Switch And Wiring Options For Aux Lights?

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skyway

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As I understand it, there are a hundred different ways to wire aux lights up, but here is what I would like to do.

I scored a set of Hella FF50's and would like to have 3 different lighting options.

option 1: aux lights off permanently regardless of hi/low beam switch position.

option 2: aux lights on permanently(only when ignition is on), regardless of hi/low beam switch position.

option 3:aux lights only on when hi beam switch is on.

Anyone done this and have a wiring diagram that is easy to understand?

Options for durable switch?

 
I'm having difficulty trying to understand why you'd want so many configs with them. KISS demands a straightforward application, in my case the relay is actuated by the high beam side of the headlamps. I can't imagine using them alone or with the low beams, they work well with the high beams.

 
I'm having difficulty trying to understand why you'd want so many configs with them.  KISS demands a straightforward application, in my case the relay is actuated by the high beam side of the headlamps.  I can't imagine using them alone or with the low beams, they work well with the high beams.

I would like the different options because I ride with a passenger, at night, with heated vests etc, and need to conserve watts. The option for aux lights on with low beams would be for daytime riding. This would allow me to still flash the FJR lights if the need arises, while leaving the aux lights permanently on.

 
I have Hella's and even in the daytime they are pretty damn bright. You WILL be blinding oncoming vehicles, not a good thing when they're coming head on at ya!! In Cali the law requires aftermarket driving lights to be covered, although no one seems to do it. I've had friends with 4x4's ticketed for this.

The best way to wire them is independent of the headlights IMHO. If the headlight bulbs blow out or the fuse, or a wiring problem, you need backup lights independent of the stock circuit., Yes it would be nice to toggle the high beam circuit and light up the Hella's , but in the middle of Nevada's blackness you need independent options if something should go wrong.

Your idea of daytime running lights is part of the reason I run Piaa fogs during the day , and light up the Hella's when darkness is all around, they simply cannot be on around other traffic.

 
If you wire them into the running lights lead with a switch to the lights you can have them off or on and independent of the hi/low beams. Thats how my Roadies are wired. i.e.-they are either off or on and independent of the hi/low beam. I suggest a relay coming off of the battery.

 
If you wire them into the running lights lead with a switch to the lights you can have them off or on and independent of the hi/low beams.  Thats how my Roadies are wired.  i.e.-they are either off or on and independent of the hi/low beam.  I suggest a relay coming off of the battery.
So if they are wired this way, can I still get them to turn on and off with or without the hi/low beam switch? I would like the option of turning them on/off at night without having to toggle 2 switches.

 
I hooked up my PHIDs this way and it works great. I used a relay and an electricalconnection 3 position illuminated switch. Looks kool too. In my case, power comes either directly from a relay or via a bus. The bus is powered only when the engine is running and relay power only works when the brights are on.

I don't have a schematic, but I can try to find my notes if helpful. Here's the switch I used:

https://www.electricalconnection.com/power-...ch_high-amp.htm

I looked high and low the the koolest looking weatherproof switch around and this is what I settled on and their prices are very fair. When my foot heals a bit I'll post some photos. This switch installation is a bit unusual--on the left lower fairing panel along with heatrollers for grips and heated clothing. B)

 
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Sounds to me like you need a DTDP switch like this one. Basically this is a switch where 'up' is one power source, 'down' is another source, and center is off. You would wire the switch so that one of the sources comes off your battery (or power strip) and the other comes from a relay that is activated by your high beams. This should give you the options your looking for with one switch.

 
Sounds to me like you need a DTDP switch like this one.  Basically this is a switch where 'up' is one power source, 'down' is another source, and center is off.  You would wire the switch so that one of the sources comes off your battery (or power strip) and the other comes from a relay that is activated by your high beams.  This should give you the options your looking for with one switch.
Sounds like what I'm looking for. Is this type of switch ok out in the elements?

 
Skyway, this is easy.

What you need is a three position SPDT (single pole double throw) switch.

You will need a relay to power the lights. Ground the negative side of the relay coil and the GND side of the lights. Put one of the relay's switched terminals to +12V (via fuseblock) and the other switched terminal to the +12V side of the lights. Now, connect the +12V side of the relay to the center teminal for the SPDT switch. Connect one outside terminal to +12V (same fuseblock will do). Connect the other outside terminal to headlight high-beam switch (BLUE with BLACK stripe at switch or GREEN with BLACK stripe at HI/LOW beam relay).

