Rust in gas tank, now what?

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I don't think a replacement tank would have been under the $50.00 I paid for the POR-15 kit. While I would have loved to avoid doing the work, right now money is even tighter than time to work on the bike, which means it is getting REALLY tight. I am done with farkles for a long time now, and I just want to get the bike on the road once the fooking snow melts.

 
I don't think a replacement tank would have been under the $50.00 I paid for the POR-15 kit. While I would have loved to avoid doing the work, right now money is even tighter than time to work on the bike, which means it is getting REALLY tight. I am done with farkles for a long time now, and I just want to get the bike on the road once the fooking snow melts.
Sounds like you are on the way to getting it squared away. I am curious how it goes for you. I know 20 years ago I watched a guy with pennies and Kreem do his and it held for as long as I remember seeing him. Seems the Por is the right stuff for the job.

Hope you get it fixed and all is good for you. How long after you treat can you put gas in? Do you bake it to cure?

 
Unfortunately, having the tank in HOT conditions would be best, and that is not an option for me. I will probably wait at least a week for the sealer to dry in the tank before I put it back together and put gas in it. I have both a heat gun, and a 500K BTU heater I can use to help force some hot air into the tank, but obviously I need to be careful not to over do it.

 
Oh, the heater in the shop will get the temps high enough, but to keep the temp in the shop as high as it should be is a PITA. I will try to do as much of the smelly work out in the shop, and then probably take the tank in the house so it can cure.

 
Cool, as soon as you send me the $$ I will get right on it. As I posted earlier today, I doubt I can get a new tank for the $50.00 it should cost to fix this one.

 
Be a man, TriggerT, grow a set..

take that tank into the house and bake it in Mamma's oven at 105F for 4 hours..

jes helpin' :p

 
Good idea. Hell, we just redid the kitchen last spring, so that new stainless steel oven is barely broken in. I doubt she will mind, and the fumes will be good for the kids, or at least they will go to sleep better. :dribble:

 
Is 105F enough? That won't even boil water, and unless it is a convection oven it will take a while to get it out. Better to tape a hairdryer on it in the garage.

 
Hell, I will just hang it in front of my 500K BTU salamander heater for a few hours, that should dry it right out, and I am sure it wont damage the paint.

 
All of this tank lining stuff is all well and good for unobtainable 50 year old bikes, but when you get done you'll still have a tank that was lined.

So, if the stuff comes loose later on when you are a day and a half's ride out of BFE and your fuel pump takes a Howie, how far will that saved couple hunnert bucks money get you?

If it was me I'd suck it up and buy a different used tank. And don't buy one from FLORIDUH!

 
Well I've sent many automotive fuel tanks out for cleaning and relining here in Florida and have never had a single warranty issue. I'd recommend the procedure without hesitation, 22 yrs wrenching on cars for a living, jmho:)

 
All of this tank lining stuff is all well and good for unobtainable 50 year old bikes, but when you get done you'll still have a tank that was lined.

So, if the stuff comes loose later on when you are a day and a half's ride out of BFE and your fuel pump takes a Howie, how far will that saved couple hunnert bucks money get you?

If it was me I'd suck it up and buy a different used tank. And don't buy one from FLORIDUH!
That's what I have seen and heard Kreem does. I'd guess prep was a factor.

As I mentioned the CLR and pocket change, the tank is bright but might have a few pock marks from pitting. Keeping fuel in it or fogging it for storage should prevent a repeat offense.

Just sayin'.

 
A new tank is NOT, NOT, NOT in the budget. Period, end of discussion, not going to happen. (Unless someone has one they want to give away and ship for free.)

If I don't seal the inside of the tank, isn't the odds highly in favor of the rust just starting again? I have read several reviews of the POR-15, and have yet to find anything, anywhere about the lining separating from the tank.

 
A new tank is NOT, NOT, NOT in the budget. Period, end of discussion, not going to happen...

If I don't seal the inside of the tank, isn't the odds highly in favor of the rust just starting again?...
Ya, ya, ya, enough of the excuses; so, when are you going to buy the new tank? ;) :lol:

Simply removing the rust will lead to more rust PDQ. By using one of the electrochemical processes you can vastly inhibit the return of rust with the correct black-oxide grown inside the tank, see the pool chemical method in the other post.

If POR is correctly done and is shielded from UV (it will quite likely be well shielded inside of a closed, sealed gas tank) it will be permanent unless you bash the tank, in which case it may crack but not peel. Many people in my car club PORed everything on the bottom of their cars, the only thing that ever became degraded in the slightest were the wheel wells which were exposed to sunlight. The wheel wells went from jet black to a very dark charcoal gray but even with the New England road abuse never chipped, cracked or peeled.

 
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Sorry to ***** so much about not buying another tank, but money has become a MAJOR topic around the house in the last few weeks, and the amount of money I have poured into my LD project this winter has not helped things.

To add fuel to the fire I took the time to figure out how much money I have been spending per month this winter while i have had to drive my truck on my 160 mile daily commute to and from work. How about between $650 and $850 PER MONTH in fuel costs alone. Any wonder I am broke? And yes, I am desperately looking for a different job, and praying the weather improves so I can start riding the bike.

 
POR-15 works great, but make sure you properly prep the tank before coating it - follow the directions to the tee. I've done a couple of automotive tanks before, with one that I didn't do the correct prep job. The coating began to flake off after a few fill-ups. Good luck... ;)

 
Yeah, it sounds like the key is following the directions. Getting the thing rinsed out properly, and REALLY making sure it is 100% dry before applying the coating.

 
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