shift code 42

[doddsy]

Hello , can anyone give any knowledge on whay sh..42 means? bike wont start and is clunking when I press the starter, battery is good?

The manual says "communication between ECU and multi function meter is abnormal" ......anyone?

 

[madmike2]

I've seen it discussed. IIRC, it applies to the "E" modek.

I'll be danged if I can find it searching the forum or by Google.

Someone knows....just be patient.

 

[mtnhigh]

Hello , can anyone give any knowledge on whay sh..42 means? bike wont start and is clunking when I press the starter, battery is good?The manual says "communication between ECU and multi function meter is abnormal" ......anyone?

If you have the factory manual turn few pages forward. (if my book is the same) pg8-196 Gives you some things to check. Could just be a bad connection to the MCU(shift motor control unit under seat area)or shift speed sensor on the rear side of clutch housing. location picture in manual / pg1-24

need more details let me know. I'm just sitting here healing a broken leg

 

[JamesK]

I don't have an AE so just guessing, but might be worth trying to first reset the Code 42 and see what happens, here are the steps:

Bin-O-Facts

Diagnostic ModeAppears to be the same for '03 - '05)

To enter Diagnostic Mode: Have the key turned off (kill switch on) and press the Select and Reset together. Turn the key to on and hold the buttons for about 8 seconds. A screen will apear that reads "d1 AG". release the buttons.

(so far, same as prior models)

Use the "SELECT" select "Co" adjustment or the diagnostic mode "d1 AG". Press Select and Reset for 2 seconds. "d:01" should appear on the clock if you did everything right.

Press "SELECT" for the next code, Press "RESET" for the previous code.

Codes go from d:01 to d:70 -- go buy a manual for the codes.

Note: Lean Angle Sensor (Overturned Motorcycle) Fault code: 30

Scroll through the diagnostic codes to:

61 (the history of fault codes). If you see a 0 at the bottom right then there are no trouble codes. However if you see a number 30 that is the code for an over turned motorcycle. If you have the code 30 and want to erase it. Press the select button and go to number 62 (erase history code). Then turn the kill switch off, then back on again. This will erase this and any other codes stored in the memory. Then turn the key off to go back to normal operations. If you have any more codes I suggest you order the big book from FJR Goodies to problem solve or take it to your dealer.

 

[doddsy]

No luck finding a loose connection at the mcu, scrolled through the diag codes but 42 didn't come up, just jumped on to 48!

i disconnected the battery when attaching a gerbing harness, I wonder did I trip something, all fuses look good.

 

[ionbeam]

...scrolled through the diag codes but 42 didn't come up, just jumped on to 48!...

The AE SHift Codes are different from the standard diAG codes. Anything that begins with SH is a YCCS clutch related error code. You may want to ping one of the AE owners like mcatrophy who posts excellent technical help, just keep in mind he is time shifted by living in the UK.

 

[doddsy]

thanks, I'll try him, I am also in UK. Local dealer thinks that the ecu is "fried".....funny how it is always the most expensive conclusion that comes first!

 

[RadioHowie]

Hello , can anyone give any knowledge on whay sh..42 means? bike wont start and is clunking when I press the starter, battery is good?The manual says "communication between ECU and multi function meter is abnormal" ......anyone?

When you say "bike won't start and is clunking when I...." do you mean the motor isn't even turning over? Just clunks and nothing?

Or is it spinning over, and just won't start?

If it's going "clunk" and doesn't spin, that sounds more like a mechanical issue than an electrical one.

Is the bike in neutral or in gear? Can you roll it? If you CAN roll it, then the "clunk" isn't because the motor is fighting the transmission. It's because it's fighting something else, like a set of valves, or a cylinder full of gas (hydrolock).

Further investigation is called for, if ya ask me. Or at least further clarification of "clunk" and whether the transmission is engaged or not.

 

[skifrik]

Do you have the green "N" light on?

 

[RadioHowie]

Do you have the green "N" light on?

Kindasorta same thing I asked.

 

[doddsy]

The ignition is on, when pressing the starter button there is a repetitive clunking and a clicking from the MCU under the seat.

The green neutral light is on and neither front or back brakes are binding as the brake light is functioning normally.

I can change gear from N to First and back again with both foot and hand methods.?????????

 

[RadioHowie]

The ignition is on, when pressing the starter button there is a repetitive clunking and a clicking from the MCU under the seat.The green neutral light is on and neither front or back brakes are binding as the brake light is functioning normally.

I can change gear from N to First and back again with both foot and hand methods.?????????

Okay, from what I'm reading, you're attempting to start the bike in neutral, but you get a "clunk" when you hit the start and the motor is NOT turning over?

Please address this question. I don't mean the motor isn't starting, I mean the motor isn't even spinning, okay?

And you didn't address whether or not you can roll the bike around with the transmission in neutral.

Now another test....

Put the bike on the center stand. Shift the bike into top (5th) gear. Now grab the rear wheel and see if you can turn the motor over through the transmission using the rear wheel. It won't be easy, but it shouldn't be terribly difficult, either.

If you can NOT rotate the motor with the rear wheel and the tranny in 5th gear, again I'd suspect a mechanical problem is prevent the motor from turning over.

Especially if you can turn the motor backwards using the rear wheel as your leverage device, but can only rotate perhaps one reveolution of the motor before you get another "clunk" and can't turn any more.

You said in you original post "battery is good". Are you sure?

Just trying to eliminate possible mechanical issues in the drivetrain before diving into YCCS-ECU problems, where a lot of us old-timers will have to bow out.

The word you've used at least twice, "clunking", has me puzzled and perplexed. (and not a small bit worried)

'Howie

 

[doddsy]

No luck in getting the gears up to fifth, only first and N are accessible.

Was getting 11.5 v across the terminals with a multimeter.

Engine not even turning over.

Local dealer collected it today in a van so Its in their hands now.

I fear I could do damage if I were to try to fix it myself at this stage.

Thanks for all the comments so far, will let you all know of what the outcome is. Hopefully It won't be a ecu/mcu replacement.

 

[RadioHowie]

No luck in getting the gears up to fifth, only first and N are accessible. Was getting 11.5 v across the terminals with a multimeter.

Engine not even turning over.

Local dealer collected it today in a van so Its in their hands now.

I fear I could do damage if I were to try to fix it myself at this stage.

Thanks for all the comments so far, will let you all know of what the outcome is. Hopefully It won't be a ecu/mcu replacement.

Damn....now you're at the mercy of "strangers". <_<

FYI, 11.5 v across the teminals is not "good battery" voltage.

But the "clunking" still remains a mystery to me. But then, so many things are!

 

[ionbeam]

thanks, I'll try him, I am also in UK. Local dealer thinks that the ecu is "fried".....funny how it is always the most expensive conclusion that comes first!

I work in a technical field and time after time I've watched people try to troubleshoot complex systems. If someone doesn't fully understand the system they most often change the most complex part first, it just seems to be human nature.

Hopefully your dealer understands the system and will do some real troubleshooting. On a Gen II you have the ECU, YCCS (Yamaha Chip Controlled Shifting) and ABS control systems. There are a number of sensors associated with the YCCS that have a very narrow voltage range and some readings will cause the starter to lock out.

If your problem is unrelated to Code SH_42 then it is likely to be simple like the side stand switch (or the run/stop switch on the handlebar). If your motorcycle has an Immobilizer, pray the problem isn't in that system :fie:

I believe it was SH_48 that was associated with shifter bracket failures. Some early AEs had a recall for bracket failures which caused an inability of the shift actuator rod to move.

 

[doddsy]

Dealer called to say it is a faulty starter relay. Has to order it in , so hoping he is right.

 

[RadioHowie]

From MY point of view, that's terrific news. I was thinking dark, horrible thoughts based on your "clunking" description.

GO DODDSY!!

 

[madmike2]

I hope this is a happy ending...

I looove happy endings! :yahoo:

 

[doddsy]

Yes, corrosion on the starter relay lug, causing snappage. New one is £70 + labour. So decided to get a full service while in and a new front tyre, altogether £512.

Funnily enough, being side tracked by the complications of shift codes and diagnostics, ecus, mcus,gnus, emus, ground spiders, sky weevils etc etc, I can't help kicking myself that if this had happenned to my old bike (Kawasaki er5), it would have been a quick check of the fuses, followed by a wiggle of the wiring and relays to find it and replace or, as I nearly always would, bodge it.

With this bike, I wimped out for fear of the unknown.

Is technology really our friend, or is it better it keep it simple?