Slowing Down

[NoCage]

I mostly use the brakes, and blip the throttle when downshifting to match engine speed to stay in the appropriate gear should I need to accelerate. One bad thing about downshifting to slow down... can't you lose traction on the rear wheel doing that if you're too aggressive? And wouldn't ABS be useless in this case? I see a possible high-side in that scenario. My .02.

 

[fastersilverfjr]

Engine braking primarily in town. Brakes primarily riding in the country.

Did not know about the RPM equilibrium thingee being a problem...thanks afterburn. I will have to re-train myself there.

 

[afterburn]

You'll know when you do it wrong: it will loudly protest against your actions. If it doesn't, don't worry.

 

[LetzRoll]

we seem to collect Brain Dead Cagers like metal shavings to a magnet.

Yes, but I believe someone here (I think it's XJRGuy) has a special helmet to aid in reducing this problem. :cigar:

Anti-Cager Helmet

 

[tcfjr]

Put me down for brakes-only slowing, with downshifts to stay in the appropriate gear in case a quick accelleration is needed. Occassionally, if I need to slow quickly and the revs are high, I'll come off the throttle to slow down without changing gears, but otherwise I rarely use engine braking.

 

[Centerline]

I mostly use the brakes, and blip the throttle when downshifting to match engine speed to stay in the appropriate gear should I need to accelerate. One bad thing about downshifting to slow down... can't you lose traction on the rear wheel doing that if you're too aggressive? And wouldn't ABS be useless in this case? I see a possible high-side in that scenario. My .02.

1. yes

2. no

3. possibly

 

[Woodstock]

I mostly use the brakes, and blip the throttle when downshifting to match engine speed to stay in the appropriate gear should I need to accelerate.  One bad thing about downshifting to slow down... can't you lose traction on the rear wheel doing that if you're too aggressive?  And wouldn't ABS be useless in this case?  I see a possible high-side in that scenario.  My .02.

1. yes

2. no

3. possibly

Hmm. I don't see how ABS will work if the loss of traction is due to the wheel going faster than the road? I don't think ABS will engage the brake without user input. It detects lockup by wheel not moving at all, it can't detect wheel slipping because it's going "too fast". At least that's my understanding. So, I'd say the answer to the second question is "yes, ABS will be useless in this case".

 

[markjenn]

All ABS can do is release the brake if it notes a locking wheel. So if you're really aggressive on a downshift and engine braking causes a skid, then you're SOL insofar as ABS helping.

- Mark

 

[Bearly Flying]

I use the tranny all the time, in order to lock up the back wheel on a downshift, you would have to be shifting at extremely high rpm, and be ham fisted on the clutch. If that is a problem, then perhaps you should look at buying a Burgman and sell the FJR.

 

[Getsum]

Or, some combination of the two?

I downshift and use front and rear brakes all the time. It's important to be in the proper gear for turns, swerves and accelerating. On top of that it should be increasing life on my brakes.

 

[Toynut]

I mostly use the brakes, and blip the throttle when downshifting to match engine speed to stay in the appropriate gear should I need to accelerate.  One bad thing about downshifting to slow down... can't you lose traction on the rear wheel doing that if you're too aggressive?  And wouldn't ABS be useless in this case?  I see a possible high-side in that scenario.  My .02.

I think a low-side is a greater probability. Particularily on a curve or on wet pavement.

 

[user 213]

ABS only modulates brake force when you are on the brakes to the point of wheel lock up. In the mentioned scenario of dumping the clutch and having the wheel lock, the ABS system would do nothing.

That said, in most cases on dry pavement, the wheel isn't going to lock up unless you downshift to a gear much lower than the current rpm can match as you let the clutch out. Sure, drop two gears and dump the clutch and that will probably do it.

I don't think we're really talking about this type of behaviour in this thread though. If you're not rev matching your down shifts, you should be. Go practice it and it will become second nature eventually. This is a safety issue, as in the proper SAFE practice during downshifting is to rev match.

If you're not comfortable downshifting as you slow down to a stop, that's fine. When you need to downshift to accelerate though, you'll want to be able to do it smootly and quickly w/o engaging the squirrel brain. You might not have time for that if you're doing it as part of an avoidance manuver. :erm:

 

[EastTNFJR]

Always downshift as I slow down and use the brakes at the end of the stop to come to a complete halt. Like being in a gear I can accelerate out of anyone's way if I have too without shifting frantically to get in a low enough gear. I have always shifted this way in every car and one every bike (15th bike) and have never had any transmission problems to this day but like everyoone says don't bang into 1st going 100 and you will probable be OK.

 

[JREW]

I also use a combination of front rear and engine to slow down. But I depend on my front brake for most of my stopping power. Rear brake to help out the front, and the engine brake for long slow downs. I see no need to burn up the pads for long gradual stops, but when I need to stop now, front break is best. On my dirt bike I also use front rear and engine braking for stopping, at about the same level as on the street, however I will use the rear brake to slide turn, but that is not a skill I have or plan to practice on the street. I like to down shift as needed to be in the correct gear for the speed I'm traveling, just in case I have to accelerate in a hurry.

 

[weekend rider]

Cant wait to get my new fjr with an auto matic transmission then it will help elimante questions of whether to clutch or not to clutch just ride the bike as it is intended :clap: :agent: :haha:

 

[BULLIT MAN]

I had the clutch replaced in my cruiser with a barnet heavy duty kevlar.I fried the 1st one at 1200 miles.i remember doing it in one afternoon of agressive canyon riding.after the replacement 45,000 miles later still tight and smooth under all conditions.on the fjr i like to use equal front brake clutch and rpm.For now i am better at point and shoot corners while practiceing sweeping all the way through with excelleration.I like keeping the rpm's between 4000 and 4500 for me it seems to work the best.it just feels like the sweet spot

 

[kerhrhr]

There are a whole lot of opinions in here, most of which I agree with. I myself lean more toward the combination of using the front brake and gradual downshifting while slowing down, and keeping the bike ready for whatever I may need it to do in a moments notice. Sure, it takes more coordination, and practice, but like someone earlier pointed out, it will become second nature.........naturally. I can think of more instances, where it would be a BAD idea, to just use the brakes when slowing down, than I can to downshift and use the brakes together. I primarily use my back break when I am doing in-town slow putting around, and don't need to stop abruptly. That front brake is touchy! Even when I use it, I only rap about 2 or 3 digits around it, tops. I don't really know that much about the internal workings of a tranny, and just how long a clutch will last, but I do know that the clutch plates are considered a "consumable" part, just like hoses, gaskets, etc. There is no avoiding repair and maintenance costs over the life of any machine. If you beat it up regularly, it will beat up your wallet.......

Aaron

 

[afterburn]

I had the clutch replaced in my cruiser with a barnet heavy duty kevlar.I fried the 1st one at 1200 miles.i remember doing it in one afternoon of agressive canyon riding.

Is it just me, or....

 

[BULLIT MAN]

Someone has to much time on his hands.plus i cant spell worth a crap.i guess that makes me respnsible for the sins of humanity