Spring Cleaning

[donaldb]

Before I start this thread, I want everyone to know that I did try the search function, but was unsuccessful w/a return. However, as most know, I am from Mississippi, so if proven wrong I do have an excuse.

I recently received a ton of new farkles and I will be removing both fairings and some other upper cowling plastic w/in the next week or two. A soon upcoming farkle fest weekend is quickly approaching. My ? is, while I have this plastic off, is it ok to wash down the engine area? anything I need to cover first? is it ok to use bike brite to cut grease and film in the tiny hard to reach engine areas? Is it ok to use a pressure sprayer/knozzle? do's and don'ts???????????? Thanx!!

 

[Scab]

Me personally, I wash everything. Use a soft paint brush for those hard to reach areas. I just use a mild car-wash soap. I don't have any first-hand info on the bike special stuff. But don't use a pressure washer! It'll put water where you don't want it. Besides, you don't need it anyway. If you picked up a little road grime and are trying to get that off, there are several good products that will do that without using the pressure washer. WD40 is one that works well and is probably already on your shelf. (just stay away from brake pads)

Pressure washers are great - if you are washing the years off your sidewalk, but there is really no need ever to use on a bike or a car for that matter. Long run, you will cause more problems than the clean is worth. IMHO

 

[red2kcbr]

No high pressure water, like car-wash pressure. Garden hose with a nozzle is OK.

Use common sense when spraying water. Don't focus on the electrical connections.

Regarding any chemicals, READ THE LABEL! If in doubt, don't use it. There's a lot of cleaning solutions that will damage the finish of aluminum. The FJR is mostly aluminum.

I use S100 and a car-wash solution. Rinse with the hose. Use a clean rag for painted surfaces. Don't scrub the dirt in. Dry it off. I use a synthetic chami; I've also seen people use an air line.

That said, I usually wash my bike two or three times a year. I've got to get it cleaned up for the Wilbers install. Damn, I hate bike washing.

You'll get as many opinions as there are owners, probably. Ranging from running through the car wash every week, to a tea cup and toothbrush, to never washing.

 

[Scab]

Careful with drying the bike off with compressed air. It can blow the water exactly where you don't want it to be. I ride at least 500 miles a week. I wash my bike alot. I don't obsess over it, the thing was made to ride. I have my routine down to a science.

Give me a hose, car wash soap, a bug sponge, a couple of paint brushes, a micro-fiber cloth, 000 steel wool, WD40, and about thirty minutes. Good as new, time to ride again. Every 4 or 5 washings, give her a wax job. Soft, non cleaning, non abrasive wax.

She will love you for years.

 

[donaldb]

Thanx guys! I give the ole feejer routine baths throughout the year, depending on various factors. What I'm really wondering about is since I am going to have so much plastic off and have access to a lot of tight engine areas that I normally don't have access to w/plastic on, what's the best option for cleaning those areas, anything I need to stay away from, anything that I chould not do? Anything I need to watch out for? stay away from? I use some bike bright for quick normal routine washes, label says it's safe for aluminum and plastic and rubber, chrome, etc. I probably wont have this much plastic off again for quite some time. Thanx-bd

 

[qkslver]

This washing thing strikes fear in the hearts of Long Distance Riders. (shudder)

The only proper way to clean said bike is (quoting Mr. Chapman)>>>>>>>>>

"Thats what rain is for" (unquote)

 

[Pepperell]

I'm not as rigorous about doing a pre-ride inspection as I should be, but I do try to wash it every week or so. I try to check every major fastener as I wash, and check tire pressure, oil, coolant, etc. Wax every month or so during the season, check all the minor fasteners at that time. I'm looking for an excuse to pull the fairing stuff off this year so I can clean the insides.

As for water with the fairing removed, I'd guess that in your average deluge ride, everything gets wet underneath.

Pepperell

 

[dcarver]

Scab has a new source of income...

BIKE DETAILER of FJR's! Your welcome at my garage anytime, Scab!

 

[donaldb]

I wasnt sure where to post this, kinda goes w/spring cleaning I guess, so this will have to do. Took my bike to dealership last Saturday, dropped it off for service work, flush clutch and break lines and ck shaft splines, swing arm, u joint, all pivot points, sync throttle body's, ck steering head for play, just in general go over the bike in whole as it is a little over two years old now and weather has changed for the better and getting it in shape accordingly. Service tech just called bike is ready to pick up and the tab? $510.50 oooouuuuccccchhhhhhhhhh :dribble:

 

[NoCage]

Service tech just called bike is ready to pick up and the tab? $510.50 oooouuuuccccchhhhhhhhhh

Does that price include the KY jelly?Do you know where 29Dreams is? They have a motorcycle shop on the premises now. An ex-racer, Roger Bates, is the mechanic. He's been an A-level mechanic for a long time. His rates are a lot less than dealerships. You may can get him to schedule the time for you. I can give you a ride back and forth to your folks house.

 

[donaldb]

shit, damn, hell

 

[donaldb]

Sorry people I just cant let go of this yet--FIVE HUNDERED AND TEN DOLLARS!!!!!!!!!!! and this is almost all labor, little to no parts, just shop supplies. I guess we all have to learn these lessons---FIVE HUNDERED AND TEN DOLLARS :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry:

 

[Scab]

Did they at least kiss ya? $510 will go a long way towards a manual and tools. I feel you pain, man. And the bad part is that they are probably a straight-up dealer and not robbing you. Heck, labor around these parts is at $60 an hour and up. It doesn't take long to add up. What really sucks is when you pay $60 an hour for crap you can do yourself.

 

[C&C]

My local shop gets $80/hr. In order to do all the checks you requested involves quite a bit of disassembly, checking, lubing and reassembly. For sure, it is a lot of money, but it probably took them quite a bit of time to perform. I just changed tires last week and did some of the stuff you described; I ain't the fastest but it took me hours to do the tire removal, sidestand removal, u-joint removal, cleaning all the parts from road grime, relubing/greasing the appropriate items and finally re-assembling. It was therapy for me, cause if I charged myself, I know I couldn't afford me.

 

[FJRottie]

flush clutch and break lines and ck shaft splines, swing arm, u joint, all pivot points, sync throttle body's, ck steering head for play

Why not do it all yourself. It is not that hard even if you have limited mechanical skills. Save yourself some cash.