Stubborn Ignition Switch

[Bogus]

My 08's ignition started acting funny lately. When I put the key and try to turn on the ignition, it acts as if I don't have the key in quite all the way, and will not go to the on position until I fiddle with it some. It seems as though this happens only the first time that I insert the key. If I leave the key in the ignition switch after turning off, all is well on the next start. If this needs some lubrication, I am trying to decide if I should use a silcone based spray lube, or a graphite based one. The key has not been forced or bent previously. Any thoughts?

 

[wfooshee]

My key gets stubborn if I've been out in the rain sometimes. When I get the chance, I'll spray a little WD-40 out of the can into the ground, remove the tube and let the dribbles fall into the keyhole. I don't want to spray directly and get the splashback.

I've also tried just spraying the key and letting it be the applicator, but that doesn't seem to work as well.

 

[Fred W]

My (main) key is amazing.

I can start the bike and then remove it (while still in the run position) to open one of my side bags.

But it won't reliably operate the headstem lock. My other two keys will, but they don't have the quick release feature that my worn out primary key does.

 

[Silent]

I use Dri-Glide on all my locks. It's Moly/Graphite based and the liquid evaporates quickly. All my locks and ignition work smooth as silk.

 

[Bogus]

Thanks for the replys. when I got home from work I used WD40 with the tube, and GENTLY squirted some in the lock while holding the slot open with the key. Inserted and removed the key a few times, and it seems to work OK now. I will try some of the Dri-Glide the next time. Is that stuff available at the local hardware store? Ive never heard of it before.

 

[spalkin]

You definitely want to use a graphite based lubricant. There's a product available about everywhere called Lock-Eze, one small can will last you a lifetime.

Never mistake WD-40 for a lubricant. It's a solvent propelled with propane. If you spray it into anything to lubricate it, all you're doing is washing all the lube out of it.

When I was a kid I made the mistake of using it on my car door hinge. Within eight months the hinge was shot and the door was sagging.

The only thing WD-40 is good for is taking rust off old saw blades, and it doesn't even do that well.

The best lube for just about anything I've found is Winzer Poly Lube 250. It goes in like penetrating oil but then sets up to a thick, high temp lubricant. I've used it on everything from rear sets to storm doors.

 

[bramfrank]

Your key may be slightly bent. BTDT

 

[artistic rider]

Your key may be slightly bent. BTDT

+1. My key was so slightly bent you could barely see it. I carefully staightened with pliers and it works perfectly.

 

[HaulinAshe]

STOP! Back away from the cans of spray lubricant!

Anything you spray into the ignition switch assembly will work its way to the bottom where the electrical contacts live. There's a host of folks experiencing issues with switch failures both temporary and some permanent. I highly recommend you restrict what you spray into the switch to cleaners/lubricators made specifically for electronic components. You can buy them at most every automotive supply.

I've used graphite, WD-40, spray silicone, Tri-Flow lube and many others over the years on lock assemblies. I'm not trying to say anything negative about lubing lock assemblies with any of them. I'm saying there's an electrical switch assembly that inherits whatever you spray into the switch assembly, no matter how careful you are. The electrical parts need special care.

 

[jekirby]

Your key may be slightly bent. BTDT

+1. My key was so slightly bent you could barely see it. I carefully staightened with pliers and it works perfectly.

Same here. Every time I open the side cased, I catch myself putting a little stress on the key and bending it subtly. When the ignition starts acting lke you pointed out, then I straighten the key and all is right witht the world.

Also if you start mixing dry lube with wd40 and the like before the switch is completly dry, then you end up wth thick gunk in you switch that may do more harm in the long run.

 

[Bogus]

I will be using a graphite based lubricant in the future. It will not be anytime soon, so there shouldn't be any concern about mixing of unlike lubricants since the WD40 spray will eventually dry leaving only the silicone behind. The key is not bent as far as I can tell. And since I have applied the WD40, the switch works like new.

And after years of believing that WD40 was a silicone based product, I finally read the can: "contains petroleum disstilates". Changes my opinion of this product for sure!

 

[Zorlac]

The only drawback to graphite based lubricants is that graphite will conduct electricity, not real well, but if it builds up sufficiently on the white plastic insulators of the ignition switch innards, it might cause eventual problems.

I'd stick with silicone or Teflon based lubes.