Sporadically won't hold idle.

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Still have an issue. New TPS arrived and I replaced the old TPS with new TPS.

Changed the screen to the DIAG mode, set the new TPS to 16 -> Throttle closed, 100 -> Throttle fully open. Tightened the screws so it won't move. Verified settings 16-> Throttle closed, 100-> Throttle fully open.

Went for a 100 mile ride, everything seemed to be OK. Came back home, checked TPS readings again on DIAG screen. 15-> Throttle closed, 100-> Throttle fully open. Hmm, so it went from 16 to 15, but bike is fully heat soaked and no problems so I thought nothing of it. Think problem is solved.

2 days later (today), rode into town on the freeway, 25 minutes later take an exit and on the second light bike shuts off and wouldn't start again. Same old problem won't hold idle!! Pulled over to the side of the road, shut the ignition off, turn it on again and voila bike starts right up. Ride to Al's (feeger's) garage.

Immediately after stepping off the bike I put it in DIAG screen again and take TPS reading. 11-> Throttle closed, 93 -> Throttle fully open. WTF!!!!

Rode home with Al following me to make sure bike doesn't kill me on the way home, as soon as I got home, took TPS reading again.

First reading 12-> Throttle closed, 93 -> Throttle fully open.

15 minutes later: 11 -> Throttle closed, 94 -> Throttle fully open.

Moved the throttle open and close, open and close a few times. Take another reading: 16-> Throttle closed, 99 -> Throttle fully open.

Repeat the above turning off ignition each time and then putting bike in DIAG mode.

First couple of reading are always 11 to 12 -> Throttle closed, 93-96 -> Throttle fully open.

Then after moving the throttle open and close a few times - reading stabilizes to 16-> Throttle closed, 99-> Throttle full open.

Am I screwed or what??
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Think TPS came loose somehow? I tightened it pretty good and it wasn't budging. I am going to lift the tank again and verify since I did mark the position..

 
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So, the saga continues. (If anyone is still listening..) :)

Tore the bike open this morning to check if the TPS had moved. It had not moved at all and was securely fastened as can be. Verified reading with the tank up - yep still erratic (10 closed to 12 closed - 93 to 96 open) readings until the throttle was "pumped" a few times then settles to 16 - 96.

Didn't know what else to do, so greased up the TPS electrical contacts with Di-electric grease and connected and disconnected them several times. Then added more di-electric grease to the contact terminals and re-connected them a final time.

Put the bike in Diag mode. Voila - 16 closed to 100 open. Interesting...

Fired the bike up and let if run for a good 35 minutes, hoping that would be "heat soaking" enough. Took the diag readings after 35 minutes and it's good. Still 16 closed to 100 open.

Was running late for work, so ran out of time to sew the bike back up again and take it for a road test while it was still hot. That might have to wait till tomorrow or day after. I will post here then at that time...

Fingers crossed..

 
You need to take this fucked-up situation and get it unfucked in a hurry, young man!
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Because the Big Sky Rally is almost upon you... Check-in/Tech Inspection a week from this Friday!
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Unfortunately, I have little to offer you due to no experience... the TPS in my Gen I never gave me a problem, and never did after it was replaced under recall, either.

I am not sure your situation is fixed, despite the better electrical behavior upon adding a little dielectric grease. Everything you've describe *still* places the TPS under suspicion. But it is brand new, and ASSuming it's installed correctly, if you continue to have this stalling, then you will obviously have to consider other fault sources.

What those other fault sources might be, that's a good topic to discuss while we await testing results...

How about sticky fueling components that are both behaved/misbehaved as they go up and down the temperature scale? Like a fuel rail pressure regulator that is worn or otherwise sensitive to thermal conditions? Perhaps an intermittent fuel pump issue? While we still want it to be the TPS due to your symptoms, we'll need to get creative to get your fucked-up situation unfucked.

Tick-tock..... riding event in 10 days, mang.... is your shit fixed yet?
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Another thought, do you have a Power Commander installed? I had the same symptons last year and it turned out the Power Commander was FUBAR. Disconnected the PC and bike ran fine. Pulled the unit and sent it back to PC and they confirmed it was bad. Sent a replacement unit for minimal cost.

Good luck!

 
No Power Commander. I do have a PC unit sitting in the garage, just haven't gotten around to installing it yet.

Not sure if installing it now would prove to be a good thing (if ECU is dicked up), or if it will add another variable to this puzzle. I am going to leave it out for now till I figure out what else maybe wrong.

The TPS *should* be correctly installed. I lined up the slot in the TPS to the rotating tab on the bike and installed it as such, once the screws are tightened in - there isn't much chance of the tab skipping..

Also, going to take some contact cleaner to those electrical connection points and then di-electric grease again. Test ride maybe tomorrow..

 
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This is not related to the TPS problem, but the symptoms are similar to a problem that I may have created and then found while working on other issues with my bike.

I found that my Intake Air Pressure Sensor had started to separate into two pieces. When manufactured, two pieces are bonded together and if they separate it will give false vacuum readings and create a small vacuum leak. Temperature and vibration can affect the amount of separation and signal to the ECM. I did have some of the idle problems like yours before I found it. I put a light film of silicone on the mating surfaces and pressed it back together. It fixed that part of my problem.

I have seen these separate on at least two other bikes. The same sensor is used on numerous other bikes. If you go to the diagnostic screen for this check, it may or may not see the problem since it is looking for a value at rest and then a change in that value while cranking or running. On mine, it did reflect a value change, but it wasn't an accurate representation of engine vacuum, with the leak, and didn't want to idle.

This may not be related, but might be worth looking at.

 
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