Shift 51 Code

[canucklehead-biker]

Did an oil change and wired in the new (to me, thanks a bunch Wild72) 2730 on the AE yesterday, and today was going to take a little shakedown cruise. Got most of the way out of my community when the 'SHIFT' light came on, and she wouldn't shift up or down. I rolled over to the shoulder and she stalled (no shift to neutral). "Holy crap!" I think. "WTF?"

So I hiked home to check the trusty manual for what "Shift 51" means... hmmm... problem with the actuator or the shift rod... that sounds expensive, and not easily fixable on the road...

Grab some extra tools and jump in the car to go back to the scene of the crime, and start pulling off the C panel to get at the actuator.

:angry: The #$%$#$%$#$% casting is broken off at the right side mounting lug, and it has shifted out of position!! (will post pictures when I can).

I took things apart, put it back where it is supposed to be. It started, code erased and I rode it back to the barn without incident. Good thing it happened now as opposed to next weekend when I start south for 3 Flags, or during the rally itself, but....

Can I JB weld the mounting lug (or something) to make this part whole again, or do I have to source a new shift actuator with less than 7 days until I roll south for the 3 Flags...

Any ideas? Anyone had to do a similar repair? TIA

Griff (fuming in Calgary) :construction:

 

[buf2phx]

Did an oil change and wired in the new (to me, thanks a bunch Wild72) 2730 on the AE yesterday, and today was going to take a little shakedown cruise. Got most of the way out of my community when the 'SHIFT' light came on, and she wouldn't shift up or down. I rolled over to the shoulder and she stalled (no shift to neutral). "Holy crap!" I think. "WTF?"
So I hiked home to check the trusty manual for what "Shift 51" means... hmmm... problem with the actuator or the shift rod... that sounds expensive, and not easily fixable on the road...

Grab some extra tools and jump in the car to go back to the scene of the crime, and start pulling off the C panel to get at the actuator.

:angry: The #$%$#$%$#$% casting is broken off at the right side mounting lug, and it has shifted out of position!! (will post pictures when I can).

I took things apart, put it back where it is supposed to be. It started, code erased and I rode it back to the barn without incident. Good thing it happened now as opposed to next weekend when I start south for 3 Flags, or during the rally itself, but....

Can I JB weld the mounting lug (or something) to make this part whole again, or do I have to source a new shift actuator with less than 7 days until I roll south for the 3 Flags...

Any ideas? Anyone had to do a similar repair? TIA

Griff (fuming in Calgary) :construction:

Can't remember if it applied to 06,but there was a recall involving the shift actuator. IIRC,they were supposed to add a bracket to provide some extra support so the actuator didn't snap off. I think I read about it in the Bin o Facts.

Mike

 

[buf2phx]

Here's the text from the Bin: 15-Aug-2006, Bulletin M2006-012.

Affects only AE models, Range: 0006 - 0327, and 0011 - 0079 California

Part Information: Part Number: 90891-20120-00 ( a kit with 2 brackets, 2 nuts, 4 bolts, 6 drill bits, and a spline to 3/8" drive indicating torque wrench adapter.)

Test Part: Pull left side cover and air box cover. Pull shift linkage from the actuator. Use the adapter to install an indicating torque wrench (or torque analyzer) -- most will use a 2-beam torque wrench. Check for movement clockwise and counter-clockwise with 29 ft-lbs of torque (never exceed 29 ft-lbs). If the shaft moves -- replace the actuator assembly.

Install brackets (2): Pull shift actuator. Lower the rear shock remote adjuster (3 nuts). Drill out the threads to 8mm on the actuators rear mount hole (ONLY ONE HOLE). Install bracket to the inside of the frame with longer provided bolt. Install bracket 2 to aft mounting hole with the bracket stud installed in the sub-frame crossover plate (existing hole). (Do not know what the torques are -- see your dealer for a copy of the bulletin). Re-install actuator shift arm to the shaft and adjust according to service manual.)

Mike

 

[bramfrank]

Yamaha was supposed to contact owners about this recall.

Phone your dealer and ask what the status is - sounds like at least it won't cost anything to correct.

 

[canucklehead-biker]

Thanks for the info guys... my serial number is in the range indicated by the bulletin, so calling first thing in the morning.

I have to call them tomorrow in any case, as I got a letter from Yamaha wondering why I hadn't had the recall done for the ignitions switch... it was done back in April, apparently the dealer never updated the record. This is the dealer that forgot to torque the pinch bolts on the top of the fork tubes when they did the ignition switch... so on second thought I may just call across town to another dealer, and while they are at it have them do a complete check to see what other recalls haven't been done.

I pulled the broken unit, and here's where the damage is:

Question is: can I get another one before Friday, and if not, can I fix this one up well enough to make it through 3 Flags? Or do I just cancel the trip?

Griff

 

[canucklehead-biker]

Update: Yamaha customer service folks in Canada are calling another local dealer to try to get this looked after pronto. Other dealer parts/service are already working on sorting out this mess... maybe customer service isn't dead after all....

Will post updates as and when possible.

Griff

 

[buf2phx]

Thanks for the info guys... my serial number is in the range indicated by the bulletin, so calling first thing in the morning.
I have to call them tomorrow in any case, as I got a letter from Yamaha wondering why I hadn't had the recall done for the ignitions switch... it was done back in April, apparently the dealer never updated the record. This is the dealer that forgot to torque the pinch bolts on the top of the fork tubes when they did the ignition switch... so on second thought I may just call across town to another dealer, and while they are at it have them do a complete check to see what other recalls haven't been done.

I pulled the broken unit, and here's where the damage is:

Question is: can I get another one before Friday, and if not, can I fix this one up well enough to make it through 3 Flags? Or do I just cancel the trip?

Griff

If they can't get it fixed for you,I'd try something quick and ugly with JB Weld so you can enjoy your trip. With good surface prep,and sufficient cure time,I think the JB would be plenty strong enough to get you through. A large washer that would fill the space available and provide additional support would probably be a good idea,too.

Mike

 

[canucklehead-biker]

If they can't get it fixed for you,I'd try something quick and ugly with JB Weld so you can enjoy your trip. With good surface prep,and sufficient cure time,I think the JB would be plenty strong enough to get you through. A large washer that would fill the space available and provide additional support would probably be a good idea,too.Mike

Yeah, I reckoned the same thing Mike. Already done the prep, JB "welded" it together, and added a plate washer I ground to size... it is curing as we speak.

This is 'Plan B'... last I spoke with the new dealer they were pretty confident Yamaha would authorize the repair under warranty. I sure hope so, because they want $Cdn 1200 for the actuator!!!

I'm going to call Gary McCoy tomorrow at Mondak to see what the price is stateside... I may want to pick one up on the way south if they won't/can't do it here.

Jeff

 

[Shane Stump]

Jeff,

I hope Yamaha does the right thing and fixes your bike PROMPTLY!

The more threads I read with AE's having SHFT_## codes, I am so GLAD I FINALLY GOT RID OF IT!

The AE is great technology but it still has a lot of work which is obvious by all the 2006 AE owners having problems!

Best regards,

Shane

 

[canucklehead-biker]

Hi Shane,

This one was something that affected the first few hundred bikes in the production run, and was fixed for later ones. It SHOULD have been fixed by the dealer with a retrofit from Yamaha - in my case as part of the PDI before I got the bike. They didn't do it, and it looks like the part will be upgraded to the new (beefier) piece for free (crossing fingers).

I'm hoping this isn't the start of a string of problems with the YCCS... if it is, I will do exactly what you did: unload it and get something else. Although if I was to unload it I'd probably look at an FJR A model as first choice.

In any case... here's hoping it doesn't come to that...

Jeff

 

[canucklehead-biker]

UPDATE: Yamaha has agreed it should have been done by the original dealer and are FedEx-ing the necessary parts to another dealer to complete the repair under the warranty. :yahoo:

:fans: Kudos to Yamaha Canada for doing the right thing.

Looks like I'm outa here on Sunday as planned :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo:

Thanks for the support folks... nice to have a shoulder to cry on when this sort of thing happens... :drinks:

Griff

 

[FJRGuy]

Good to hear!

Wonder if I should talk to them about the electrical gremlin in my bike. Maybe they'll do something about it.

Was dead as a doornail upon my return from the family vacation. Had to give it a High Amp Charge to get it to the point where the Yuasa charger would even start to work.

Anyway, charged up now so I'm good to ride out with you on Sunday if you want some company for a while. Should be able to catch you on your return to Canada as well.

Jeff

 

[Bungie]

:fans: Kudos to Yamaha Canada for doing the right thing.

Glad to see Yami Canada is taking care of it for you. To bad they refuse to touch my ticker...

 

[FastJoyRide]

Great news - have a ball on your first 3 Flags!

 

[canucklehead-biker]

Thanks Dave... been awfully bummed the last few days thinking I might have to scrub... now all systems GO :bike:

(BTW: starting a new post on my trip prep, and the ride that I will try to keep updated on the outside chance anyone's interested. Probably also a SPOT track)

Jeff

 

[canucklehead-biker]

FINAL UPDATE- shift actuator ($1200 unit) replaced no charge. Kudos to Yamaha Canada, and to Rob (parts) and Evan (service) at Walt Healy Motorsports in Calgary for bending over to make this happen.

EDIT - as an aside, my jury-rigged actuator (JB Weld) let go twice on my way across town... there was no way in Hell I would have been able to limp through the rally without new parts. The amount of force that thing puts out on a shift change is quite remarkable. For any AE owners, I recommend you pull the side panel and have a look at this sucker in action.

Leave for 3 Flags on Sunday......

Griff (grinning like an idiot)

 

[buf2phx]

FINAL UPDATE- shift actuator ($1200 unit) replaced no charge. Kudos to Yamaha Canada, and to Rob (parts) and Evan (service) at Walt Healy Motorsports in Calgary for bending over to make this happen.
EDIT - as an aside, my jury-rigged actuator (JB Weld) let go twice on my way across town... there was no way in Hell I would have been able to limp through the rally without new parts. The amount of force that thing puts out on a shift change is quite remarkable. For any AE owners, I recommend you pull the side panel and have a look at this sucker in action.

Leave for 3 Flags on Sunday......

Griff (grinning like an idiot)

Well, the circuit is protected by a 30 A fuse, so I figured it had to be doing some heavy work.

Mike