spark plugs

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dingofarmer

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So I got bored this weekend and decided to pull a plug, which lead to a replacement. So after 2 beers and $7.00, I was done and feeling much better. The electrode was well worn on all the plugs. I glanced at the FJR tech site and was amazed at how easy the the whole thing was. I did have a nice 6in wobble extension which was perfect.

 
So I got bored this weekend and decided to pull a plug, which lead to a replacement. So after 2 beers and $7.00, I was done and feeling much better. The electrode was well worn on all the plugs. I glanced at the FJR tech site and was amazed at how easy the the whole thing was. I did have a nice 6in wobble extension which was perfect.
You mean the tech site here? I need some info on that. thanks. Was the wobble extension necessary. Probably the only wrench I don't have.

 
So I got bored this weekend and decided to pull a plug, which lead to a replacement. So after 2 beers and $7.00, I was done and feeling much better. The electrode was well worn on all the plugs. I glanced at the FJR tech site and was amazed at how easy the the whole thing was. I did have a nice 6in wobble extension which was perfect.
You mean the tech site here? I need some info on that. thanks. Was the wobble extension necessary. Probably the only wrench I don't have.
Never needed a wobble extension. However, the only Yamaha tool I use from in the tool kit on the bike is the spark plug socket. My deep sockets are too fat to fit into the spark plug wells. The Yamaha socket works well.

This reminds me that my plug change is WAY overdue. Iridiums with 25,000+ miles on them. I guess its time. It will be interesting to see if there is significant visible degradation.

 
... Iridiums with 25,000+ miles on them...It will be interesting to see if there is significant visible degradation.
The center electrode of the Iridiums is so tiny that my eyes can't see anything significant, ever. Thank goodness for access to a microscope where I can truly see the condition of the sparkplug.

A new plug's center electrode is cut flat, the circumference edge should be 90º with no rounding seen, even under magnification. The bottom of the side electrode should also have 90º edges with no rounding seen in the area directly over the center electrode. The end of the side electrode should extend over the entire center electrode, but end just past the electrode. Because the center electrode of Iridium plugs is so delicate you should never check or adjust the gap, trust the plug manufacturer. How ever hard that may be for some of you :lol:

Used plug inspection:

Look for rounding of the center electrode's edges, rounding of the side electrode edges and any heat distortion that may have caused the side electrode to move. If a side electrode moves more than 0.008 - 0.010" the misalignment will prevent proper spark generation. Any rounding of electrodes is bad, the more round the harder it becomes for a spark to form and be strong. If you want to check the gap of the used plugs the best tool to use is a 'ramp sparkplug gauge' like this one:

853_2.jpg


 
... Iridiums with 25,000+ miles on them...It will be interesting to see if there is significant visible degradation.
The center electrode of the Iridiums is so tiny that my eyes can't see anything significant, ever. Thank goodness for access to a microscope where I can truly see the condition of the sparkplug.
I will definitely put these under a microscope when I pull them. It will be useful to know whether they are substantially eroded. It will be also interesting to see whether there is a difference in wear between the various cylinder positions. There has been some suggestion that the effective polarity differs between plugs on different cylinders which might affect the wear of the center electrode vs the side electrode.

While I can do a pretty good macro-photo with the standard camera lens, I don't have a microscope adapter for my camera so won't be able to post photomicrographs.

 
So I got bored this weekend and decided to pull a plug, which lead to a replacement. So after 2 beers and $7.00, I was done and feeling much better. The electrode was well worn on all the plugs. I glanced at the FJR tech site and was amazed at how easy the the whole thing was. I did have a nice 6in wobble extension which was perfect.
Just curious, how many miles and how many years?

Tools - Thin-walled socket with a 6" and 3" extension or two 6".... I also use a set of bent needle nose pliers that have about a 1/2" round loop bent into them (bought it that way), which is a perfect fit around the boots to pull them off and push them on. And a rubber thingie to push down over the plug to extract them from the depths.

 
So I got bored this weekend and decided to pull a plug, which lead to a replacement. So after 2 beers and $7.00, I was done and feeling much better. The electrode was well worn on all the plugs. I glanced at the FJR tech site and was amazed at how easy the the whole thing was. I did have a nice 6in wobble extension which was perfect.
Just curious, how many miles and how many years?

Tools - Thin-walled socket with a 6" and 3" extension or two 6".... I also use a set of bent needle nose pliers that have about a 1/2" round loop bent into them (bought it that way), which is a perfect fit around the boots to pull them off and push them on. And a rubber thingie to push down over the plug to extract them from the depths.

One of the most important things is to avoid cross threading upon installation. Rather than use a socket, I slip a 8" piece of 1/4" soft pvc tubing over the top electrode and use that to start the plugs. Easy to get the plug started and you simply pull it off when the plug is partway in. You can't put enough torque on the tubing to damage threads but there is still enough twisting power to get the plugs most of the way in. Finish it up with the Yamaha tool kit socket. Anti-seize on the threads.

 
Iridiums right out the box...pregapped to proper spec and anyway, easy to break bending parts around...

mine are in >40k an doing fine

Never seize on the threads and dielectric/silicone grease on the inside of the boots for easy removal

good insurance I tell ya...

:)

 
I had 39k, and stock NGK's , replaced with the same, ware was noticeable. I really only needed a little bit of an angle on the two middle cylinders, I also used an extra 3in extension. With the tank up sufficiently you should have room to get your hands in there.

There is truth to cross threading, make sure you put some anti seize on the threads and gently insert the plug, keep turning left, (((gently)) until it drops a bit into the threads, then slowly tighten and torque.

THe site was FJR tech, by warchild I believe, I was going to take pictures, but after reading it, I felt that this is one of the more simpler procedures for DIY.

I bought a nice set of wobbles at harbor freight, which were also used on the CCT, early last year.

Good luck and take your time.

 
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