tie into the battery instead of the terminals.

 

[escapefjrtist]

I'd use ring terminals to tie into the battery, more secure and better connection. Use Posi-taps for light duty needs (GPS, radar, etc.) and relay triggers.

Bruce, the PNW Tech Day will be coming up in March / April. They'll be plenty of FJRs to check out and see how various farkles have been added. It's a can't miss event! Hope the see you there.

--G

 

[littlefish]

I'd use ring terminals to tie into the battery, more secure and better connection. Use Posi-taps for light duty needs (GPS, radar, etc.) and relay triggers.

The other concern with the taps is amperage rating. You don't want a heapin' hunk of molten plastic and electrically hot metal underneath your fairing, eh?

 

[ionbeam]

Out of curiosity what are you powering under the rear seat? Then again if your answer is likely to cost me money then forget I asked

The PDM60 fits nicely under the riders seat, lots of room and it will make it accessible should I need to check any faults. No charge for my answer

. Just don't want to see my new shiny FJR wind up a as ball of fire.

Translation: PDM60 = solid state power distribution module (fuse block) rated for 60 amps. Eastern Beaver, Electrical Connection, FuzeBlock, and Centech are some of the common motorcycle power distribution solutions.

 

[Bungie]

It's Friday.

Got a new VibeRider did ya?

 

[johnny80s]

Bruce, I bought my wire at a local boat store. They have very well insulated wire in all sizes.

Yes, marine supply stores have lots of good wire to use for this application. You need 10ga from the battery to the fuse block for a 30a service, 12 ga will get you 20a and 14ga will get you 15a back in the back. You protect this service wire run with an inline fuse on the hot lead. Match the fuse holder and fuse size with the size of the wire you run. FWIW, I ran 12 ga wire for a 20a service.

You will also need some correct wire size ring terminals with holes to match the bolt size on the battery terminal and then on the other end attaching to the fuse block. You want to crimp these or crimp and solder. Just don't solder only because heat alone can cause the connections to come lose. If you're not sure what I'm talking about, have the marine supply store make them for you!

I'll check out our local boat shop, the only one. Thinking about using PosiTaps to tie into the battery instead of the terminals.

Those would be some big posi-taps. Use ring terminals.

 

[BruceWA]

Off to the boat shop for more wire (and maybe a terminal block or 2). Still wish someone else would volunteer exactly where they ran the wires to the rear end. Come on you Fuzeblock and other users, you still had this same issue.

 

[mcatrophy]

Still wish someone else would volunteer exactly where they ran the wires to the rear end. Come on you Fuzeblock and other users, you still had this same issue.

I expect Yamaha ran their wires identically to the Gen II. In which case the best option would be to route them alongside their loom. My post here shows how I routed my wires.

 

[BruceWA]

Still wish someone else would volunteer exactly where they ran the wires to the rear end. Come on you Fuzeblock and other users, you still had this same issue.

I expect Yamaha ran their wires identically to the Gen II. In which case the best option would be to route them alongside their loom. My post here shows how I routed my wires.

Looked at those pix, and very good job. Unfortunately it appears the harness goes down the left (other side on my bike) There is a harness on the right side but it does not go all the way to the front.

Have spent some time and now think I have a plan

, but I guess we'll find out later. Have a good ground under the seat so no need to run a ground wire also. Looks like I can go above the fuel tank and then over to the battery area. Going to try and make it look good, BUT I have my doubts. But then again, no one can see it.

Mounted a Powerlet outlet on the left side of the passenger footrests, tight squeeze but it fit into the under seat area. And the side case still fits!

Thanks for the help mcatrophy and others too.!!

Last igtem (for now

) will be using ring terminal lugs.

 

[BruceWA]

Still wish someone else would volunteer exactly where they ran the wires to the rear end. Come on you Fuzeblock and other users, you still had this same issue.

I expect Yamaha ran their wires identically to the Gen II. In which case the best option would be to route them alongside their loom. My post here shows how I routed my wires.

Looked at those pix, and very good job. Unfortunately it appears the harness goes down the left (other side on my bike) There is a harness on the right side but it does not go all the way to the front.

Have spent some time and now think I have a plan

, but I guess we'll find out later. Have a good ground under the seat so no need to run a ground wire also. Looks like I can go above the fuel tank and then over to the battery area. Going to try and make it look good, BUT I have my doubts. But then again, no one can see it.

Mounted a Powerlet outlet on the left side of the passenger footrests, tight squeeze but it fit into the under seat area. And the side case still fits!

Thanks for the help mcatrophy and others too.!!

Last igtem (for now

) will be using ring terminal lugs.

Actually I'll run it BETWEEN the engine /fuel tank, NOT over the fuel tank.