Redfish Hunter
Gone Fishing
Yep, broken. Just scroll down for the rest of the pics and text, they tell you they're broke.
Stock Mirrors not working for me
- Thread starter fairytat
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
Yep, broken. Just scroll down for the rest of the pics and text, they tell you they're broke.
Someone with a metric tap and die set could drill and thread a hole where the stud is broken off and red loctite a new stud into place (assuming there's enough material there to support this operation). But I don't know that I'd buy those scratched up mirrors and attempt it even though I have the tools and know-how.
billysyd
New member
I'm replacing the stock mirrors on my FJR with FZ1 mirrors. The right one went on easy but I cant get the dash off the left side to get to the bolts. HELP!!
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
In this picture (click on it for larger view):
Undo:
- one cross headed screw visible under the glove-box lid,
the other cross-headed screw that is shown edge-on just right of the bottom centre[edit]Unnecessary, see post below[/edit]- the black hex screw already removed just left of bottom,
- and the two plastic rivets already removed right of centre.
The front panel is very similar to the right side, undo:
- the two hex screws visible in the second picture,
- the headlamp adjuster knob and the nut underneath (some peops leave the nut done up and undo the cable connection underneath),
- and the plastic rivet under the tacho (also just visible in the pic to the right of the headlamp adjuster knob).
Putting it all back again is the tricky bit ...
Last edited by a moderator:
bluesdog
Well-known member
^^ Pretty much it.
On my '11, the screw under the glove box lid is a hex head, and I don't remove the other x-head/phillips at the inside, (the edge-on one), because it just holds the grip warmer unit onto the panel.
I unscrew the headlight cable connector from the underside. It's tricky to get it threaded on again, but easier imo than trying to line up the cable to the knob if taken off that way. To make things a bit easier, I use zip ties on the cables just below the knurled fasteners, to prevent the fasteners from sliding down along the cable.
I unplug the grip heater control unit, because the dangling part has metal bits which can scratch the finish on the fairing around the glove box.
The left front panel requires a bit more flexing to remove than the right one, as the glove box interferes. It will come off/out, though. Just be patient.
HTH
On my '11, the screw under the glove box lid is a hex head, and I don't remove the other x-head/phillips at the inside, (the edge-on one), because it just holds the grip warmer unit onto the panel.
I unscrew the headlight cable connector from the underside. It's tricky to get it threaded on again, but easier imo than trying to line up the cable to the knob if taken off that way. To make things a bit easier, I use zip ties on the cables just below the knurled fasteners, to prevent the fasteners from sliding down along the cable.
I unplug the grip heater control unit, because the dangling part has metal bits which can scratch the finish on the fairing around the glove box.
The left front panel requires a bit more flexing to remove than the right one, as the glove box interferes. It will come off/out, though. Just be patient.
HTH
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
Correct. I always remove it then kick myself for doing so. Edited my post above.
I put a piece of old towelling or similar over the plastic to protect it.
Last edited by a moderator:
