Strange Oil Levels

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Sounds like a plan. Thanks for the tips, all! And I look forward to riding to work tomorrow (that's a full 17 miles one way -- definitely enough time to get nice and warm).

 
I am telling you all. DON'T OVER THINK THIS.
It happens. All the time. To most folks FJRs.

211k on my FJR. I quit worrying about it a long time ago. I really suggest you do the same.
I agree. I never sweat an overfilled level when the engine is dead cold. I always sight the level per the manual, after a good heat cycle and several minutes after it sits on the centerstand.

EDIT: I also try to limit short runs on the bike. I work less than two miles from home. When I ride the FJR to work, I take the long way round, which clocks out to 12 miles through a tasty twisty or two and a straight near the end where I can get the rpm up. If I don't have my lazy ass in gear soon enough to do that, I take my '95 pickup -- I don't care if that melts down. If I'm up early and have the itch, it can take 40 miles to get there.

 
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I am telling you all. DON'T OVER THINK THIS.
It happens. All the time. To most folks FJRs.

211k on my FJR. I quit worrying about it a long time ago. I really suggest you do the same.
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+1. My 04 did this once. Didn't smell any gas from the oil, oil wasn't milky. When I initially changed it I bought it to the upper level. The bike runs fine. I ended up removing a litttle oil (by loosening the oil filter and draining a tad).... Don't know why it does this either, perhaps after several days its takes awhile for ALL the oil to drain down and RAISE the level...

As a side note, we had an oil pan off an 08 for a time sert for a drain plug. After initially draining the oil, the rest of the bike was disassembled as we waited for a new pan gasket and got the time sert installed. We put the pan back while waiting ( to keep crap out), a fair amount of oil (didn't measure it)continued to drip down to the pan over a weeks time(which would raise the oil level)......

Scott

 
You've got to check the oil correctly; put bike on centerstand (a flat surface of course), run the engine to warm (or check after a ride), turn off engine and watch site glass level rise. You've got to read the sight glass within a certain amount of time (the level will stabilize for quite some time but may or may not remain at that fixed level) you could encounter oil level creap (by capillary action, which could give you a false high level).

 
This never seemed like a problem to me. When my '05 is running, the oil level is lower than when not running. The running oil level is on the low end of the sight glass. I wouldn't lower my non-running oil level after seeing how low the running level is.

 
This never seemed like a problem to me. When my '05 is running, the oil level is lower than when not running. The running oil level is on the low end of the sight glass. I wouldn't lower my non-running oil level after seeing how low the running level is.
It's supposed to be that way. It's a dry sump system where very little of the oil actually remains in the oil pan.

 
I ran it to work and back yesterday (32 miles) and only noticed a negligible increase in level. I think it's good now, but I'll keep an eye on it.

 
This never seemed like a problem to me. When my '05 is running, the oil level is lower than when not running. The running oil level is on the low end of the sight glass. I wouldn't lower my non-running oil level after seeing how low the running level is.
It's supposed to be that way. It's a dry sump system where very little of the oil actually remains in the oil pan.
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I don't believe its considered a dry sump system as the oil pan/sump is full of oil with the oil strainer being immersed in the pan oil.

It is my belief that a dry sump system has a separate container (usually apart from the engine) that holds the oil and then the oil pump (electrical/mechanical) then pressurises and pumps oil back into the engine, such as most harleys....

 
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Changed my oil (for the second time) a couple of weeks ago. I'm always cautious not to overfill the case and this time was no different. The oil seemed to settle right below the upper dot on the sight glass. A couple of weeks later, I noticed the oil level was above the second dot. Didn't think much of it (figured I must have just had the bike at an angle) but it didn't go away after sitting on the center stand overnight in my garage.
At that point I decided, however dumb this may be, that I should drain the excess out (not even thinking of the crush washer). So I drained what I assumed to be the excess out and rode to work. No leaks, so the crush washer turned out to be not too big of a deal. However, even after leaving the bike on the center stand overnight on a level spot, the oil level is still above the second dot. It actually seems to have filled up the entire sight glass.

I'm not losing any coolant, so that isn't it. What else could be causing the level to appear to go up? I never removed the filler cap, so could there be some weird air bubble in there?

I'm considering just doing a full oil change again, but would rather save the $50 if I could since this is such a fresh change. As always, thanks for the help!

EDIT: I only have 6,000 miles or so on the bike.
am a new fjr owner.not a new bike owner,have owned 5 new bikes in last five years,do all my own oil changes. on new fjr, changed at 100 miles,600 miles,300 miles, 6,00miles,9,000 miles, used yamaha filter and castrol actevo 20w50w, use crush washer twice, put in what manual says 4 qts + 6.23 oz. never had a problem, have a 72 month warranty,dealer is happy. this is a great site, tons of useful info and facts,have learned a lot on here, but ask any 100 people the same question and get 100 different but similar answers, I luv my baby and take better care of her than I do myself. my advice, follow service and owners manual. this is just one crazy old mans opinion, enjoy that new fjr, its a great ride

 
At that point I decided, however dumb this may be, that I should drain the excess out (not even thinking of the crush washer). So I drained what I assumed to be the excess out and rode to work. No leaks, so the crush washer turned out to be not too big of a deal. However, even after leaving the bike on the center stand overnight on a level spot, the oil level is still above the second dot. It actually seems to have filled up the entire sight glass.
Hard to believe that you can drain out excess oil and then have the level rise to fill the entire sight glass. Is it possible that you drained out more than necessary and the oil level is now actually below the sight glass completely? I'm just askin'.

The other thought I have is about the effect of heating and cooling on the spaces the oil occupies and how that might affect what we see in the sight glass. When things heat up, they get bigger. When they cool off, they get smaller. There might be one or more chambers somewhere in the lubrication system that actually hold less oil when they are cooler (smaller) and therefore the oil level might appear to be higher.

By the way, my level moves around a bit like everyone else's here. I find the most reliable measure is obtained about 10 minutes after a ride. To tell you the truth, though. I hardly ever check the oil level after I am sure that I have filled it adequately after a change.

 
SkooterG is right to say don't worry about it and go on with your riding life. Everyone has riding habits that constantly change, if you take a short ride and manage to generate condensation in the crankcase which possibly shows an increase in the volume of oil as reflected by the sight glass, it will certainly blow out the exhaust next time you take her out for a longer ride. The area you live in and your current climate (i.e. temperature, humidity) will effect how much, if any, condensation will form. I've noticed my oil level only fluctuates during our monsoon season when it gets really humid. Other than that time of year, my oil level stays constant because of how hot and dry it gets here.

Condensation is the reason manufacturers recommend an oil change every so many months even if you don't ride. Condensation (water) is a form of cancer to your bearings creating rust, chips and pits if allowed to stand in the crankcase for any length of time. For those of you that may allow the bike to sit throughout an entire winter period without riding, you should start it at least every other week for several minutes allowing it to reach operating temperature to not only blow out any possible condensation, but to prevent the seals and bearings from becoming dry.

Along with proper preventive maintenance and living where the riding season is year round, could be a factor that would allow 200K+ miles and still running strong.

 
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