Stripped Drain Plug Thread temp. fix !

[Dudewado]

In the meantime I am going to replace the oil pan, all in all it will probably cost me about $300. A very expensive lesson to say the least. Next time, no torqure wrench.
Yes, and I still feel like an *****.

I can understand your anxiety about having a "fixed" oil pan. But, a properly repaired one will be as good, if not better, than the original.

Like the machinist said, I have used Heli-Coils many times in an industrial environment. (Electrician/Millwright)

The only time I have had them fail has been due to bad preparation or the fastener was overloaded for the application.

Any of the mentioned inserts would be more than adequate, if installed properly.

Call a couple of machine shops, or even some auto repair places. (They have BTDT) Find someone who seems to know what he is talking about, and I bet you will end up with a lifetime repair for ~$50. I'd do it for free if I was closer.

John

 

[FlyingLow]

I would hope that trolling newbies who are considering purchasing an '08 read these threads and learn from it ahead of time: No torque wrenches on the drain plugs!

 

[kaitsdad]

Weld the drain plug in place then ride like BrunDog!

OHHHH,, now that's just...... well............ MEAN !!

True, but MEAN !!!

:lol:

 

[FJRay]

I will still be glad to fix it for free and send it to the next unfortunate soul that needs it. all it would cost is the postage each way and I will repair the next one and on and on and on.

 

[cougar8000]

Why not just replace the pan? When my friend decided to change his own oil on his race bike he did the same thing. I have talked him into a total replacement for safety reasons. New pan for his CBR was roughly 60 shipped. I have done the install and no problems.

I think ~60 buys lots of peace of mind.

 

[frayne]

My thinking too. I wouldn't hesitate to put new tires on the bike if I had any doubt about their condition. Although I'm sure one can get a good fix, I would rather have new and the piece of mind that comes with it. Again, a lesson learned.

 

[jestal]

I'm not a metallurgist (I'm sure jestal will be along shortly) but as a structural engineer we are made aware not to be connecting dissimilar metals together (steel to aluminum for instance) without special details as corrosion will typically result - which is not good in a structure - nor in a motorcycle oil pan I would think either.

There certainly is a valid concern about galvanic corrosion resulting from attaching dissimilar metals together.....but....it is pretty common to put steel bolts (or thread inserts) into aluminum holes in engines. I would seriously doubt that there would be any sort of problem or structural failure at issue here. You can sense an example of the galvanic corrosion happening on a very minor level, though, when you try to remove a steel bolt from an aluminum hole after it has been there for decades....like those philips headed screws in japanese dirt bike engine covers and cases. Impossible to remove without a hammer type impact tool. They were literally welded into the holes from the microscopic action of galvanic corrosion at the thread interface. For galvanic corrosion to be a concern there needs to be a corrosive element or atmosphere in addition to the dissimilar metals. Any moisture or even the atmosphere can do this over long periods of time. Inside an engine, most concerns over galvanic corrosion are non-issues as the presence of engine oil tends to seal off the joint and minimize or prevent any galvanic action. If anything is done at all it is usually a plating on the threads of a fastener to minimize the galvanic effect of steel against aluminum. Spark plug threads (intended for aluminum heads) that are nickel plated is a good example.

Quite a bit of a diffferent situation from bolting a steel plate against an aluminum plate and spraying it with salt water in the winter..... The aluminum can "return to the earth" in a jiffy in this situation if the proper measures are not taken. The folks making aluminum framed snowmobile trailers learned this early on as they bolted steel axle brackets to the aluminum frame spars only to have the aluminum "rot" out from under the steel bracket. Now you see them with an isolating pad or layer of material in the clamped joint so that the steel doesn't touch the aluminum.

If you think aluminum is a problem try putting a magnesium part on a car or engine. Magnesium will dissapear in salt water and the galvantic effects are quite strong if steel bolts are used in the presence of moisture or salt water from road salt. Mag requires special bolt coatings, isolating pads, elastomeric isolators for fasteners, special coatings, etc. to prevent the part from literally "disappearing" due to galvanic action.

 

[chiefj48]

ANTI-SEIZE

have any of you tried using it? whenever you have two different metals, you need it! NEVER replace a spark plug without it!!

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

If Oregon is too far to ship is to FJRay. I'll make the same offer. You could be riding already.

A repair will do everything a replacement will do, hold oil in and allow it to drain completely.

The South will ride again!

 

[radman]

I'd fix it without hesitation, be it Timesert or heli. Either would render a repaired pan better than the original.

 

[jestal]

ANTI-SEIZE
have any of you tried using it? whenever you have two different metals, you need it! NEVER replace a spark plug without it!!

Be carefull with the anti-seize.

It dramatically alters the torque/tension relationship of a threaded joint. MUCH less torque is required when anti-seize is present and/or it is much easier to strip a threaded hole (especially in aluminum) when anti-seize is used. Not saying don't use it but severe awareness is needed with anti-seize on aluminum threads to prevent inadvertent overtightening.

Additionally, anti-seize is conductive so if it gets on the spark plug tip it will cause a short to ground across the porcelean. Not too much of a problem the first time the anti-seize is applied but once it fouls the spark plug hole it is pretty easy to get residual anti-seize on the plug tip of a new plug on subsequent spark plug changes.

There is a time and place for anti-seize but I would personally not recommend it for spark plugs due to the problems it can cause.

