Soldering Irons/Guns

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Oh well, like an oil thread, you are going to get a LOT of input on this one. I have some experience with soldering and have built two avionics radios, four avionics audio panels, two avionics annunciator panels, a color TV set and countless projects over the years. I have soldered with the best equipment (some of which talked about already) and the WORST equipment including a BIC lighter (an especially lousy choice, but it worked on the road when I HAD to do something). Most of the proper techniques have been pointed out, the most important is to make sure the tip has enough mass (regardless of the "wattage" of the iron) for the parts to be soldered. A small pencil tip works good for small joints on PC boards but is lousy for typical MC wire. Any soldering iron will get "hot" enough, but without enough wattage, the tip will cool too quickly and then stay cold, regardless of how long you hold it on the joint. You can do more with too much mass and wattage than too little but the too-large tip may not fit into the work well. Too much wattage in a non-temp controlled iron will cause it to get much too hot if left alone for a few minutes. The best choice is to buy a professional iron with temperature controlled tip and 100 watts or more. This way, the iron can transfer all the heat required (if the tip surface on the work is large enough), but without overheating. The tip acutally has a bimetallic switch, or a temperature sensor, and the "base" controls the current to maintain the tip temperature. I have an old Weller "gun" type with two tips, a conical tip regulated to 650 degrees and a chisel tip regulated to 750 degrees. Almost all of what I do is with the 650 degree tip.

Regardless of the equipent used, however, it is necessary to get the work (parts) to the right temperature. For most joints, this just can't be done effectively without FIRST applying a bit of solder to the tip of the iron while contacting the parts. The tip is hot, but without some wetted solder at the iron tip/work joint, the heat just will not flow from the tip to the work. You have to maintain this "wetted" surface at the joint to keep the heat going from the tip to the work. Monitor this heating of the joint by touching the solder to the work, near the tip, then when the solder will melt on the work, feed fresh solder until "flow" into the work is verified, then remove the iron and let it cool. DONT MOVE THE ed JOINT. It may still "stick together" but the joint will be crystaline (cold) and is characterized by a flat, granular, grey look rather than the shiny, smooth, silver look. Play with some scrap wires until you get the feel for it.

As almost everyone has said...buy a good iron, once in your life, and the money will be well spent. Also, as some have said...buy GOOD solder, from an electronics store, not from Wal-Mart, where you don't know what you will get...probably floor sweepings.

Ed

 
Lots of good advise here. IMO the main things are to prep the tip and keep it clean.

How are you going to use it?

This is my favorite: https://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5HD27 I use it in the field at work and I'm often not near 120v power.

If you are going to use it on a work bench and electronics & wiring look at ones with variable power, to work on the bike in the garage a corded one 65watts minimum would work but if you want portability go for butane.

 
www.shopeis.com

www.hisco.com

You can get all your professional soldering equipment and supplies at either of these locations.

My company does PCB assembly for Thru-Hole and SMT Components and we purchase most of our supplies from both of these companies.

Solder with a flux core is referred to as "Cored Solder" and Slap is right, You want to get cored solder.

Make sure the solder iron is acceptable for Lead Free work, most of the components that you buy now are lead free and it takes a little more power to work with Lead Free.

The Hakko FP-102 is a good all around iron for Lead and Lead Free.

Slightly larger is the Metcal MX500 another all around good choice for Lead and Lead Free.

Stay away form the Metcal SP200 only good for Lead, although they market it for Lead Free, it is not capable.

As said before, keep the tip clean and re-tin the tip each time before returning it to the cradle.

Mark

 
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Solder with a flux core is referred to as "Cored Solder" and Slap is right, You want to get cored solder.
If you're doing electrical stuff, stay away from acid flux core. Acid flux is for plumbing.

Just be sure you buy solder for your intended purpose. For a typical home user, a roll will last a long time.

 
I hate electrical-and as a result am an idiot with it. This thread is Gold Level to me. ;)

 
Once you've mastered basic electrical soldering, you can move up to silver solder and a mini torch and start making your own cables for those antiques out in the barn/garage :yahoo: .

 
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Keep the tip clean. Even good ones suck if the tip is all shmuts.
Its Schmutz

other good tips by previous posters but you really need an iron wattage to match the job you are doing. Too big & its easy to burn off all the insulation on the wires. Too little, well you sound like you found that one out already. The tip, as mentioned, should be matched for the work too (hhmmm, I always had a problem there). You should 'tin' the tip & keep it clean. Always heat the work & make the solder melt on the work (ok I cheat sometimes & start it on the tip). Practice on some scrap wires - face it, you're not building the shuttle here. . .

 
Sorry to open this back up, but found this while cleaning out stuff from my fathers estate. The wide board is 5". Don't think it will work for ya.

DSC_0001-1.jpg


 

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