Slow sluggish start when hot

[Yroundrdn]

I've noticed several times that when I stop my bike while hot, and then start back up within 5 min or so, it starts like the battery is dead. If I let off and try the start button again, it starts right up. Has anyone run into this in the past?

Could be battery but doesn't make sense why it would start right up the next time.

If it were my old Chevy I'd say timing is too far advanced because that's exactly what happens if timing is advanced too far on the old cars.

If it were an older high mileage POC I'd say water, fuel or oil in a cylinder but clean exhaust when starts and it only has 15k miles.

The bike is an 05 with 15k miles. PO said new battery at 10k when I bought it last April but who knows with that guy.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Queensland Ken]

Battery on it's way out or loose terminals.

 

[FJRay]

Classic battery symptom.

 

[Greg 03]

Mine does the exact same thing, has a new battery, checked terminals etc. Only does it when hot. I never have a cold start problem and I always plug it into my battery tender.

 

[Yroundrdn]

will check the terminals, was in there setting up the aux fuse bar. I think I'll just get the batt if they are tight.

Thanks again- GREAT forum

 

[frankenfeejeer]

x2 on checking the battery and terminals and connections...

If this doesn't cure what ails you, you may have a starter problem.

I had these same symptoms and tried everything from the battery to the solenoid to the connections. I have been problem free for 9 months now including summer riding. The solution? New starter (well, used off of ebay).

Good luck!!

 

[garyahouse]

For what it's worth, my 05 did this same thing until I put in a new battery. Granted that it may indeed be something else, but this is a classic battery symptom. Any auto parts store (like AutoZone) can run an amperage check on that battery for you, though obviously you do have to take it out of the bike. Believe it or not, occasionally even fairly new batteries can have issues. There have been a couple posts through the years about starter magnets popping out of place, and guys removing their starter and re-gluing the mags into place but I'm not sure if your symptoms fit.

Gary

darksider #44

 

[Fred W]

+1 to what everyone else has said.

A hot engine restart does seem to be the heaviest load on the starting system for some reason. Maybe because the compression is highest at that time. Then when you happen to have the engine stop with one cylinder on the compression stroke it can make it hard for the starter to get any inertia going. It is definitely how an old battery shows up first. You may also note that your clock and trip meters will reset when you have one of the no-start events.

 

[roger dodger]

I've been having this issue all summer (or more). Mama Yama must have thought this up as a low battery indicator rather than spending the $$$ on more digital readouts.

Thanks MAMA! I will get that new battery this winter.

 

[Queensland Ken]

And go to a proper battery shop so you can at least view or get a print out of the results for when they do a drop / load test of the new battery.

Been bitten before by new batteries that can't produce the CCA for the bike's needs.

Stick with the OEM specs.

Part of my post on the Aussie Forum.

Be careful when buying batteries for the FJR.

The new replacement battery I bought was not faulty.
I had the battery tested electronically with a documented printout.
The Battery was advertised at 280 CCA, it had a real rating of 135 CCA, and tested at 68 CCA.

It was even worse than my old original battery, that was “faulty” old, cell voltage reducing.

The gent, who went out of his way today visiting the Yuasa factory near Walcol, Ipswich, brought back 3 types of batteries for the FJR, dimension wise.

He tested the 3 of them in front of us and only the OEM now called the Yuasa YT14-BBS, had a real 230 CCA recorded on his tester.

The others were rated at 135CCA and were tested near that amount 120-130 CCA.

The 135 CCA will start the fjr but may not last and run down quicker.

The Yuasa YT14-BBS cost $359.00 including the old fart’s discount.

 

[Fred W]

Yikes!! You Aussies are getting the royal screw job.

Yuasa YT14B-BS for $92.22

BTW - I think the CCA rating is only 210. It may deliver 230 amps new, but isn't rated that high by Yuasa.

 

[Donal]

Yikes!! You Aussies are getting the royal screw job.

Yuasa YT14B-BS for $92.22

BTW - I think the CCA rating is only 210. It may deliver 230 amps new, but isn't rated that high by Yuasa.

Something definitely wrong in Aussieland Yuasa YT14B-BS for £67.99 (and this is in rip-off UK)!

 

[Constant Mesh]

When you buy a "ship to" battery one has to hope it's a newly built battery and hasn't been sitting in a warehouse for 1+ years. I think most places like Autozone, etc. are pretty good about rotating their batteries so that you get one which isn't all that old. Of course they typically have a label indicating their month and year of manufacture. You can make sure you get one which is relatively new.

 

[Fred W]

When you buy a "ship to" battery one has to hope it's a newly built battery and hasn't been sitting in a warehouse for 1+ years. I think most places like Autozone, etc. are pretty good about rotating their batteries so that you get one which isn't all that old. Of course they typically have a label indicating their month and year of manufacture. You can make sure you get one which is relatively new.

Not true. As long as the battery is dry shipped, as most (including these Yuasas - "Battery supplied dry with acid bottle") are, they can sit on the shelf literally for decades and still be like new when you finally get around to activating them.

BTW - The Amazon deal I quoted is quite good for such a good battery.

 

[Yroundrdn]

Once again... you guys were spot on. Loose ground lead. I added a connection to the top for my fuse bar and it worked loose. There is so little thread as is so I'll look for a longer screw. I'm also going to add a little lock tight to the threads.

As always, thanks for the input.