FJRocket
Doctor Throckenstein !!!
After my cruise install, I started messing with Randy's horn harness and a lot of other stuff. Looking back through other threads, I decided to change a couple things.
With the install of Randy's harness, I freed up some switched power on the left side of my AE. I decided to connect my Blue Sea 5025 to this connecter. I had originally powered this wire direct to the battery. No thanks, I want switched power to the fuse block. Randy's harness worked great, btw, and was just the right length all around. Well Done Randy!
I used some aircraft wire to run the positive feed from the left horn continuous 12+ volt connecter. It snaked all around to the right side of the bike, then back to the BS5025 under the seat. That fuse block is grounded direct to the battery.
When I had the left side open, I was contemplating how I would ever use the stupid freakin' outlet inside the glove box. Ok, I have a cell phone, and I can throw it in there on the charger, I guess. Like I ever use the phone....
I decided to splice into the glove box socket and use that line to feed an outlet up front for some gizmos, like XM and X50.
I checked the socket wire and felt a plug about 6 or 7 inches downline, deep in the bottom of the cowl. I couldn't get the plug undone easily, and reconnecting it would be nearing impossinble working from the top. The socket in the gb is held in by a notched ring nut. I removed the nut. Then I got under the cowl and took the black panel off (3 phillips and 2 rivets (push pin... pop out retainers)). The plug to the socket is just a black and a brown with yellow strip wire into a plug. I released the plug and took out the whole shebang.
I didn't know how I was going to connect my gizmos, so I decided to splice in a 2 wire "trailer plug". I used a plug with a good foot or more of excess wire. I can always cut it down later, or change connecters. I peeled back the sheath and then spliced in the trailer plug wires to the socket wires. Nope, no fuses. Yep, it's risky. But my XM and X50 and cell phone charger don't draw that much power. (I'll put in a totally separate Jastek plug for my Widders when it gets colder....) Plus the plugs for the gizmos have their own fuses.
For now, I'm just going to use a Wally World splitter socket into another socket that plugs into the "trailer plug". I tucked thit all into the cowling. Later on, I may hard wire to the fuse block, or hardwire up front. Time will tell. When peeps stop shooting bottle rockets and it dries up, I'll test ride the works, and go from there.
So, as with earlier versions of the FJR, with aftermarket horns installed, the left horn harness is a good source for switched power. And with 2006 FJR's, you can splice into the brown/yellow wire on the glove box socket for even more switched power. Of course there's always the parking light wires. And under the seat on the left there is an 8 plug connecter that has a brown/white wire that can also be used for switched power. Lot's of choices for tapping in and getting your gizmos fired up.
With the install of Randy's harness, I freed up some switched power on the left side of my AE. I decided to connect my Blue Sea 5025 to this connecter. I had originally powered this wire direct to the battery. No thanks, I want switched power to the fuse block. Randy's harness worked great, btw, and was just the right length all around. Well Done Randy!
I used some aircraft wire to run the positive feed from the left horn continuous 12+ volt connecter. It snaked all around to the right side of the bike, then back to the BS5025 under the seat. That fuse block is grounded direct to the battery.
When I had the left side open, I was contemplating how I would ever use the stupid freakin' outlet inside the glove box. Ok, I have a cell phone, and I can throw it in there on the charger, I guess. Like I ever use the phone....
I decided to splice into the glove box socket and use that line to feed an outlet up front for some gizmos, like XM and X50.
I checked the socket wire and felt a plug about 6 or 7 inches downline, deep in the bottom of the cowl. I couldn't get the plug undone easily, and reconnecting it would be nearing impossinble working from the top. The socket in the gb is held in by a notched ring nut. I removed the nut. Then I got under the cowl and took the black panel off (3 phillips and 2 rivets (push pin... pop out retainers)). The plug to the socket is just a black and a brown with yellow strip wire into a plug. I released the plug and took out the whole shebang.
I didn't know how I was going to connect my gizmos, so I decided to splice in a 2 wire "trailer plug". I used a plug with a good foot or more of excess wire. I can always cut it down later, or change connecters. I peeled back the sheath and then spliced in the trailer plug wires to the socket wires. Nope, no fuses. Yep, it's risky. But my XM and X50 and cell phone charger don't draw that much power. (I'll put in a totally separate Jastek plug for my Widders when it gets colder....) Plus the plugs for the gizmos have their own fuses.
For now, I'm just going to use a Wally World splitter socket into another socket that plugs into the "trailer plug". I tucked thit all into the cowling. Later on, I may hard wire to the fuse block, or hardwire up front. Time will tell. When peeps stop shooting bottle rockets and it dries up, I'll test ride the works, and go from there.
So, as with earlier versions of the FJR, with aftermarket horns installed, the left horn harness is a good source for switched power. And with 2006 FJR's, you can splice into the brown/yellow wire on the glove box socket for even more switched power. Of course there's always the parking light wires. And under the seat on the left there is an 8 plug connecter that has a brown/white wire that can also be used for switched power. Lot's of choices for tapping in and getting your gizmos fired up.
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