 

[Constant Mesh]

On the NGK spark plug box it shows tightening a plug with a new washer 1/2 turn after it's finger snug. Anti-seize would not be an issue using this non-torque tightening guideline. Of course reinstalling a plug with a previously compressed washer is a different story.

A Honda Owner's Manual offers this guideline which may be useful:

Tighten each spark plug:

-- about 1/8 - 1/4 turn after it seats (if the old plug is good).

-- about 1/2 turn after it seats (if installing a new plug).

Fortunately Jestal recommended not using Anti-seize before I changed my plugs so I avoided any over-torquing and/or electrical problems.

 

[chiefj48]

ANTI-SEIZE
have any of you tried using it? whenever you have two different metals, you need it! NEVER replace a spark plug without it!!

Be carefull with the anti-seize.

It dramatically alters the torque/tension relationship of a threaded joint. MUCH less torque is required when anti-seize is present and/or it is much easier to strip a threaded hole (especially in aluminum) when anti-seize is used. Not saying don't use it but severe awareness is needed with anti-seize on aluminum threads to prevent inadvertent overtightening.

Additionally, anti-seize is conductive so if it gets on the spark plug tip it will cause a short to ground across the porcelean. Not too much of a problem the first time the anti-seize is applied but once it fouls the spark plug hole it is pretty easy to get residual anti-seize on the plug tip of a new plug on subsequent spark plug changes.

There is a time and place for anti-seize but I would personally not recommend it for spark plugs due to the problems it can cause.

i've been using anti-seize for over 40yrs, and have never had any problems with it. i've NEVER put a spark plug in dry, and never had one foul cause of it. i do agree with you, that it is conductive, and if you get it on the electrode it will cause a problem. in the old days most of the hardware used on the bikes were cad plated, which is a lubricant, and would keep them from seizing. there are also times when you need loc-tight on the bolts, so you be the judge of which is best for the correct application.

joe

 

[clutchless1]

A Helicoil is fine in this situation. They are used to repair damaged or missing threads in cylinder heads for spark plugs that are subject to high compression, explosion, fuel, to name a few tings. So to keep oil inside of the engine with little back-pressure should be a piece of cake.

If you want another idea. Remove the pan and take it to a machine shop, they can add aluminum weld around where the threads are missing, and re-thread them into the pan. I would figure the cost is going to be about $150.00 though, make sure to ask before getting it done. Oh, be sure to have the torque wrench is st at 31 ft.lb (out of the repair manual, seems :blink: too high?) By the way the thread size is M14.

Good Luck,

clutchless1

 

[SuperFourx]

$150.00 seems way too steep. A Helicoil Repair Kit would cost way less.

 

[Capt. Bob]

$150.00 seems way too steep. A Helicoil Repair Kit would cost way less.

Just under a year and a half

 

[Rolavine]

I've had good luck with regular teflon pipe tape, it is good to about 500 degrees F and has never leaked on me. When I did my own cars oil changes I always used it. With the tape on you only need a bit o torque to keep the oil in. While not a good plan to repair a major thread rip out it will do for a some small harm as the remaining threads won't be stressed.

Of course I take no responsibilty for this advice, just to say I've used it myself with good effect. Also, I've never been the cause of a stripped oil plug but some of the drug addled rejects who manage to gain meaningful employment at places like jiffy lube seem to delight in putting in the wrong plug way too tight. On the bike I can't afford to have the oil changed by anyone else, and it is very easy so in goes the cheap Walmart filter and the expensive rotella synthetic.

 

[John from CT]

I've had good luck with regular teflon pipe tape, it is good to about 500 degrees F and has never leaked on me. When I did my own cars oil changes I always used it. With the tape on you only need a bit o torque to keep the oil in. While not a good plan to repair a major thread rip out it will do for a some small harm as the remaining threads won't be stressed.
Of course I take no responsibilty for this advice, just to say I've used it myself with good effect. Also, I've never been the cause of a stripped oil plug but some of the drug addled rejects who manage to gain meaningful employment at places like jiffy lube seem to delight in putting in the wrong plug way too tight. On the bike I can't afford to have the oil changed by anyone else, and it is very easy so in goes the cheap Walmart filter and the expensive rotella synthetic.

I stripped a screw in the vent hole of a Mercruiser Inboard Outboard drive leg YEARS ago, it wasn't stripped too badly (don't ask how it can only be partly stripped), but I just put about 2 wraps of teflon pipe tape on the screw and made it hand tight and prayed. Well it's been probably over 5 years, I remove the screw and drain the oil every spring and so far not a trace of water or any leakage of oil that I can discern. I don't recommend this on your motorcycle because if it falls out you could coat your rear tire and fall. I merely mention it as a point of information. If it were my bike I'd spring for the new oil pan, if it can be replaced without removing the engine then just chalk it up to the cost of doing business and as 'your punishment'. Also when you someday sell the bike you can look the new guy in the eye and tell him your story and hopefully prevent him from similar mishap.

 

[RadioHowie]

Weld the drain plug in place then ride like BrunDog!

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!

Good one, D.

Brun's oil's gonna be in there SO long, it'll turn BACK into dinosaurs before it ever needs changin'! :rofl:

 

[Bustanut joker]

Who is this Brun you speak of?? Or the other dude... jestal???? And who opened this old piece of **** anyway??

Nebbermind... Howies in control :dribble:

:jester: