Sig Sauer X-Five?

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Ari Rankum

NAFO Karting Champion, 2012
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Time for a gun thread.

Anybody willing to cop to owning a Sig Sauer P226 X-Five? If you own one, would you make the purchase again, knowing what you know?

TIA

 
Don't have one, but I really want a P220
I just put 200 rounds through a P220 about two hours ago. Love those. Among the .45s, a P220 is tough to beat. It's a damn fine weapon. I was considering a P220 Super Match for a while. Right now, I'm trying to stave off the purchase of an X-Five. I can't tell if I'm going to be successful.

 
I've had many different makes of auto pistols over the years, but I purchased a Sig P220 Carry (.45) about a year ago and it is the finest and most accurate I have ever owned. I use it for CCW and range duty.

 
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OK, about time I can speak on something with a little knowledge. I have put a few hundred rounds through an X-Five, and it is a REALLY nice gun. I have had a P226 for 15 years now, and have put somewhere around 70K rounds through it. GREAT gun.

My question to you is why an X-five? What are you going to use the gun for? If it is going to be competition, what type? USPSA, IPSC, IDPA, or just for fun?

If you give me a little more information about what you want to use the gun for, I can give youy some more feedback.

Also, chaeck our the Brian Enos shooting forum. It is in the same format as this forum, and is THE...THE Forum for competition shooters.

TriggerT / Tim Pawlowski

USPSA TY42131 Master Class L-10

(Hey I have to toot my own horn about somehting, since I am a motorcycle dope)

 
OK, about time I can speak on something with a little knowledge. I have put a few hundred rounds through an X-Five, and it is a REALLY nice gun. I have had a P226 for 15 years now, and have put somewhere around 70K rounds through it. GREAT gun.
My question to you is why an X-five? What are you going to use the gun for? If it is going to be competition, what type? USPSA, IPSC, IDPA, or just for fun?

If you give me a little more information about what you want to use the gun for, I can give youy some more feedback.

Also, chaeck our the Brian Enos shooting forum. It is in the same format as this forum, and is THE...THE Forum for competition shooters.

TriggerT / Tim Pawlowski

USPSA TY42131 Master Class L-10

(Hey I have to toot my own horn about somehting, since I am a motorcycle dope)
Trigger - You're the sort of shooter I'm looking for, so thanks.

I do not compete, but I do read a lot about IPSC. That's how I learned about the X-Five.

In most aspects of my life, I'm an ignoramus. In just a few, I like to believe I understand stuff. These would include: watches, computers, cars, motorcycles, and guns. In those areas, I like fine stuff, and sometimes pay for it.

The P226 X-Five is somewhat touted as a masterpiece. While it's damn spendy, it appeals to me as a cool piece of engineering. Sometimes, in some spaces, being able to play with the state of the art is too damn fun. I will pay for a damn fine watch, even if sub-second accuracy doesn't really matter to me. Likewise, the X-Five has an appeal as a dead-dog accurate piece of machinery. The bottom line is that I'd like a fine piece to enjoy on my own. (I'll take: THINGS ODOT MIGHT SAY for $400, Alex). If you think the P226 offers 90% of the experience for 1/3 the price, I'd welcome the opinion.

Regards,

 
Ari,

Man you and I should talk.

Watches: Kobold, Vollmer, and IWC.

Cars: Porsche. (The search stopped there, since there was nothing I found I liked better)

Guns I have had custom made for me: Les Bear Monolith heavy Weight, JP Enterprises AR-15, Bennelli IPSC 12 Gauge. Then there are the guns I have worked on, and the list goes on. My wife is in the room, so I digress.

if you are not going to use the gun for competition, I would say save your money and skip the X-Five. As I understand from talking to some of the Air Force shooters who were the first to get the X-Five, it was designed by Sig to try and get them into specific areas of the competition shooting arena. Specifically USPSA / IPSC limited. It has a single action trigger pull which is GREAT for competition, but not needed for target shooting, since you can take your time and cock the hammer. As far as the X-Five and concealed carry, FORGET it. Too big, and you would have to work on some of the sharp corners. I'm not even sure what kind of holster you could get for it.

I can say with great confidence that any standard Sig, if broken in properly, and with good ammo, is capable of better performance than 99% of the shooters in the world. The only thing I have against my Sig, is that it is hard to work on. If you want a gun to work on, get a 1911 style gun and a Brownells catalog.

Do you reload your own ammo? That could come in to play, since different calibers are A LOT cheaper than others.

I guess if you just want the best, because you want the best. Go for it. I would buy a P220 or P226 or P228, and use the extra money for a reloading press, or another gun.

 
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looking through some of the links...that is one nice firearm.

I can not comment as I am a Baretta guy

 
I shoot defensive pistol here in Cochise County. Not as sophisticated as the IDPA in Tucson, more on the ISPC line. I talked with a lot of shooters before making a decision. There are basically two camps, .45 Cal and everyone else.

The .45 Cal gang is subdivided into 1911, STI 1911's and then all of the other pistols such as Springfield XP, Sig, Glock and so forth. There are two strong groups evolving in the non-.45 Cal group, 9mm and .40 S&W. Since I reload all of my ammo I had some serious factors to consider.

The 9mm gang likes all the ammo they can carry in a magazine and the drawback supposidly the punch of the smaller 9mm. I talked with some LEO's and Border guys and they all liked (without exception) the .40 S&W. Some carry the Sig 229 and others the Beretta. Everyone I talked to thought both pistols were excellent service pieces.

Since I've always wanted to own a Sig I looked around for a 229 but last year they were hard to come by since the US Coast Guard ordered around 350,000 229's. I found a almost new Sig 229 Equinox at a local gun shop (they have a sterling reputation) and bought it. I bought a Dillon Square Deal reloading press in .40 Cal and have put about 2000 rounds through the Sig. It is a wonderful pistol and I have played with bullet grain weight and powder loads. At 15 yards it puts out about a 3" group. I love the balance on the Sig 229 and have made two modifications to the weapon. 1. I added Hogue grips which are slimmer and stickier than the wood grips that come with the Equinox. 2. A Sig "short" trigger which makes the double action draw a little more comfortable. You can also get the 229 in DAK trigger which is "double action only" and more law enforcement oriented.

For conceal carry I bought a Glock 27 also in .40 S&W so I only have to reload one caliber. All I can tell you is that both weapons are wonderful in their own way. The Sig 229 is a precision piece of engineering and I expect to keep it until I wear it out and then I'll probably send it back to Sig for a rebuild.

One last comment. One of the top shooters in our area (young and fast) bought a "factory rebuilt" Sig 229 and he loves it. You might call or email Sig USA and find out what the cost is. Once you pump a couple hundred rounds through the piece it doesn't matter if it's new or used and Sig gaurantees their factory rebuilds.

Have fun and share your sport! :clapping:

AZ

 
Gunsmithing question - I have a 1911 Series 70. Had the gunsmith at Cooper's Gunsite pin the grip safety and work the sear (sweet trigger pull, BUT). Here's my frickin' problem:

With the stock spring, the slide will not, not, lock to the rear after the last round is fired (Wilson magazines). With a stronger spring, the hammer will "occasionally" (never is the goal) drop to the half-cock notch when releasing the slide release (Wilson slide release), but the slide will lock to the rear after the last round :blink:

For the hammer falling I thought maybe he worked the full cock notch on the sear, or maybe the hammer wheel too much. Can't figure the other challenge, or why it's either one or the other dependent on the spring! Pinning the grip safety "shouldn't" be a cause...

Whaddya all think?

 
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Had a P220 (in .45 acp) for a long time. It set in the gun safe, unused for several years after getting my Kimber. I sold it last year for about $500 (including a long ported bbl, an extra recoil system w/full-lenth guide rod, and some extras). The grip was too bulky, the bbl was high above the pivot point, and it was a krunchentinker action.

If I were to be in the mood to spend a little cash, I'd be seriously looking at something from Kimber's custom shop. I shot one of their massaged standard-framed 1911's and I nearly had to clean my shorts it was so nice.

 
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Gunsmithing question - I have a 1911 Series 70. Had the gunsmith at Cooper's Gunsite pin the grip safety and work the sear (sweet trigger pull, BUT). Here's my frickin' problem:
With the stock spring, the slide will not, not, lock to the rear after the last round is fired (Wilson magazines). With a stronger spring, the hammer will "occasionally" (never is the goal) drop to the half-cock notch when releasing the slide release (Wilson slide release), but the slide will lock to the rear after the last round :blink:

For the hammer falling I thought maybe he worked the full cock notch on the sear, or maybe the hammer wheel too much. Can't figure the other challenge, or why it's either one or the other dependent on the spring! Pinning the grip safety "shouldn't" be a cause...

Whaddya all think?
Your recoil spring is too heavy. I have run as light as an 11 pound spring in my .45 with factory ammo. In my speed steel gun, which uses lighter loads I run a 7 or 8 pound spring. Try a lighter recoil spring, BUT add some shock buffs when you do. If the spring is to light you will feel it, and the shock buff will keep the gun from getting pounded even for a few hundred rounds. There is an outside chance it could be the magazine not allowing the gun to lock back, but the two problems you mention sure sound like too heavy a recoil spring to me.

 
Had a P220 (in .45 acp) for a long time. It set in the gun safe, unused for several years after getting my Kimber. I sold it last year for about $500 (including a long ported bbl, an extra recoil system w/full-lenth guide rod, and some extras). The grip was too bulky, the bbl was high above the pivot point, and it was a krunchentinker action.
If I were to be in the mood to spend a little cash, I'd be seriously looking at something from Kimber's custom shop. I shot one of their massaged standard-framed 1911's and I nearly had to clean my shorts it was so nice.
How long ago did you shoot the Kimber? I have an older one, and it is great, but ever since they moved their production facility a few years ago, I have seen their guns be hit or miss. Pun intended

 
Trigger - I'll pick up a stock spring. I bought the gun from a sailor who didn't fire it much - proably lucky he didn't shoot himself! I have both the spring that came in the weapon (stock I "assume") and the heavier spring I bought. I agree that the heavier spring is too doggone heavy! I'll pick up a new "stock" spring and give it a try. The magazines all look good as does the slide lock/release (all Wilson's).

Thanks.

Jim

 
JimLor,

I forgot to mention that you need to make sure you replace the firing pin spring if you go back to the heavy recoil spring. If the recoil spring is too heavy, and the firing spring to light, or worn out, you could make the gun slam fire. Basically go full-auto. Sounds like fun, but when it catches you off guard, it isn't.

 
Hmmm - that's how the M-60 fired, open-bolt, fixed firing pin. No, not looking for a .45 auto pistol w/o a way to stop firing besides running out of ammo! I hadn't thought of the firing pin spring...I live by Quantico and am trying to get with some of the Marines who build the .45 for the FMF. I had another pistol worked on there at one time and they do a great job and are some of the best gunsmiths in the world. Not open to the public, but certainly worth it for me. Thanks for the feedback TriggerT.

 

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