I have a 2005 with ABS. I am not impressed with the ABS. You can press the lever or the pedal hard enough that the ABS doesn't function - you apply more pressure than it will relieve. I have locked the rear wheel twice during panic stops. I will say the front ABS saved my bacon when puttering slowly on wet grass. But I was barely squeezing the lever.
Split: 2005 ABS Lock Up Press or Stomp?
- Thread starter Ludwig61
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Mihalis fjr
Well-known member
Are you sure that the ABS works on your rear wheel?It shouldn't locked..You feel the pulsing on the rear pedal before the locking??
No you can't. Not if the ABS is functioning correctly and you are moving faster than the threshold speed.
Assuming the latter, the rear wheel will not lock up regardless of how hard or soft you press your brake pedal. If it does, there is something wrong with your ABS.
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As I said, I've locked the rear ABS twice at highway speeds. The first time, I laid a lovely 50' strip of tire before I got off the pedal because the backend was starting to come around. The second time was much shorter because I kind of expected it. I took it in to a local Yamaha dealer and they noted that it was working if you were not stomping hard on the pedal. Well, that's when I most need ABS! They say the system changed with GenII such that it is unlikely to ever get over-pressured like a GenI.
Don't just press on the pedal, stomp it HARD. If you have a GenI, you can lock the rear up that way. I won't test locking up the front, but since they share the same control unit, I'm not confident that it works better. I hope I cannot exert the same pressure with my hand that I can with my leg, but there are levers and other force changers in the system so I'm not 100% confident about the front never locking.
I'd be happy to demonstrate on the GenI ABS of your choice after my collarbone finishes healing....
Don't just press on the pedal, stomp it HARD. If you have a GenI, you can lock the rear up that way. I won't test locking up the front, but since they share the same control unit, I'm not confident that it works better. I hope I cannot exert the same pressure with my hand that I can with my leg, but there are levers and other force changers in the system so I'm not 100% confident about the front never locking.
I'd be happy to demonstrate on the GenI ABS of your choice after my collarbone finishes healing....
Fred's a smart feller and right.
That's not right then. Something is wrong with our bike. Speed or intensity of actuating the brake should not be a factor in when ABS deploys...only if the wheel begins to lock up.
I wonder if it's one of those blocks... that's maybe partially frozen up.
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Donal
Well-known member
Suggest you start by running the ABS diagnostics. If I wasn't so lazy I would search the forum for you but it's Saturday and the Dubai sevens are showing..............
Frushlorton
Well-known member
Had that issue with my 05. ABS stopped working on rear but never diagnosed if it was the block.
ionbeam
2 FUN
I'll pile on with everyone else -- your ABS system to the rear wheel is dun-fer. If the ABS light isn't on and the rear wheel locks then it is almost certain that the rear brake spool valve in the metering block is frozen. If you want to take a few minutes and jumper the ABS diagnostic connector you can diagnose the ABS system. According to the FSM, 5 mph is the minimum speed you need to be traveling for the ABS to work.
Stomping on the brake is exactly what you SHOULD do to activate the ABS. You can't press the brake too light, too hard, too fast, too slow to prevent ABS activation. The ABS is triggered when the ABS computer determines that the 'slip angle' of the front/rear wheel is 86% or lower. This is a confusing way to say that the rate the wheel is traveling is less than the speed of the chassis meaning that the wheel is slipping which causes the ABS unit to start to modulate the brake pressure to prevent wheel lockup. Below minimum speed and slip angle are the only two things that activate/deactivate the ABS (barring a blown fuse or electrical failure).
Stomping on the brake is exactly what you SHOULD do to activate the ABS. You can't press the brake too light, too hard, too fast, too slow to prevent ABS activation. The ABS is triggered when the ABS computer determines that the 'slip angle' of the front/rear wheel is 86% or lower. This is a confusing way to say that the rate the wheel is traveling is less than the speed of the chassis meaning that the wheel is slipping which causes the ABS unit to start to modulate the brake pressure to prevent wheel lockup. Below minimum speed and slip angle are the only two things that activate/deactivate the ABS (barring a blown fuse or electrical failure).
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Further FYI, on the one I have personally seen, and also others I've heard of, the electric motor runs in the hydraulic block when you run the ABS test, but the pulsing in the pedal (or lever in the case of the front) is weak as compared to a correctly functioning ABS block. This is probably what yours is doing too.
The ABS doesn't just relieve the pressure, it also blocks the flow from the pedal, which is the function of those spool valves, as I recall
The ABS doesn't just relieve the pressure, it also blocks the flow from the pedal, which is the function of those spool valves, as I recall
Bill Lumberg
Merica
Stomping hard will not overcome ABS. Period. If you don't have ABS, due to a non functioning system or otherwise, of course you can lock up a wheel. Next up- squeezing the right grip in your fist really hard will not overcome applied throttle.
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juniorfjr
Well-known member
When mine was functioning properly. The rear brake pedal would ratchet so positively you could feel it in the pedal.bang, bang,bang. Now she just locks up. Sounds like yours is toast as well.
Well, I can hope the dealer got it wrong. I'm going to have to wait on performing the test for a bit. If the rear brake spool valve is toast, as predicted, what are my options?
odot
CC member # 17,----- DUP member # 7, mensa club m
Sell it to me for cheap.......is an option.
RossKean
Well-known member
Short of replacing the ABS block, I don't think anyone has managed to resurrect one of these units. If you find an ebay unit, you would be taking your chances.
Mihalis fjr
Well-known member
A guy from Cyprus island had the same problem with his fjr.The rear brake spool valve was frozen.Caused from dirty brake fluid ''about four years without to change them''.Also he didn't activate often the system,perhaps never did that..The front was ok.He told me that the mechanic there,he took out the unit and blew it with high pressure compressed air and after that the frosted valve works fine again.Four months until now and his unit still works fine.I don't know if his mechanic used and some other product in combination with the compressed air but i don't think that..He told me that he used only very high pressure compressed air in the passages.
FWIW - a brand new ABS hydraulic block part # 5VS-85930-09-00 is $1139 at CheapCycleParts.com
Lowest price around I think.
Lowest price around I think.
RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
Do a flea-bay search..... sometimes can get used ones pretty cheap... e.g. a whole ABS pump for an '08 there for $49 right now (won't do you any good), but mostly nearer $200.
