steep incline start
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Sagebrush
Well-known member
oopps my bad
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Stewart
Active member
My first choice, never failed yet and seems the easiest. Come to stop, hold front brake both feet on ground. Then with both feet on the ground and front brake still squeezed, ease the clutch into the friction zone until you feel it pulling the bike forward against the forces of gravity. If you do this right you can then release the front brake and still not move because you are effectively slipping the clutch without moving. Then roll on the throttle, eeeaaassssseeee out the clutch the way you always do and away you'll go. The easiest of all methods for me and never with issue yet. Make sure your low speed idle is set properly also or this and the other techniques will all be difficult.
Regards and God Bless,
Stewart
Regards and God Bless,
Stewart
Potential
Well-known member
That doesn't work on steep inclines, Stewart; most motorcycles will stall. However a similar technique is to release the clutch as much as you can without stalling the engine, then switch from front brake to throttle quickly enough that you don't roll backwards too far before you can apply gas and get moving.
The safer method, especially when cars are behind you, is to do what's already been mentioned: hold position with the rear brake, release clutch to the friction zone, rev the throttle relatively high, then release the rear brake and ease out the clutch. You won't roll back at all but this involves more clutch slippage. That's fine for wet clutches though.
The safer method, especially when cars are behind you, is to do what's already been mentioned: hold position with the rear brake, release clutch to the friction zone, rev the throttle relatively high, then release the rear brake and ease out the clutch. You won't roll back at all but this involves more clutch slippage. That's fine for wet clutches though.
S76
Well-known member
I sense you are more wondering about the clutch wear than how to take off on a hill.
So, I can say this. My friend has a Kawasaki ZZR. Faster than an FJR. He had over 60 (full throttle slip the clutch launches) 1/4 mile passes on the bike, and another 30K of street miles. He has drag raced all his life and is very good. The bike runs 10.3 if I remember correctly. When he finally pulled the clutch for inspection he found the fibre plates had only worn .003 and the metal plates where fine like new. No blueing or warping at all. So really an oil bath clutch is hugely durable.
Now, to those motorcycle manufacturers that think it proper to use a dry (rattling) clutch on the outside of the transmission:
What the hell were you thinking?
So, I can say this. My friend has a Kawasaki ZZR. Faster than an FJR. He had over 60 (full throttle slip the clutch launches) 1/4 mile passes on the bike, and another 30K of street miles. He has drag raced all his life and is very good. The bike runs 10.3 if I remember correctly. When he finally pulled the clutch for inspection he found the fibre plates had only worn .003 and the metal plates where fine like new. No blueing or warping at all. So really an oil bath clutch is hugely durable.
Now, to those motorcycle manufacturers that think it proper to use a dry (rattling) clutch on the outside of the transmission:
What the hell were you thinking?
Capt. Bob
Bilge pump. A novel idea.
Well this one came back from the dead 
so....
Since everyone bashes Fla. roads, move here.
From Orlando south, they're flatter than boards.
so....Since everyone bashes Fla. roads, move here.
From Orlando south, they're flatter than boards.
Sagebrush
Well-known member
Yeah, my bad....Well this one came back from the dead
Since everyone bashes Fla. roads, move here.
From Orlando south, they're flatter than boards.
happyPuppy
Well-known member
I have an AE, and I hold the rear brake on add throttle until I feel a tug as I let off the rear brake. I did this on about a 35% slope near. Mt Baker in WA. The hard part for me is the road merges to a single lane incline, into a big sweeper that declines as a inside radius. I keep the bars straight go about halfway into the lane and turn and start to roll on more throttle and lean a bit. It is hard as the bike is moving slowly and too much throttle I am in the other lane, not enough and you can dump it. A real workout for this old man.
Gizmo
Well-known member
Slap the bike in first while rolling to a stop. Put left foot on the ground and right foot on rear brake. I don't monkey with front brake on an incline. Too many things to think about for my simple mind. For me, I don't feel I have enough control of the throttle while braking the front end. Slowly release the clutch into the friction zone. When you feel the front-end start to dive, ease on the throttle, slowly release the rear brake and smoothly roll away. Simple and easy... Go out and practice dude. You'll be looking for inclines to stop at. :clapping:
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
You're asking for "logic" on the FJR Forum?
Okay, I'll bite -- If you're on a steep incline, the bike is already 10-15 degrees from horizontal, right? So essentially, standing dead still, you're pretty much pulling a wheelie without even moving. Grab too much clutch and gas with front end already "up in the air", at least in relation to the direction of gravity, it would be much easier to loop your bike in first then it would be in second.
That enough logic for ya?
sporto
Well-known member
I am thinking Grumpy was just being a wisenheimer and several here fell for the bait.
DaveInMn
Well-known member
What he said.
This is the method that works best for me, being a bit short on inseam and all...
ionbeam
2 FUN
>>DELETED<< :glare:
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EXPDSGT
Well-known member
You will have to release one of the throttle springs to hold the front brake and "slightly Rev." But I do agree that is the best way to do it. Here in Cali. they have red lights on the on ramps. Some have an off camber to the right or left, whether it is either an up or down grade. It is very dangerous to switch feet, on these ramps at these lights, to use the back brake to hold, either on up or down grade.
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
That's pretty obvious, isn't it, since you wouldn't need ANY clutch or gas to get moving downhill? Soapbox Derby racers do it all the time!
Grumpy's right...implied injudicious use of clutch or throttle in first gear going UPhill could result in a very good chance of introducing you to the pavement, butt first. Especially two up with a load in the sidebags and/or top box.
Go ahead, Alan...say what you were gonna say.
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
To visually illustrate just exactly what the hell point I'm trying to make (along with Grumpy) is the affect of a steep incline:
That's a 20 degree incline. That's a future endo-in-the-making if you're not careful.
That's a 20 degree incline. That's a future endo-in-the-making if you're not careful.
Bustanut joker
Well-known member
I think sagebrush should be ball slapped, or at least jimmy kicked for re-starting this damn thread
What the hell you know about hills Howie? ya get stuck on a parking block hadta wheelie over it?
Ah shit! I forgot, there are inclines leading to the causeways. :lol: :lol:
Ohhh mister fancy pants, brakes out the hi tech shit oooooo Whats next an overhead projector??? :bleh:
:jester:
What the hell you know about hills Howie? ya get stuck on a parking block hadta wheelie over it?
Ah shit! I forgot, there are inclines leading to the causeways. :lol: :lol:
Ohhh mister fancy pants, brakes out the hi tech shit oooooo Whats next an overhead projector??? :bleh:
:jester:
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RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Fixed it for ya!I think sagebrush should be ball slapped, or at least jimmy kicked for re-starting this damn thread
What the hell you know about hills Howie? ya get stuck on a parking block hadta wheelie over it?
Ah shit! I forgot, there are inclines leading to the causeways. :lol: :lol:
Ohhh mister fancy pants, brakes out the hi tech shit that I don't unnerstanz??? :bleh:
:jester:
Well Mister 'nut, ya had ta ask!
REAL WORLD FJR wheelie:
The only side-on photo of an FJR wheelie I could find quickly. I'm guessing it's a sustained, high-speed wheelie based on the blurred background.
That's a 40 degree incline plus a new set of fork seals thrown in for good measure.
Besides, OLD threads are the best ones!
And don't think I don't know nuthin' bout no hills!
Five minutes from my house:
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Dblhelix
Well-known member
Put bike in neutral, carefully balance and hop off bike on severe incline, run around to back before bike tips or rolls down the death hill and push full force...easy!
I am in the use the rear brake camp. Hold bike in place with rear while balancing with right foot in 1st gear. Begin revving/releasing clutch until there is enough engagement to feel you can release the rear brake and off you go! I am confused as to why anyone would seriously try this in any gear other than 1st. Its actually quite easy on most hills that are quite steep....shit, I did not realize how old this original post was.
I am in the use the rear brake camp. Hold bike in place with rear while balancing with right foot in 1st gear. Begin revving/releasing clutch until there is enough engagement to feel you can release the rear brake and off you go! I am confused as to why anyone would seriously try this in any gear other than 1st. Its actually quite easy on most hills that are quite steep....shit, I did not realize how old this original post was.
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