Steering Stem Nut Torque?

[daytripper]

Just ordered a Zumo from James and am thinking about a stem mount from tech mount. Is there a torque value for the steering stem nut? I found the steering head adjustment on the website with the torque settings for the upper and lower ring nuts, but it does not mention the stem nut.

 

[HIS2006]

FJR 2006 – Service manual states Steering Stem Nut Torque:

115 Nm (11.5 m–kg, 85 ft-lb)

 

[SkooterG]

FJR 2006 – Service manual states Steering Stem Nut Torque:
115 Nm (11.5 m–kg, 85 ft-lb)

Same torque value for 03-05 FJRs also, though the size of the stock nut varies on some of them - I think they changed it from the 03 to the 04.

 

[Scab]

I think the '05 is 36 mm. (yep, just went and checked.)

 

[Mike-H]

Scab....old buddy....you got too much time on your hands again (excuse the pun) :lol: ...

 

[Scab]

Just a few steps to the ole building.

 

[Mike-H]

Private parking abode for your FJR Scab?.....Nice & classy.... :good: .....

 

[Scab]

I wish. Just a building. Not even a shop. Just a building. Nice and red-neck.

 

[Bounce]

Complete details in the table at the bottom of this page:

https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/shb/shb.html

 

[okmac]

I have been curious about this for some time and this seems like the place to bring it up.

I understand you first tighten the stearing head bearing nut initially to 37 ft. lbs, then loosen and tighten to 13 ft. lbs.

Then when you install the stem nut you tighten it to 85 ft. lbs.

My question is, when you tighten the stem nut to 85 ft. lbs does that put more pressure on the lower stearing head bearing and less pressure on the upper bearing . It seems like it would to me but I am sure there is something I am missing.

Someone , anyone ?

thsnks

Mac

 

[ionbeam]

My question is, when you tighten the stem nut to 85 ft. lbs does that put more pressure on the lower stearing head bearing and less pressure on the upper bearing.

The bottom castellated nut sets the compression load for both the upper and lower bearings. The second castellated nut is a ‘jam nut’ that locks the bottom nut in place, then in a belts & suspenders mode a two prong locking sleeve drops down over both nuts. The top steering head nut gets torqued to 85 lb/ft to hold the top triple tree bracket to the steering stem. The triple tree gets sandwiched between the castellated nuts and the top steering head nut. The 85 lb/ft is only pressing on the top castellated nut.

 

[El Gordo]

From experience....if this nut is not properly tightened (doh guess they missed it on the PDI) it will work loose and give you a clunk in the front end that definitely does not inspire confidence in your ride.

 

[okmac]

My question is, when you tighten the stem nut to 85 ft. lbs does that put more pressure on the lower stearing head bearing and less pressure on the upper bearing.

The bottom castellated nut sets the compression load for both the upper and lower bearings. The second castellated nut is a ‘jam nut’ that locks the bottom nut in place, then in a belts & suspenders mode a two prong locking sleeve drops down over both nuts. The top steering head nut gets torqued to 85 lb/ft to hold the top triple tree bracket to the steering stem. The triple tree gets sandwiched between the castellated nuts and the top steering head nut. The 85 lb/ft is only pressing on the top castellated nut.

Thanks a lot , that was really bugging me, I didn't realize the triple tree engaged the top of the castellated nut. Now it makes sense.

Mac

 

[velvet fog]

Complete details in the table at the bottom of this page:
https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/shb/shb.html

I'm in the midst of doing my 16,000 mile service which includes steering head repack, swingarm repack, shock linkage repack, coolant change, plugs, tbs, etc and found your site very useful, thanks Bounce. :clapping: :yahoo:

FYI I bought a single 36mm socket at a local tool store for $10. It works for the swingarm lock nut and steering head stem nut.

 

[Bounce]

Complete details in the table at the bottom of this page:
https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/shb/shb.html

I'm in the midst of doing my 16,000 mile service which includes steering head repack, swingarm repack, shock linkage repack, coolant change, plugs, tbs, etc and found your site very useful, thanks Bounce. :clapping: :yahoo:

FYI I bought a single 36mm socket at a local tool store for $10. It works for the swingarm lock nut and steering head stem nut.

glad it helped. always nice to know that it's being used.

just updated the windshield auto-retract page, too.

 

[squeezer]

FJR 2006 – Service manual states Steering Stem Nut Torque:
115 Nm (11.5 m–kg, 85 ft-lb)

Same torque value for 03-05 FJRs also, though the size of the stock nut varies on some of them - I think they changed it from the 03 to the 04.

You are correct. 32mm on the 03. 36mm on 04 and up.

 

[John_Dumke]

I just torqued my head bearings with the spanner (bought from Bike Johnny - it came airmail right away).

On my relatively new 06, it took about 1/3 -1/2 of a revolution for the bottom nut to torque down. So the nut was loose. I think a clunking sound in the front end is related to this being loose.

I torqued the bottom nut to 37 ft lbs. Click - no problem. But then I went to torque the top nut to 13 ft lbs and no click and the plastic washer just kept squeezing out. The plastic washer simply doesn't allow the nut to torque up to 13 ft lbs. So I had a choice, do I eliminate the plastic washer between the two nuts, or just cinch it down before the washer starts to deform. I elected to keep the plastic washer and cinch down by hand rather than torque with no washer.

I figure the lock washer that goes over top, and the 85 ft lbs from the nut above the steering stem will keep things in check and the plastic washer, might eliminate vibration, up through the triple clamp and bars.

Has anybody had this happen?

 

[Fred W]

I just torqued my head bearings with the spanner (bought from Bike Johnny - it came airmail right away).

On my relatively new 06, it took about 1/3 -1/2 of a revolution for the bottom nut to torque down. So the nut was loose. I think a clunking sound in the front end is related to this being loose.

I torqued the bottom nut to 37 ft lbs. Click - no problem. But then I went to torque the top nut to 13 ft lbs and no click and the plastic washer just kept squeezing out. The plastic washer simply doesn't allow the nut to torque up to 13 ft lbs. So I had a choice, do I eliminate the plastic washer between the two nuts, or just cinch it down before the washer starts to deform. I elected to keep the plastic washer and cinch down by hand rather than torque with no washer.

I figure the lock washer that goes over top, and the 85 ft lbs from the nut above the steering stem will keep things in check and the plastic washer, might eliminate vibration, up through the triple clamp and bars.

Has anybody had this happen?

John,

I just saw your old post. I don't know if you ever figured this out, but you were doing this procedure wrong. The way it's supposed to work is you torque the bottom nut to 37 ft lbs. This is just to compress the bearings on their seats and make sure everything is properly aligned. Then you are supposed to fully loosen the bottom nut and then re-tighten it to only 13 ft lbs. If you have been running around with your headset tightened to 37 lbs it might make the steering a bit stiff, and could lead to premature wear of the bearings.

 

[ML-FJR13AE]

This is really good advice but what about it when installing tapered bearings. How are they installed in comparison? - I'm I wrong if I say they are not torqued in?