Stripped slider bolt

[dcatwater]

So got all the electrical bugs worked out and you know what happened, yeah, I stripped out the 12X1.25 bolt that holds my motivation sliders (right side) on. I get the heli coil thing but has anyone used the time-sert widgets? Better than the heli coils?

Second question is do I need to drop the motor to repair this - or can it be done in place?

Three years with nary a hiccup and now this!

TIA,

Dave

 

[08FJR4ME]

T-serts are solid metal and take a different tool to install. they are also larger in size than a Helicoil insert. I usually go with the T-serts if I strip out a hellicoil. With the helicoil you may not have to drop the motor.

Good luck,

Dave

 

[lnewlf]

The price of Heli coils + aggravation makes the cost of a decent torque wrench very reasonable!

 

[dcatwater]

Got the plastic off (again) and found a very nice little spacer in the frame held in by a pinch bolt. After removal I gained plenty of room for a drill bit and to install a helicoil with out dropping the motor. Lots of meat in the engine mount to drill out as well. Got the helicoil on order (not one in that size to be found...closest one is in Portland?) and should be up and running by the end of the week.

Dave - thanks for the advice re: helicoil vs. t-sert

Inewlf - Have the torque wrench, didn't even get to the point that the bolt bottomed out, just kept spinning....

Thanks for the help,

Dave

 

[madmike2]

Dave, you're not the first and won't be the last.

God only knows why some threads "give way"...but he's not telling so we have to figure it out.

Thank goodness for your mechanical ability to repair it.

 

[08FJRAXB]

I did the same thing about two month ago. Time-sert is the only way to go. Heli coils can pull out. I ordered my kit form a guy in Arizona with the longer inserts. I think 1" 1/4. You do not need to remove the motor. Just remove the lower part of the fairing, remove the collars in the frame(held in by allen screw). Once these collars are removed it gives you plenty of room to work. To put the time-sert in takes a matter of minutes. Go on YouTube for tutorials to see how easy it is. I also used red lock tite for engines (heat resistant) when I put the insert in. Then I torqued the slider bolt to 40ftp. The longest part of the entire job was getting the lower part of the fairing off which wasn't difficult at all. Not a big job. I have checked to see if it has loosened up and it still has not. Like I said go to YouTube for the tutorials. If i can do it anyone can....

Hope this helps........

 

[RadioHowie]

I did the same thing about two month ago. Time-sert is the only way to go. Heli coils can pull out. I ordered my kit form a guy in Arizona with the longer inserts. I think 1" 1/4. You do not need to remove the motor. Just remove the lower part of the fairing, remove the collars in the frame(held in by allen screw). Once these collars are removed it gives you plenty of room to work. To put the time-sert in takes a matter of minutes. Go on YouTube for tutorials to see how easy it is. I also used red lock tite for engines (heat resistant) when I put the insert in. Then I torqued the slider bolt to 40ftp. The longest part of the entire job was getting the lower part of the fairing off which wasn't difficult at all. Not a big job. I have checked to see if it has loosened up and it still has not. Like I said go to YouTube for the tutorials. If i can do it anyone can....Hope this helps........

You're VERY lucky that it was a right-side motor mount that effed up. The left sides doesn't have those convenient collars to remove. Getting a time-sert or helicoil in the left side is a major ******.

Just remember, torque down the slider bolt before you torque down the two allen screws on the insert collar. The bolt should be torqued against the insert, NOT against the frame.

 

[mferriter]

McMaster-Carr sells threaded inserts with self locking adhesive on teh external threads. You need to do something to make sure the threaded insert doesn't move around.

 

[Duff]

I had to do the left side on my 05. I think I sweated a gallon while drilling it, but did so carefully and installed the helicoil without issue. It held for another 2 years... even when I high-sided the bike.

 

[dcatwater]

I did the same thing about two month ago. Time-sert is the only way to go. Heli coils can pull out. I ordered my kit form a guy in Arizona with the longer inserts. I think 1" 1/4. You do not need to remove the motor. Just remove the lower part of the fairing, remove the collars in the frame(held in by allen screw). Once these collars are removed it gives you plenty of room to work. To put the time-sert in takes a matter of minutes. Go on YouTube for tutorials to see how easy it is. I also used red lock tite for engines (heat resistant) when I put the insert in. Then I torqued the slider bolt to 40ftp. The longest part of the entire job was getting the lower part of the fairing off which wasn't difficult at all. Not a big job. I have checked to see if it has loosened up and it still has not. Like I said go to YouTube for the tutorials. If i can do it anyone can....Hope this helps........

You're VERY lucky that it was a right-side motor mount that effed up. The left sides doesn't have those convenient collars to remove. Getting a time-sert or helicoil in the left side is a major ******.

Just remember, torque down the slider bolt before you torque down the two allen screws on the insert collar. The bolt should be torqued against the insert, NOT against the frame.

Thanks for the heads up on the tightening sequence re: collar and frame - don't know that I would have done that....

 

[Grumpy]

In my opinion it's a bad design. You should not use that fine a thread in aluminum castings. Guaranteed to be a problem long range. Whatever you do put some No-seaze on the threads since you're putting steel in aluminum and there's likely to be moisture available given the location......sets up a little battery if you have the moisture and clean steel in contact with the aluminum.

 

[RadioHowie]

In my opinion it's a bad design. You should not use that fine a thread in aluminum castings. Guaranteed to be a problem long range. Whatever you do put some No-seaze on the threads since you're putting steel in aluminum and there's likely to be moisture available given the location......sets up a little battery if you have the moisture and clean steel in contact with the aluminum.

Gee, somehow I know EXAKERY what you mean!

Here's how I fixed mine....I tossed the stock bolt......

.....and replaced it with a battery!

 

[jerry1]

I put motavation sliders on my 06. I measured the bolts supplied with the sliders and found them to be .010 smaller in diameter than the stock bolts.This could lead to striping

 

[RZ350]

I put motavation sliders on my 06. I measured the bolts supplied with the sliders and found them to be .010 smaller in diameter than the stock bolts.This could lead to striping

The bolts supplied with the my Motovation sliders were undersize (dia undersize .010") AND the 1.25mm pitch was slightly off. I figured out there was a pitch problem because the bolt was super loose (probably because of the .010" undersize) as you started to thread them in, then they got real tight as the threads of the bolt started interfering with the threads of the hole. This was during a test fit of the bolt only in the hole, no slider. If the pitch doesn't match perfectly, it means the entire load of the bolt is passed through just a few threads. Of course, you might think its hard to measure 1.25mm between thread peaks, but if measure across 10 or 20 of them and divide the measurement by that number, you will easily see the problem. There was no way I was going to install them in that soft aluminum threaded hole and torque them down. The overloaded threads start giving way and it is like a domino effect.

I bought replacements at a hardware store. Someone told me Motovation has corrected their bolt issue since I bought them (2.5 years ago).

 

[dcatwater]

Finally got the heli coil - had to order it, apparently not a common size...bike is back together and running like a top again. Back on the road! Woot! Thanks again fo all the advice,

Dave