Split: Why FJR Steering Head Bearing Re-Torque?

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If you were to leave the upper nut loose rather than tight against the rubber washer and lower nut, wouldn't there be the chance of the lower nut loosening?
No, because the tang from the locking washer is long enough to engage the lower nut, and with 85 ft-lbs holding it, that washer is not going to turn.
That makes sense now that you mention it
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My '04 Kawi Vulcan Nomad 1500 needed the steering head bearings replaced at 50k miles, which of course re-torqued the stem nut. It was a known issue, as the bikes were shipped with the bearings notoriously under-greased from the factory. The result was a loosey-goosey feeling in the front end, an un-planted feeling, and a serious wobble if the bars were let go on decel. Didn't have the tools, so six hundred bucks at a shop. Worth it, tho. Better handling.

 
Many bikes I've bought new needed head bearings re-torqued after a few miles.

My 2014 FJR. I got it home with 18 miles on the clock and started my usual process of going over the bike checking fasteners. First check, steering head nut. Spec is 85 lb/ft. Mine was about 50 lb/ft. With only 18 miles on the clock, it is all but certain that this nut was never torqued properly at the factory. Or, it bedded down during the 18 months it was gathering dust in the warehouse, being occasionally moved by hand. All the other fasteners were right at spec.

Yamaha apparently suffers with poor steering head design on several of its models. The Venture, a constant need to snug up the bearings, every few thousand miles. Interestingly, the Venture uses the same type of nuts with the rubber washer 'tween them. Some Venture folk have adopted a special made metal washer to replace the rubber, and claim it helps. I went so far as to replace bearings and races, to see if there might be something wrong with them. No help.

So I'm not surprised to find out this is also a problem on the FJR. I also note that keeping the bearings snug is easy on this bike, MUCH easier than on the Venture. So I don't mind.

 
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For those who replaced the balls bearing with tapered, are you using All Balls or other brands? Seems I read some place there was a quality problem with one of the vendors.

 
For those who replaced the balls bearing with tapered, are you using All Balls or other brands? Seems I read some place there was a quality problem with one of the vendors.
I used All Balls. Like everything else there's no definitive answer- I like them, others don't. Your choice but if I were to do it again I wouldn't hesitate to use All Balls again.

 
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Im hopefully going to trash factory ball bearing and go to needless. IMHO the choice by yammy wasent a good design.

 
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Im hopefully going to trash factory ball bearing and go to needless. IMHO the choice by yammy wasent a good design.
Walter, on what basis? The OEM bearing seems to hold up a long time, and most of us who think we have a problem, just need to clean, lube and re-torque the bearings. Installing tapered bearings is a bonus. I got them, so I'll put them in, but when I checked mine, they were still fine except for being loose.

 
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