Smoked ESG130 Stator

[Scarbutt]

I Smoked my Electro Sport EG130 Stator.

I had 35K on it and this being the only item that has left me stranded in 104K "Miles Of Smiles" I am a little nervous about installing a new one. However I don't believe I have many options in my desire to maintain a somewhat Healthy Output. I put the original back in for the time being. Anybody else have any failures ?

Any one install a Gen-II Stator in a Gen-I Bike Yet ?

 

[Warchild]

I Smoked my Electro Sport EG130 Stator. I had 35K on it and this being the only item that has left me stranded in 104K "Miles Of Smiles" I am a little nervous about installing a new one. However I don't believe I have many options in my desire to maintain a somewhat Healthy Output. I put the original back in for the time being. Anybody else have any failures ?

Just past 60,000 miles on my ElectroSport stator, and trust me, I push it to the max more than most.

But I also keep a sharp, sharp eye on the Datel, and never let it run below ~13.3-ish volts on a continuing, ongoing basis.

Any one install a Gen-II Stator in a Gen-I Bike Yet ?

Were it only as simple as that..... :blink: You would have to swap out several very expensive components beside the stator, such as the stator rotor, and Rectifier/Regulator. The connectors between the model years are also different.

We looked at trying this in the Fall of 2006, and concluded that for the price of the components needed, you could get several 590-watt stators from ElectroSport. And since no one has tried it, we don't even know if we could force it to work.

Sorry you have a smoked stator.... looks like you have either really, REALLY been abusing it, or you have some other issues going on. What kind of loads have this stator seen over it's 35K lifetime?

 

[ionbeam]

I feel your pain and smell your smoke. The evening before EOM I had my FJR apart doing a stator swap. My saga is here. I have to check some old posts (or my records) but I belive my Electrosport had roughly 30k miles on it when it burned. The only steady load beside normal FJR electricals was Yamaha heated grips. It did get taxed when I ran my PIAAs, but since I knew that the PIAAs were amp eaters I only used them as required.

New Electrosport:

Used Electrosport:

 

[Ignacio]

I decided to stay stock....mainly because of the connector issues a few have....not because the stator itself would cook.

That picture doesn't look happy.

I've been fortunate that I've had enough wattage to drive low beam HID conversions, high beam Hella FF200 HID lights, and Warm-n-Safe jacket without dipping below 13.2 or so.

...of course I have 92,000 miles now....so I could fail tomorrow.

 

[ionbeam]

I decided to stay stock....mainly because of the connector issues a few have....not because the stator itself would cook...

Fool me once... I replaced my Electrosport with another one because there were no FJR stock stators in the US. My second Electrosport came with a R/R connector -- plug and burn play. I may have waited for a stock stator but that would have made me miss EOM, nottachance

I have a volt meter and never ran my electrical system below 13.2 volts. I also had one of the very first Electrosport stators for a FJR. Some times things get better with experience, I hope this is true with Electrosport winding and assembly.

 

[Constant Mesh]

They appear to have failed in the exact same location, the 12 o'clock position. The cooling oil spray from the crankshaft must not be getting to that area very effectively.

The stator windings must operate at a fairly high temperature. The engine oil temperature is 80 - 90 DegC at engine idle. So if the oil does any cooling the stator windings must be quite a bit above 90 degC.

 

[ionbeam]

They appear to have failed in the exact same location, the 12 o'clock position. The cooling oil spray from the crankshaft must not be getting to that area very effectively.
The stator windings must operate at a fairly high temperature. The engine oil temperature is 80 - 90 DegC at engine idle. So if the oil does any cooling the stator windings must be quite a bit above 90 degC.

IIRC, this was discussed in '06 where the stator wiring color darkened in a pattern that matched the lack of cooling oil. And now, a couple of years later, two almost insignificant failures (unless it was your FJR) happened right where there is minimum winding cooling. I've watched my volt meter over the last 30k miles and the stator has never been abused.

 

[Constant Mesh]

Ah! Looking in the Service Manual one can see what may be causing the problem.

From the 2001 European Service Manual:

Page 2-28

You can see how the oil is delivered to the stator. The bolt securing the generator magnet structure to the crankshaft includes an oil orifice which sprays oil out as the crankshaft turns. The oil sprays onto the outer side of the windings.

Page 5-36

The three stator support structures (120 degrees apart) in the generator external cover block the spray of oil in those locations as the crankshaft turns. One of those supports is located at the top of the stator. The other two are 120 degrees down each side. The area blocked at the top may receive little cooling oil. The other blocked areas may receive oil via gravity flow from the stator poles above. And, of course, the circular external cover may promote oil dispersion as the oil is sprayed onto the circular interior.

 

[mcatrophy]

If it's any consolation, my 06's stator showed some signs of heating at its top ,which is in line with the fixing screw at about 11 o'clock in the photo below, behind the intermediate gearwheel (sorry about the gearwheel, I didn't take the picture to look at the stator discolouring; for the record the gearwheel is is on back-to-front in the photo, just put there to keep it out of the dirt). You can see discolouration has started at the top, it's quite significant where visible through the holes in the gearwheel:

(Click on image for the complete picture)



The picture was taken when I was changing the stator cover after a minor off

, at about 1yr 9 months old (the bike, not me

), with some 7500 miles.

No excess loading ever, the standard heated grips are used perhaps 1/10th of the time

, my Tomtom (certainly no more than 2 amps) perhaps 1/3rd of the time.

Of course, there will be a high current after starting the engine. With mine that is a fair proportion of the time because probably half my miles are done with a three-mile city commute. Occasionally there will be a prolonged high current charge after the bike's been idle for 3 weeks or so (

no, I don't have a battery minder).

 

[ionbeam]

My OEM stator at 26k miles:

beeroux's OEM stator at 90k miles:

Behmer's Electrosport stator at 20k miles:

The stator pictures show the stator from various different angles, so use the output cable to orient the stators. You will see that only the bottom two lobes of each stator remain the least burned. FWIW.

 

[motorcycle-ed]

Has anyone experienced a GEN II stator failure? I know the capacity was increased to 560watts? On the Gen II.

Ed

 

[dcarver]

Timely thread as I'm looking for replacement stator/RR for a DL650. Not good to hear of the Electrosports report card. On the Vstromer forum some have been using Ricky Stator re-wound stators. Their site is primarily dirt bikes but apparently will wind others.

 

[Warchild]

Has anyone experienced a GEN II stator failure? I know the capacity was increased to 560watts?

IIRC, the figure is a nominal 590-watts @ 5000 RPM, I believe.

After mechanical and heat losses, this is more like 550-560 watts, thereabouts.

 

[El Toro]

Has anyone experienced a GEN II stator failure? I know the capacity was increased to 560watts?

IIRC, the figure is a nominal 590-watts @ 5000 RPM, I believe.

After mechanical and heat losses, this is more like 550-560 watts, thereabouts.

The spec is 590 watts at 5000 rpm as you remember.

The other thing to remember is that 5000 rpm is pretty doggone close to 100 mph in 5th gear, so the real output when you're tooling along at 75 mph, is probably more like about 450 watts, and then after you suck off losses, you're probably down more like 400 ish.

Then we also remember that Yamaha's factory heated grips (at least those on the 06 FJR AE that I have) are on a circuit that diminishes the load as the engine speed drops.... and if Yamaha did this, they didn't do it for nuthin'...

It sounds like some of the folks have installed an ammeter or voltmeter to monitor what's going on.... probably quite wise if you want to run a lot of extra stuff.

FWIW, I don't remember seeing threads on Gen II alternator failures, although admittedly, my experience looking is limited.

 

[Road Runner III]

Are there aftermarket alternators that provide more wattage? I have an 08 and want to get heated gear but i do not want to have the problems shown in this thread

 

[ionbeam]

The Gen I stock stator came with an optimistic spec of 490 watts @ 5,000 rpm. A Gen II comes with a stator rated for 14V; 590 watts @ 5,000 rpm. If you FJR is a non AE you should have enough watts available to run a normal set of heated gear. A volt meter will take the guess work out of the equation.