Spider problem ?

[Glasgowmick63]

My bike is a 2008 ABS with 35,000 miles. When I turn ignition key on all that happens is the dash lights up with both green indicator lights on, main headlight indicator and neutral light on and the fuel display flashes on and off. There is no power to anything and petrol pump names no noise. After doing research online I assumed it was the ground spider issue and proceeded to find which ground spider had failed and attempt to fix it. Over a period of several weeks I have checked all of the ground spiders and they all appear to be in good order. Number 4 spider I could not locate but after opening up the harness where it should have been I discovered a bunch of wires soldered together so presume this is what once was number 4 spider.. I have also checked all other connectors that I can see (I have both side panels off) I have done everything that my limited knowledge of electrical matters has permitted and have come no further than where I was at the beginning of this problem with my bike in pieces and off the road for several weeks. If there is anyone who has had the same experience and found a solution or if anyone can offer some other checks I can do I would be very grateful. Many thanks.

 

[playinatwork]

Mick,

It sure sounds like you are in the same boat as me. Please check the thread below started by Griff about my Spider problem. I'd bet you need to dig into those wires soldered together and make sure there's not a problem there. Brodie and Queensland Ken gave me some solid advice that should help you too. Good luck.

 

[ionbeam]

..sounds like you are in the same boat as me. Please check the thread below started by Griff about my Spider problem...

Poof, and just like that, the thread you reference is no longer the "thread below", it's now here.

 

[JamesK]

I would start off by actually grounding that S4 bundle to the frame and make sure to use a good size wire for the ground, e.g. at least 12AGW as it's going to be providing the ground path for multiple ground connections.

Since the bike is in pieces already go ahead and independently ground the remaining (non-ECU) related spiders too.

 

[RossKean]

Your issue is definitely related to grounding. I had the S4 spider replaced under the recall (didn't fail). Later, I had a failure with S6. After that, I had a grounding issue related to a connector near S6. It was fairly hard to spot and at least one other person (that I know of) has had this same failure. The bike would run but lights and other electricals were very strange.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/158418-itsy-bitsy-spider/

 

[CCook82]

Agree with all above. I had the same symptoms on 06. Start with S4 bundle.

 

[mcatrophy]

Without wishing to insult you, have you checked that the kill switch isn't activated? Also, check fuse F (a 15 amp fuse) that does the fuel system.

The obvious way to check the spiders is, with the ignition on, check the voltage between any spider and the bike's frame (or the battery negative terminal). This should always measure well under 1 volt for all spiders.

 

[RossKean]

Without wishing to insult you, have you checked that the kill switch isn't activated? Also, check fuse F (a 15 amp fuse) that does the fuel system.

Neither of these will cause the strange symptoms with the dash lights and other oddities.

 

[mcatrophy]

Without wishing to insult you, have you checked that the kill switch isn't activated? Also, check fuse F (a 15 amp fuse) that does the fuel system.

Neither of these will cause the strange symptoms with the dash lights and other oddities.

Wasn't sure whether the dash lighting was normal (goes out after a second or so) or remains all on (faulty). If faulty, I'll go back to sleep. But my voltage test is valid for the faulty scenario.

 

[Glasgowmick63]

Thanks to EVERYONE that replied to this. As regards grounding the spiders .. Should this be done by attaching a wire from the actual spider to a good earth on the frame individually or can I join them up and then attach one wire to the frame ? An initial trial with just holding wires to the spider/s and then holding the other end to the battery negative was giving various results eg power to windscreen, horn, turn signals and dash lights going off but no sign of the fuel pump kicking in or power to the start switch .. Thanks again for taking the trouble to reply I hope I can solve this and pass it you to others who may experience the same thing. Prior to it failing completely it did stall a couple of times whilst riding but only momentary and started again to continue the journey luckily I was not in heavy traffic or in a more potentially dangerous situation I'm fast losing faith and trust in a bike I used to recommend to anyone willing to listen.

 

[mcatrophy]

One way is to remove the spider connector, then solder all the wires that went to it together.

My technique would be to cut back each wire's insulation for (say) half an inch, ensuring you are behind any sign of burnt copper. You may well have to cut back the loom insulation to free sufficient wire. Tin each wire separately (probably using extra flux, eg Fluxite, to get it to tin well). Twist all the wires together, wrap the whole caboodle with some tinned copper wire, then sweat the lot with solder. Finally insulate the joint - don't rely on ordinary pvc insulation tape as this will go manky (technical term) in a year or so.

Provided your soldering skills are up to it and you can get sufficient access, this will do all that is necessary. Running a wire (or wires) back to battery negative is belt and braces, not required, but will relieve the looms' connections a bit if there is still some junction resistance. Which there shouldn't be.

Unfortunately, there was no recall this side of the pond, or that would be the way to go.

 

[Donal]

One way is to remove the spider connector, then solder all the wires that went to it together.
My technique would be to cut back each wire's insulation for (say) half an inch, ensuring you are behind any sign of burnt copper. You may well have to cut back the loom insulation to free sufficient wire. Tin each wire separately (probably using extra flux, eg Fluxite, to get it to tin well). Twist all the wires together, wrap the whole caboodle with some tinned copper wire, then sweat the lot with solder. Finally insulate the joint - don't rely on ordinary pvc insulation tape as this will go manky (technical term) in a year or so.

Provided your soldering skills are up to it and you can get sufficient access, this will do all that is necessary. Running a wire (or wires) back to battery negative is belt and braces, not required, but will relieve the looms' connections a bit if there is still some junction resistance. Which there shouldn't be.

Unfortunately, there was no recall this side of the pond, or that would be the way to go.

That's odd, mine (2009) was called in to have the ground fix installed...........

 

[mcatrophy]

... Unfortunately, there was no recall this side of the pond, or that would be the way to go.

That's odd, mine (2009) was called in to have the ground fix installed...........

I stand corrected. So, Glasgowmick63, go to your local dealer, check whether your FJR should have been recalled and if so, check if it's been done.

 

[Queensland Ken]

There was one gent once that had the recall done, but the dealer forgot to hook up the lead.

 

[Glasgowmick63]

mcatrophy.. Thanks for your help on this. So far I have grounded the bunch of wires which I presume was once spider no. 4 I have also cut off the two spiders under the tank to the left and the spider under the glove box and wrapped and soldered them, I now have power to windscreen, turn signals, and horn and can turn the engine but only when the kill switch is on the off position. I will have to put the tank back on to see if bike will actually start.

 

[mcatrophy]

mcatrophy.. Thanks for your help on this. So far I have grounded the bunch of wires which I presume was once spider no. 4 I have also cut off the two spiders under the tank to the left and the spider under the glove box and wrapped and soldered them, I now have power to windscreen, turn signals, and horn and can turn the engine but only when the kill switch is on the off position. I will have to put the tank back on to see if bike will actually start.

Engine won't turn with the kill switch in the "stop" position. Correct behaviour. Nor will the fuel pump run.
Good luck ...

 

[Glasgowmick63]

As expected the bike won't start .. There is no noise from fuel pump. I'm waiting for some dielectric grease to arrive and will pack the other spiders with grease when it arrives.

 

[JamesK]

If I remember correctly from when I was doing the spiders on my FJR, there's also one somewhere in the front, accessible with the front cowl off. It was many years ago so I might be mistaken.

 

[Glasgowmick63]

Engine won't turn with the kill switch in the "stop" position. Correct behaviour. Nor will the fuel pump run.

Good luck ...

Oddly enough the engine does turn with the red kill switch in the "stop" position !!

But will not turn with kill switch in the on position.