Stripped final gear case filler bolt hole

[SouthernCruizer]

... now you have steel threads that are way stronger than the aluminum....

But just remember, the insert is screwed into aluminium threads that can still be pulled out by over-tightening the bolt, though much less likely now.

I have a bit of experience with heli coils...like he stated above, over tightening and stripping the softer aluminum is a real possibility, so throw that torque wrench in the trash before you even think about using it again for the drain plug or filler.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

What's funny is its the same size bolt/threads as the oil drain bolt however the torque spec's are MUCH higher on the engine pan drain plug... Hummmmm

 

[RossKean]

What's funny is its the same size bolt/threads as the oil drain bolt however the torque spec's are MUCH higher on the engine pan drain plug... Hummmmm

Perhaps this is because of the material it is threaded into. The rear drive is a cast aluminum piece. Is the oil pan cast or formed (I assume cast)? Either way, it is likely to be a different alloy and may exhibit less tendency to strip. In any case, I don't use a torque wrench for either and I am pretty sure that I tighten the oil drain lug to a lower torque than specified in the FSM. I haven't ruined one yet (or had a leak).

 

[Fred W]

Both the drain and fill plugs in the final drive are specified at 17 ft-lb. The oil drain plug is specified at 31 ft-lb. All are threaded into cast aluminum casings and all are the same thread pitch and size drain plugs.

I have never in my life heard of torquing a drain plug to 31 ft-lb dry, never mind one with oiled threads after an oil drain, buit I do believe that the factory is torquing them that high. Everyone seems to notice that the plug is a bitch to get loose the first time from the factory.

That 31 is the torque spec that is wrong. The 17 ft lbs is about the right amount for all three locations to crush the washer and get a good seal, as well as hold it securely in place.

Iasked the question earlier because I have never heard of anyone stripping out a drain plug hole at 17 ft-lb.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

I've used nothing but spec'd torque values, and I think I came close to stripping mine. It felt really rough, almost as if it was cross threaded even though it wasn't. I backed off torque on both the oil and FD a few pounds for good measure. Now a couple of changes later and it feels normal again. No issues with leakage.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

No, its cast, just like the FJR. Same drain bolt, same length.

They now, if you order an oil change "KIT" for the OB, use a solid washer, not a crush washer (it did use the same crush washer as the FJR and my FZ6)..

In the OEM service manual for FZ, for checking the valves, the manual has you rotating the engine BACKWARDS, CCW, an obvious mistake that has never been corrected.

The FZ engine drain plug is spec'ed for 31 ft lbs

my F150 OB engine is spec'ed to 20 ft lbs

The FJR, as I recall is 30 ft lbs...

All the same bolt. Add in oil on the threads and the ultimate torque is even higher...

From my FZ6 Yamaha, OEM manual(PDF)

 

[BigOgre]

That 31 is the torque spec that is wrong. The 17 ft lbs is about the right amount for all three locations to crush the washer and get a good seal, as well as hold it securely in place.

I know many here advocate for not having to change out the crush washer each time and I agree it probably isn't necessary to prevent leaking. Doing so though does give you a good indication of how tight you need to go. Once you feel the 'crush' of the new washer you're probably good to go. (Or stop as the case may be.)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I know many here advocate for not having to change out the crush washer each time and I agree it probably isn't necessary to prevent leaking. Doing so though does give you a good indication of how tight you need to go. Once you feel the 'crush' of the new washer you're probably good to go.

What's neat about the solid washer (with the outboard), it tightens down much faster without the "is the crush washer crushing or am I stripping the threads" feeling.

Doesn't leak a drop either, even torqued at 12 vs 20.

I put a copper washer (made for auto, oil pan's) on my drain plug on the bike which is reusable. Been there

about 7 years..

 

[HotRodZilla]

If you guys don't know by now how tight to tighten an oil drain plug, simply by feel, you're probably in over your heads. I've been changing oil in vehicles since I was 12. Never stripped a bolt yet, and never used a torque wrench. The second best plan is to use the crush washer. Tighten until the washer crushes, and then you're done.

This is simple, basic, garage 101, stuff guys. Sheesh.

 

[leclairk]

Went to change my final gear oil and when I tried to torque down the filler bolt I discovered the hole is stripped (not the bolt unfortunately).

So, looking back on this now that it is all repaired, what torque value were you trying to achieve when it stripped? The spec is 17 ft-lb and I believe that one to be correct.

Or do you believe that it was pre-stripped by the last person who tightened that filler bolt? If so, who might that have been?

Enquiring minds want to know...

I was trying to torque to 17 ft-lb. I believe the idiot that stripped it out was me the last time I changed the oil. I blame my inexpensive Harbor Freight torque wrench. I remember last time I changed the oil that I had tightened past the "click". The click is so subtle on those wrenches and at only 17lbs I didn't notice it. I can't tell you how far past 17lbs I went, but it couldn't have been too much. I'm with HotRod. I've been changing oil for 30 years without a torque wrench and never had a problem. From now on, tighten until snug and call it good.

 

[Fred W]

Can you show us your torque wrench? Is it a 3/8" drive or 1/2" drive? Clicker or beam type?

More enquiring...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Can you show us your torque wrench? Is it a 3/8" drive or 1/2" drive? Clicker or beam type?
More enquiring...

And more importantly, inch lb or ft lb and if so, the actual range.

Its best to use a torque wrench where your target # is close to the middle

of the wrench's scale...

 

[Fred W]

Yeah, that is what I was getting at without saying so. Trying to hit 17 ft-lb with a 1/2" wrench that goes up to 150 (or more) means the accuracy at the low end is going to be very bad.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Heck, I have two 3/8" clickers (different ranges-one in inch lbs) one 1/2" clicker (higher range-ft lbs), one old, 1/2" drive, 0-?? beam wrench and I could still use another "lower" in the mid range where most fasteners are torqued too.

Short of the beam, they all get used...

A cheap wrench will bite you in the a$$. The money for a heli-coil repair could have been used for for the wrench and no headache...

 

[bgross]

"I take full responsibility for my [lack of] actions."

Somewhere between the "roaching" suggestions (which seem to me to be excellent 'on the road' repairs, avoiding getting bent over by a shop who knows you're in a pickle) and the "correct" repairs... Is the obvious, BEST, option:

Shop around for the best price, and buy a new pumpkin from a NOS 2014 "I'm thinking of Ann-Margaret when I'm riding her" Red Gen3 FJR. These pumpkins come firmly attached to the rest of the bike, so you get a warranty. For a few dollars more you can get the YES.

Problem solved.

Alas, I see that my perfect solution has arrived too late. That's okay. You can bookmark this thread and refer to this post in the event that you "accidentally" strip the oil pan drain bolt on your next change.

Or need new tires.

You're welcome.

 

[RaYzerman19]

It would be prudent to rig up a redneck torque wrench tester..........

 

[art miller]

Ever here the old saying, "put a sock in it?" What about simply putting a cork in it... for now? I'd be willing to bet it would work just fine even as a permanent fix. OK, laugh all ya want. But I'd bet a good amount of money that it would indeed fix the problem. It's not like the pumpkin creates any kind of pressure or flow that a good cork (or similar shaped rubber stopper) wouldn't stop with ease.
Or perhaps that universal oil drain plug idea listed above? Google search for a piccie. You've seen them: they're made of rubber, usually have a wing nut that cha tighten to lock em into the stripped threads of an automotive drain plug. They come in various different sizes. I'll bet there's one that'll fit.

Gary

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