Steering Head Torque

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SilveradoSlick

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My reading of the shop manual is:

Tighten the lower ring nut with a spanner to 37 ft/lb

Loosen the lower ring nut one turn and then tighten it to 13 ft/lb

When I do this the steering head is loose and I can feel it move under hard braking (gotta go on a diet). I've tried tightening it a little more and it's been OK for a few hundred miles and then loosened up again.

Is the shop manual right? Any wisdom would be appreciated.

 
Good question.

I recently torq'd my steering head bearings according to the service manual directions you give and I think they still may be loose.

Hmmmmm..........

 
I tried the manual method, skeptically, and had the same result. Try 15lbs-thats where I'm at with good results and no binding. The manual seems to want the drain plug stripped and the headstock loose. Go figger.... :glare:

 
If you're not using the exact Yamaha tool does it make a difference on required torque? Tool centerline-to-centerline distance?
https://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing...ue_wrench_1.htm
Using a different torque wrench shouldn't matter at all. Using an adapter on a torque wrench *will* matter, which is what your linked diagram shows. However, any torque wrench manufacturer has to be accurate in making their wrenches, or they open themselves up for liability. As long as you're using a stock torque wrench (ie no adapters), 15 ft-lbs should be about 15 ft-lbs on any other wrench.

 
Good question.
I recently torq'd my steering head bearings according to the service manual directions you give and I think they still may be loose.

Hmmmmm..........
And how many miles did you rack up before you did this for the first time? :D

 
My reading of the shop manual is:
Tighten the lower ring nut with a spanner to 37 ft/lb

Loosen the lower ring nut one turn and then tighten it to 13 ft/lb

When I do this the steering head is loose and I can feel it move under hard braking (gotta go on a diet). I've tried tightening it a little more and it's been OK for a few hundred miles and then loosened up again.

Is the shop manual right? Any wisdom would be appreciated.
Technically, the shop manual is right. Yamaha has to give some hard number to go by; they can't just say something gray area like snug it up till it feels right.

Now what's that common internet expression? YMMV.

Myself, I go by the gray area method and disregard torque specs on something like this. Snug it up, as we say. Crank it down, jock the steering head back and forth to seat the bearings, loosen it and tighten it by sense of feel. If it's too tight you'll know it right away [binding].

But again, your mileage may vary.

 
Ignacio's bin-o-facts (Clicky)) lists having this checked at the dealer on delivery.... Anyone heard of '06 models coming with them loose? Not hijacking the thread, just curious.

As for getting the torque correct, I personally over torque by 10%, back off 1/4 to 1/2, and torque to spec. This allows fully seating bearings and displacing grease, then getting a correct torque. Alternately, torque to spec, go ride or move the bars back and forth a lot, then re-torque to spec.

Note: once the nut is torqued, you have to back it off some to re-torque it properly.

 
https://www.bikes-n-spikes.org/maint/shb/shb.html
I am not a multi-million dollar company with hosts of engineers and technicians on staff. This is according to Yamaha documents. I'll not put myself at risk by trying to claim anything other than their recommendations.
Ah yes, the same masters of the engineering universe that designed the valve guides, mileage computers, and demanded 33 lbs of torque on the oil drain plug., amongst other mechanical faux pas. While there is ample evidence of design brilliance on this motorcycle, even Da Vinci had his moments..... ;)

 
radman you are too cool. I think about some of your responses but sometimes don't post because it might hurt somebody's feelings. But you da man!

 
The mothership had the same problems on the 1st Gen Ventures in the late 80’s and early 90’s. Most of us gave up and went by feel. Snug the bottom nut to 35lbs and then back it off. Then bring it back up until you can start start to feel the slightest drag in the head stock. We replaced the rubber washer with the Furbur fix and then tightened down the second nut. The test of success was in the first ride. Too loose and the Venture would shake it’s head, too tight and it the front end was twitchy and wouldn’t track well. Sometimes it took a try or two. But when you get it right the big VR’s handle extremely well for 800lbs of touring bulk.

 
radman you are too cool. I think about some of your responses but sometimes don't post because it might hurt somebody's feelings. But you da man!
Don't get personal and there should never be a problem. This is a forum after all, any subject discussed here will get as many ideas and suggestions as there are members here, thats the whole point of this place. Pick one and decide if it's the one for you. Bounce's reply actually kinda surprised me because he is one of the smarter guys here and has been modifying and describing work arounds for this platform since it's arrival on out shores. His site has a ton of helpful info that has guided many through the maintainance trials. On this one though, I have to disagree.

 
radman you are too cool. I think about some of your responses but sometimes don't post because it might hurt somebody's feelings. But you da man!
Don't get personal and there should never be a problem. This is a forum after all, any subject discussed here will get as many ideas and suggestions as there are members here, thats the whole point of this place. Pick one and decide if it's the one for you. Bounce's reply actually kinda surprised me because he is one of the smarter guys here and has been modifying and describing work arounds for this platform since it's arrival on out shores. His site has a ton of helpful info that has guided many through the maintainance trials. On this one though, I have to disagree.

What, you missed the sarcasm? Me thinks Mr. Bounce has a wee bit o lawyer in him...*

All described procedures are for informational purposes only. All modifications and maintenance should be completed by a qualified mechanic and in accordance with Yamaha factory specification. All information is provided "as is". No warrantees are expressed or implied. Any work attempted using this information is done at your own risk and no assumption of responsibility for the accuracy or reliability of this info is expressed or implied.
In other words: You're on your own. If you screw something up, it's your own fault for listening to this author.










*[Legal Disclaimer]This is only the author's opinion.[/Legal Disclaimer]

 
Bounce's reply actually kinda surprised me because he is one of the smarter guys here and has been modifying and describing work arounds for this platform since it's arrival on out shores. His site has a ton of helpful info that has guided many through the maintainance trials. On this one though, I have to disagree.
what can i say? i was feeling especially vunerable that day and my ****** hurt.

 
The mothership had the same problems on the 1st Gen Ventures in the late 80’s and early 90’s. Most of us gave up and went by feel. Snug the bottom nut to 35lbs and then back it off. Then bring it back up until you can start start to feel the slightest drag in the head stock. We replaced the rubber washer with the Furbur fix and then tightened down the second nut. (snipped)
Yamaha missed it on the VMax, too. Follow the manual and the old wild thing would shake you off at 110. Most of the VMax community lived by the "Furbur fix".

 
Bounce's reply actually kinda surprised me because he is one of the smarter guys here and has been modifying and describing work arounds for this platform since it's arrival on out shores. His site has a ton of helpful info that has guided many through the maintainance trials. On this one though, I have to disagree.
what can i say? i was feeling especially vunerable that day and my ****** hurt.
*****.

 

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