Rusty Rear Axle

[FJR&R]

Just did my 8000 mile service. Everything went well. I used every extension I own to get down to the black hole the plugs reside in; they looked great, but I installed Iridiums anyway. I blew out air filter with compressed air and got little reaction, so I kept it for a backup. I figured since I was going to have new rubber put on next month at Sunnyside, I might as well drop the drive line and lube the splines. This was the first time I've had occassion to remove the rear wheel. What ensued was a battle to remove the axle. This thing was completely oxidized with rust, as were all the surfaces it comes in contact with. After a thorough scrubbing and lubeing, I realize I was pretty fortunate. None of the surfaces were pitted and all is well now. I found the teeth in the hub to be lubed sufficiently, but as expected, the shaft splines were nearly dry. Waiters, when your bike comes in don't wait to do this inspection. I do have one remark; FJRTech says to torque the acorn nuts on the swingarm after installing the wheel so that proper alignment can be attained. What kind of torque wrench are you guys using to do this? Mine won't even fit on the inner acorns with the wheel installed, there's just no room for any movement.

 

[Bustanut joker]

I found if ya used a 3/8s swivel and a 3 inch extension it's really easy to do. In fact I used to same extension/swivel combo to change the plugs. Did you forget to remove something when doin' the plug thing?

:jester:

 

[FlyingLow]

First chance you get go back in there and remove the U-joint and lube the splines on the output shaft. They'll be dry same as the driveshaft splines.

 

[Scab]

Ya'll do realize that if you use an extension or swivel with a torque wrench, the torque indicated by the wrench is not the torque relayed to the nut. Some of the torque will be absorbed by the extension and the swivel.

 

[RTSR1/FJR]

Ya'll do realize that if you use an extension or swivel with a torque wrench, the torque indicated by the wrench is not the torque relayed to the nut.  Some of the torque will be absorbed  by the extension and the swivel.

I work on KSC (Kennedy Space Center) and we're required to use certified calibrated torque wrenches and check them with all adapters in place on a torque analyzer every time we use them, before and after. There is no measurable loss in torque if proper adapters are used, example: 3/8" wrench, 3/8"adapter, not 3/8" wrench, 1/4" adapter. You can go bigger, but not smaller without affecting torque. Crows feet are a different story. As long as you use them at a right angle to the wrench, no change in torque. If you use them in-line, actually adding length to the wrench, it will add torque. One last thing, you should only use between 20 - 80 percent of the value of the wrench for accuracy.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Ya'll do realize that if you use an extension or swivel with a torque wrench, the torque indicated by the wrench is not the torque relayed to the nut.  Some of the torque will be absorbed  by the extension and the swivel.

I thought about that scab :eh: , but considered the difference to be neglegable as the tech forum suggests using this same setup for torquing the spark plugs, an area where over tourque would be an expensive blunder.

:jester:

 

[FJRottie]

I found if ya used a 3/8s swivel and a 3 inch extension it's really easy to do.

I did the same thing. Easy peasy. Other than that the FJRTech article is the cats ass.

The torque will not be off with a swivel. I checked mine once by torquing and then took the wheel off again and did a straight torque test. Same same.

LUBE THEM SPLINES NOW

Someone should open an 06 and verify if Yamaha did sweet **** all again to the splines.