It will now work as you want. With the switch in the center position, no +12V connection is made to the light relay and they stay off. With the switch on in the first direction, it will tie +12V to the relay full time and the lights will be on no matter what. With the switch in the second direction, the +12V signal will only pass through the switch when the hi-beam switch is on.

May I recommend a waterproof switch and boot from DigiKey? I don't have the M/N's off the top of my head, but if you really cry I will look them up. Here they are:

P8071630.JPG


Good luck!

-BD

 
Sounds like what I'm looking for. Is this type of switch ok out in the elements?
Umm... probably not. BTW Brundog is right, you need a SPDT switch not a DPDT.

If you want to find one locally, you can check out this one at Autozone. They also have a switch boot to protect toggle switches you can try.

 
Skyway, this is easy.
What you need is a three position SPDT (single pole double throw) switch.

You will need a relay to power the lights. Ground the negative side of the relay coil and the GND side of the lights. Put one of the relay's switched terminals to +12V (via fuseblock) and the other switched terminal to the +12V side of the lights. Now, connect the +12V side of the relay to the center teminal for the SPDT switch. Connect one outside terminal to +12V (same fuseblock will do). Connect the other outside terminal to headlight high-beam switch (BLUE with BLACK stripe at switch or GREEN with BLACK stripe at HI/LOW beam relay).

It will now work as you want. With the switch in the center position, no +12V connection is made to the light relay and they stay off. With the switch on in the first direction, it will tie +12V to the relay full time and the lights will be on no matter what. With the switch in the second direction, the +12V signal will only pass through the switch when the hi-beam switch is on.

May I recommend a waterproof switch and boot from DigiKey? I don't have the M/N's off the top of my head, but if you really cry I will look them up. Here they are:

P8071630.JPG


Good luck!

-BD
Easy for you maybe! :eek:

OK I have been a got a 3 way SPDT switch. Now on my ff50 lights there are 3 available wires coming off the supplied hella relay for connection:

red - positive

black - negative

green - ground

The other blue wire is the positive which splits into 2 for both lamps. There is also a black that splits into 2 for both negatives of the lamps. I do have switched power via the Warchild switched 12v barrier strip, this has a relay in line BTW.

Put one of the relay's switched terminals to +12V (via fuseblock) and the other switched terminal to the +12V side of the lights.
I'm not quite following this instuction here, as I only have 1 red positive wire coming off the supplied hella relay.

Now, connect the +12V side of the relay to the center teminal for the SPDT switch.
Not quite sure here either.

Connect the other outside terminal to headlight high-beam switch (BLUE with BLACK stripe at switch or GREEN with BLACK stripe at HI/LOW beam relay).
Where are these wires located?

 
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Please ride your FJR up here to Washington and let me install this for you, before you burn your bike to the ground! Please. :lol:

Here, let's muddy the water further. Take a gander at this simple toggle switch schematic I did up for my PIAAs long ago (this uses a double-pole, double-throw, center-off toggle switch, but it's the same for a SPDT toggle switch described above):

piaa_switch.gif


Instead of the PIAA relay, the center wire goes to "signal input" of the relay you will use to power the Hella lamps. Connect this line to Terminal 85 on your Hella relay. (Thus, Terminal 86 will connect to ground).

The top terminal on your toggle switch connects to any 12v "switched" source... which is "hot" any time the ignition is on: running lights, horn power, whatver.

The bottom toggle switch terminal connect to your high-beam source... I connected right to the left headlight high beam circuit, myself.

Confused yet? :blink:

 
Skyway, as I understand it you should arrive at WC's house with a fair amount of beer if you expect to have this wiring done...

 
That makes a lot more sense. No fires yet btw. :D

The bottom toggle switch terminal connect to your high-beam source... I connected right to the left headlight high beam circuit, myself.
What color wire would this be? There are three wires in the harness that go to the left headlight bulb.

Black

Yellow

Green

 
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Skyway, get away from the idea of "colors". The color only tells you which wire is which signal according to the instructions. It's the signal they carry that counts.

If I can get a moment to make you a schematic, I will.

-BD

 
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