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I used the W/Y wire between the abs ecu and the engine ecu.

This view is from inside the connector, so looking at it when plugged up I used the 5th wire (position) from the top right at the engine ecu
Speed_wire.jpg


 
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I used the W/Y wire between the abs ecu and the engine ecu.This view is from inside the connector, so looking at it when plugged up I used the 5th wire (position) from the top right at the engine ecu[img=[URL="https://s19.postimg.org/f21xifnzn/Speed_wire.jpg%5D"]https://s19.postimg.org/f21xifnzn/Speed_wire.jpg][/URL]
Thanks, I might look into that.

 
QUOTE (Spud @ Jun 21 2010, 10:30 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I think the odo's are off by that % as my GPS mileage on a trip is always lower than the odo tally on the bike...
Your odo is reporting the actual distance traveled. Your GPS is reporting the distance between satellite fixes, which is a bit shorter (if there are any curves it goes in straight lines between samples). You can check your odometer on a measured mile to confirm this.
I usually reset my trip meter to 0 at the state line and see what it says at mile marker 100 or something. The farther you go, the more likely it is to be accurate. My Goldwing registered 105 miles between the state line and mile marker 100 on Arkansas I-40. My FJ1200 did 110 miles on the same stretch. I still need to check the FJR, but so far it's been pretty dang close on shorter distances when I've checked it.

I know of some that are closer than a mile and some that are farther. But they seem to even out over distance.

 
QUOTE (Spud @ Jun 21 2010, 10:30 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I think the odo's are off by that % as my GPS mileage on a trip is always lower than the odo tally on the bike...
Your odo is reporting the actual distance traveled. Your GPS is reporting the distance between satellite fixes, which is a bit shorter (if there are any curves it goes in straight lines between samples). You can check your odometer on a measured mile to confirm this.
I usually reset my trip meter to 0 at the state line and see what it says at mile marker 100 or something. The farther you go, the more likely it is to be accurate. My Goldwing registered 105 miles between the state line and mile marker 100 on Arkansas I-40. My FJ1200 did 110 miles on the same stretch. I still need to check the FJR, but so far it's been pretty dang close on shorter distances when I've checked it.

I know of some that are closer than a mile and some that are farther. But they seem to even out over distance.
How accurate do you suppose those mile markers are? I think that the ones denoted as "measured mile" are the only ones you can trust to be completely accurate. Not sure that they stress about getting the other ones right.

And if you are getting real picky, like within a percent or two, remember the state of wear and model/make/size of the rear tire will impact the wheel's circumference.

 
How accurate do you suppose those mile markers are? I think that the ones denoted as "measured mile" are the only ones you can trust to be completely accurate. Not sure that they stress about getting the other ones right.

And if you are getting real picky, like within a percent or two, remember the state of wear and model/make/size of the rear tire will impact the wheel's circumference.
Exactly. Our trip meters only change at 1/10 mile intervals, so it'd be hard to know for sure anyway. Did you zero it precisely at the last mile marker? Is that 1.0 miles to the next one or 1.01 or 1.02 or ......? Then the mile markers may not be exactly a mile in many cases; they wouldn't put one in the middle of an exit, for instance.

I've wondered how they measure them. Do they just put the signs in a truck and plant one every time the odometer rolls a new mile?
rolleyes.gif


That's why I try to check it over distance; the farther you go the less the margin of error -- I think ;)

And you're exactly right that the wear on the rear tire will keep it from being perfect most of the time if it ever is. The tread depth will vary 1/4" from brand new to the wear bars.

 
And you're exactly right that the wear on the rear tire will keep it from being perfect most of the time if it ever is. The tread depth will vary 1/4" from brand new to the wear bars.

1/4" tread depth change = 1/2" in diameter = 1 1/2" in circumference on a wheel that has a nominal circumference of ~77" or a change of about 2%

 
And you're exactly right that the wear on the rear tire will keep it from being perfect most of the time if it ever is. The tread depth will vary 1/4" from brand new to the wear bars.

1/4" tread depth change = 1/2" in diameter = 1 1/2" in circumference on a wheel that has a nominal circumference of ~77" or a change of about 2%
This is exactly what I think about when I hear people say they mounted a size larger tire and "fixed" the speedometer error. Just a new tire of the same size will change it 2% ;)

 

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