SH__26? Not starting

[happyPuppy]

Check that your idle speed is 1100 to 1150.

 

[Tanhands]

Ahem...I just did a full fluid change on the clutch about a month and a half ago WITHOUT removing anything but the side panel to get to the reservoir and the bleed nipple. Took me all off about 10 minutes to do...I understand removing the swingarm for trouble shooting, but for bleeding the clutch? ME THINKS NOT!

I double checked this in the service manual. The Clutch Res is under the B panel. But the manual calls for removing the swing arm.

 

[Fred W]

It seems the reason they want you to remove the swingarm when bleeding the AE clutch hydraulics is so that you can turn the manual clutch operation bolt on the rear of the transmission to exercise the clutch. This seems to be to get all the air out and then also allow you to check the clutch stroke. If all you want to do is flush old fluid you could probably do that without manually operating the clutch so long as you are certain not to get any air in the lines.

PS - the reservoir isn't under the B panel, it's under the side panel.

 

[Tanhands]

I thought it was the B but you are right. So the question now is when they removed and re installed the Swing arm do they have to drain and replace the Final drive oil?

 

[Tanhands]

So I picked up the bike today and all seems right with the world now. Thursday they called and said that it was shifting fine with the Paddle but the Foot shifter was not working. It needed a new sensor that is near the foot at $285 plus .5 hours labor. They ordered the part and then Friday the Tech decided to play with it some more and found it was out of adjustment. Canceled the order and I picked it up.

I paid 3 hours of labor to have the clutch bled and am now on the road.

 

[Rob R]

Tan, I have the Sh-26 with my AE that sometimes prevents shifting into 1st as well as shutting down when riding however the bike will always start. Sometimes the bike shifts as if nothing is wrong. This was intermittent problem but now I am not willing to ride far from home. Looking in SM page 4-91 the drive fluid would be drained prior to removing swing arm. I am going to try changing the clutch fluid with the vac without removing the rear wheel, swingarm and go from there to see what happens. This may not solve my problem however the fluid is way overdue to be changed. I also have been slowly checking electrical connections. So far all look very clean. At this point I want to try as much as I can myself to solve problem rather then go to a dealer with a blank check.

What is most important is that friggin oil flow get capped/shut down in the Gulf!

 

[RadioHowie]

Looking in SM page 4-91 the drive fluid would be drained prior to removing swing arm.

Unless the Gen II final drive is MASSIVELY different from the Gen I FD, you do NOT need to drain the Final Drive pumpkin to remove the swingarm

After removing the rear wheel/tire assembly, you'd simply remove the 4 acorn nuts attaching the final drive to the left arm of the swingarm and simply slide the entire assembly, with drive shaft, rearward from the left arm of the swingarm.

Ignore the arrow and question mark....this pick was from another post, but you can clearly see the 4 acorn nuts re-attached to the pumpkin where it mounts on the swingarm.

I DO recommend keeping the FD in its normal vertical position, or FD fluid can leak out the breather on top of the pumpkin.

 

[Tanhands]

I asked them if they changed the gear oil and they said they took the arm off as one piece so they didn't have to drain. They may have though because the writer didn't know for sure. I did the change at 600 miles and they say that is good for like 10K. I just need to ride it.

As for the intermittent problem, I don't blame you for not wanting to ride too far but if that is the case then why have the bike. I figured either sell it broke or fix it but I couldn't use it broke. It cost me $250 to have it fixed and I know it is done right.

 

[Tanhands]

Looking in SM page 4-91 the drive fluid would be drained prior to removing swing arm.

I DO recommend keeping the FD in its normal vertical position, or FD fluid can leak out the breather on top of the pumpkin.

I try to keep mine right side up at all times, especially when I am on it.

 

[cruppelt]

I am going to try changing the clutch fluid with the vac without removing the rear wheel, swingarm and go from there to see what happens. This may not solve my problem however the fluid is way overdue to be changed.

When you change with the vac, just be careful that the fluid level in the reservoir never drops all the way into the hose - otherwise you really might have to take the swing arm off after all to get the air back out. Also check your rpms as per Happy Puppy's post - and don't forget that your tach might actually be off by a bit. If the fluid change alone doesn't do the trick, then try to change your idle up by 50 or even 100 and see if that helps. I had the very occasional shift error when starting the bike (maybe 3 times in three months) until I moved my idle up by 50 from 1100 to 1150 indicated. So far (~1500 miles of mostly commuting) no more errors.